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in another； a parcel of ale…house benches； in a third； a puppet…show
representation of a tin cascade； in a fourth； a gloomy cave
of a circular form； like a sepulchral vault half lighted； in a
fifth； a scanty flip of grass…plat； that would not afford pasture
sufficient for an ass's colt。 The walks； which nature seems to
have intended for solitude； shade； and silence； are filled with
crowds of noisy people； sucking up the nocturnal rheums of an
aguish climate； and through these gay scenes； a few lamps glimmer
like so many farthing candles。
When I see a number of well dressed people； of both sexes；
sitting on the covered benches； exposed to the eyes of the mob；
and； which is worse； to the cold； raw； night…air； devouring
sliced beef； and swilling port； and punch； and cyder； I can't
help compassionating their temerity； white I despise their want
of taste and decorum； but； when they course along those damp and
gloomy walks； or crowd together upon the wet gravel； without any
other cover than the cope of Heaven； listening to a song； which
one half of them cannot possibly hear； how can I help supposing
they are actually possessed by a spirit； more absurd and
pernicious than any thing we meet with in the precincts of
Bedlam？ In all probability； the proprietors of this； and other
public gardens of inferior note； in the skirts of the metropolis；
are； in some shape； connected with the faculty of physic； and the
company of undertakers； for； considering that eagerness in the
pursuit of what is called pleasure； which now predominates
through every rank and denomination of life； I am persuaded that
more gouts； rheumatisms； catarrhs； and consumptions are caught in
these nocturnal pastimes； sub dio； than from all the risques and
accidents to which a life of toil and danger is exposed。
These； and other observations； which I have made in this
excursion； will shorten my stay at London； and send me back with
a double relish to my solitude and mountains； but I shall return
by a different route from that which brought me to town。 I have
seen some old friends； who constantly resided in this virtuous
metropolis； but they are so changed in manners and disposition；
that we hardly know or care for one another In our journey from
Bath； my sister Tabby provoked me into a transport of passion；
during which； like a man who has drank himself pot…valiant； I
talked to her in such a stile of authority and resolution； as
produced a most blessed effect。 She and her dog have been
remarkably quiet and orderly ever since this expostulation。 How
long this agreeable calm will last； Heaven above knows I flatter
myself； the exercise of travelling has been of service to my
health； a circumstance which encourages me to…proceed in my
projected expedition to the North。 But I must； in the mean time；
for the benefit and amusement of my pupils； explore the depths of
this chaos； this misshapen and monstrous capital； without head or
tail； members or proportion。
Thomas was so insolent to my sister on the road； that I was
obliged to turn him off abruptly； betwixt Chippenham and
Marlborough； where our coach was overturned。 The fellow was
always sullen and selfish； but； if he should return to the
country； you may give him a character for honesty and sobriety；
and； provided he behaves with proper respect to the family； let
him have a couple of
guineas in the name of
Yours always；
MATT。 BRAMBLE
LONDON； May 20。
To Miss LAETITIA WILLIS； at Gloucester。
MY DEAR LETTY；
Inexpressible was the pleasure I received from yours of the 25th；
which was last night put into my hands by Mrs Brentford； the
milliner； from Gloucester I rejoice to hear that my worthy
governess is in good health； and； still more； that she no longer
retains any displeasure towards her poor Liddy。 I am sorry you
have lost the society of the agreeable Miss Vaughn； but； I hope
you won't have cause much longer to regret the departure of your
school companions； as I make no doubt but your parents will； in a
little time； bring you into the world； where you are so well
qualified to make a distinguished figure。 When that is the case；
I flatter myself you and I shall meet again； and be happy
together； and even improve the friendship which we contracted in
our tender years。 This at least I can promise It shall not be for
the want of my utmost endeavours； if our intimacy does not
continue for life。
About five days ago we arrived in London； after an easy journey
from Bath； during which； however； we were overturned； and met
with some other little incidents； which； had like to have
occasioned a misunderstanding betwixt my uncle and aunt； but now；
thank God； they are happily reconciled： we live in harmony
together； and every day make parties to see the wonders of this
vast metropolis； which； however； I cannot pretend to describe；
for I have not as yet seen one hundredth part of its curiosities；
and I am quite in a maze of admiration。
The cities of London and Westminster are spread out into an
incredible extent。 The streets； squares； rows； lanes； and alleys；
are innumerable。 Palaces； public buildings； and churches rise in
every quarter； and； among these last； St Paul's appears with the
most astonishing pre…eminence。 They say it is not so large as； St
Peter's at Rome； but； for my own part； I can have no idea of any
earthly temple more grand and magnificent。
But even these superb objects are not so striking as the crowds
of people that swarm in the streets。 I at first imagined that
some great assembly was just dismissed； and wanted to stand aside
till the multitude should pass； but this human tide continues to
flow； without interruption or abatement； from morn till night。
Then there is such an infinity of gay equipages； coaches；
chariots； chaises； and other carriages； continually rolling and
shifting before your eyes； that one's head grows giddy looking at
them； and the imagination is quite confounded with splendour and
variety。 Nor is the prospect by water less grand and astonishing
than that by land： you see three stupendous bridges； joining the
opposite banks of a broad； deep； and rapid river； so vast； so
stately； so elegant； that they seem to be the work of the giants；
betwixt them； the whole surface of the Thames is covered with
small vessels； barges； boats； and wherries； passing to and fro；
and below the three bridges； such a prodigious forest of masts；
for miles together； that you would think all the ships in the
universe were here assembled。 All that you read of wealth and
grandeur in the Arabian Nights' Entertainment； and the Persian
Tales； concerning Bagdad； Diarbekir； Damascus； Ispahan； and
Samarkand； is here realized。
Ranelagh looks like the inchanted palace of a genie； adorned with
the most exquisite performances of painting； carving； and
gilding； enlightened with a thousand golden lamps； that emulate
the noon…day sun； crowded with the great； the rich； the gay； the
happy； and the fair； glittering with cloth of gold and silver；
lace； embroidery； and precious stones。 While these exulting sons
and daughters of felicity tread this round of pleasure； or regale
in different parties； and separate lodges； with fine imperial tea
and other delicious refreshments； their ears are entertained with
the most ravishing delights of music； both instrumental and
vocal。 There I heard the famous Tenducci； a thing from Italy It
looks for all the world like a man； though they say it is not。
The voice； to be sure； is neither man's nor woman's； but it is
more melodious than either； and it warbled so divinely； that；
while I listened； I really thought myself in paradise。
At nine o'clock； in a charming moonlight evening； we embarked at
Ranelagh for Vauxhall； in a wherry so light and slender that we
looked like so many fairies sailing in a nutshell。 My uncle；
being apprehensive of catching cold upon the water； went round in
the coach； and my aunt would have accompanied him； but he would
not suffer me to go by water if she went by land； and therefore
she favoured us with her company； as she perceived I had a
curiosity to make this agreeable voyage After all； the vessel
was sufficiently loaded； for； besides the waterman； there was my
brother Jery； and a friend of his； one Mr Barton； a country
gentleman； of a good fortune； who had dined at our house The
pleasure of this little excursion was； however； damped； by my
being sadly frighted at our landing； where there was a terrible
confusion of wherries and a crowd of people bawling； and
swearing； and quarrelling； nay； a parcel of ugly…looking fellows
came running into the water； and laid hold of our boat with great
violence； to pull it a…shore； nor would they quit their hold till
my brother struck one of them over the head with his cane。 But
this flutter was fully recompensed by the pleasures of Vauxhall；
which I no sooner entered； than I was dazzled and confounded with
the variety of beauties that rushed all at once upon my eye。
Image to yourself； my dear Letty； a spacious garden； part laid
out in delightful walks； bounded with high hedges and trees； and
paved with gravel； part exhibiting a wonderful assemblage of the
most picturesque and strik