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and twenty habitable islands； some of them stocked with deer； and
all of them covered with wood； containing immense quantities of
delicious fish； salmon； pike； trout； perch； flounders； eels； and
powans； the last a delicate kind of fresh…water herring peculiar
to this lake； and finally communicating with the sea； by sending
off the Leven； through which all those species （except the powan）
make their exit and entrance occasionally？
Inclosed I send you the copy of a little ode to this river； by Dr
Smollett； who was born on the banks of it； within two miles of
the place where I am now writing。 It is at least picturesque and
accurately descriptive； if it has no other merit。 There is an
idea of truth in an agreeable landscape taken from nature； which
pleases me more than the gayest fiction which the most luxuriant
fancy can display。
I have other remarks to make； but as my paper is full； I must
reserve them till the next occasion。 I shall only observe at
present； that I am determined to penetrate at least forty miles
into the Highlands； which now appear like a vast fantastic vision
in the clouds； inviting the approach of
Yours always；
MATT。 BRAMBLE
CAMERON； Aug。 28。
ODE TO LEVEN…WATER
On Leven's banks； while free to rove；
And tune the rural pipe to love；
I envied not the happiest swain
That ever trod th' Arcadian plain。
Pure stream！ in whose transparent wave
My youthful limbs I wont to lave；
No torrents stain thy limpid source；
No rocks impede thy dimpling course；
That sweetly warbles o'er its bed；
With white； round； polish'd pebbles spread；
While； lightly pois'd； the scaly brood
In myriads cleave thy crystal flood；
The springing trout in speckled pride；
The salmon； monarch of the tide；
The ruthless pike； intent on war；
The silver eel； and motled par。*
Devolving from thy parent lake；
A charming maze thy waters make；
By bow'rs of birch； and groves of pine；
And hedges flow'r'd with eglantine。
Still on thy banks so gayly green；
May num'rous herds and flocks be seen；
And lasses chanting o'er the pail；
And shepherds piping in the dale；
And ancient faith that knows no guile；
And industry imbrown'd with toil；
And hearts resolv'd； and hands prepar'd；
The blessings they enjoy to guard。
* The par is a small fish； not unlike the smelt； which it rivals
in delicacy and flavour。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR DOCTOR；
If I was disposed to be critical； I should say this house of
Cameron is too near the lake； which approaches； on one side； to
within six or seven yards of the window。 It might have been
placed in a higher site； which would have afforded a more
extensive prospect and a drier atmosphere； but this imperfection
is not chargeable on the present proprietor； who purchased it
ready built； rather than be at the trouble of repairing his own
family…house of Bonhill； which stands two miles from hence on the
Leven； so surrounded with plantation； that it used to be known by
the name of the Mavis （or thrush） Nest。 Above that house is a
romantic glen or clift of a mountain； covered with hanging woods
having at bottom a stream of fine water that forms a number of
cascades in its descent to join the Leven； so that the scene is
quite enchanting。 A captain of a man of war； who had made the
circuit of the globe with Mr Anson； being conducted to this glen；
exclaimed； 'Juan Fernandez； by God！'
Indeed； this country would be a perfect paradise； if it was not；
like Wales； cursed with a weeping climate； owing to the same
cause in both； the neighbourhood of high mountains； and a
westerly situation； exposed to the vapours of the Atlantic ocean。
This air； however； notwithstanding its humidity； is so healthy；
that the natives are scarce ever visited by any other disease
than the smallpox； and certain cutaneous evils； which are the
effects of dirty living； the great and general reproach of the
commonalty of this kingdom。 Here are a great many living
monuments of longaevity； and among the rest a person； whom I
treat with singular respect； as a venerable druid； who has lived
near ninety years； without pain or sickness； among oaks of his
own planting。 He was once proprietor of these lands； but being
of a projecting spirit； some of his schemes miscarried； and he
was obliged to part with his possession； which hath shifted hands
two or three times since that period； but every succeeding
proprietor hath done every thing in his power； to make his old
age easy and comfortable。 He has a sufficiency to procure the
necessaries of life； and he and his old woman reside in a small
convenient farm…house； having a little garden which he cultivates
with his own hands。 This ancient couple live in great health；
peace； and harmony； and； knowing no wants； enjoy the perfection
of content。 Mr Smollet calls him the admiral； because he insists
upon steering his pleasure…boat upon the lake； and he spends most
of his time in ranging through the woods； which he declares he
enjoys as much as if they were still his own property I asked
him the other day； if he was never sick； and he answered； Yes；
he had a slight fever the year before the union。 If he was not
deaf； I should take much pleasure in his conversation； for he is
very intelligent； and his memory is surprisingly retentive These
are the happy effects of temperance； exercise； and good nature
Notwithstanding all his innocence； however； he was the cause of
great perturbation to my man Clinker； whose natural superstition
has been much injured； by the histories of witches； fairies；
ghosts； and goblins； which he has heard in this country On the
evening after our arrival； Humphry strolled into the wood； in the
course of his meditation； and all at once the admiral stood
before him； under the shadow of a spreading oak。 Though the
fellow is far from being timorous in cases that are not supposed
preternatural； he could not stand the sight of this apparition；
but ran into the kitchen； with his hair standing on end； staring
wildly； and deprived of utterance。 Mrs Jenkins； seeing him in
this condition； screamed aloud； 'Lord have mercy upon us； he has
seen something！' Mrs Tabitha was alarmed； and the whole house in
confusion。 When he was recruited with a dram； I desired him to
explain the meaning of all this agitation； and； with some
reluctance； he owned he had seen a spirit； in the shape of an old
man with a white beard； a black cap； and a plaid night…gown。 He
was undeceived by the admiral in person； who； coming in at this
juncture； appeared to be a creature of real flesh and blood。
Do you know how we fare in this Scottish paradise？ We make free
with our landlord's mutton； which is excellent； his poultry…yard；
his garden； his dairy； and his cellar； which are all well stored。
We have delicious salmon； pike； trout； perch； par； &c。 at the
door； for the taking。 The Frith of Clyde； on the other side of
the hill； supplies us with mullet； red and grey； cod； mackarel；
whiting； and a variety of sea…fish； including the finest fresh
herrings I ever tasted。 We have sweet； juicy beef； and tolerable
veal； with delicate bread
from the little town of Dunbritton； and plenty of partridge；
growse； heath cock； and other game in presents。
We have been visited by all the gentlemen in the neighbourhood；
and they have entertained us at their houses； not barely with
hospitality； but with such marks of cordial affection； as one
would wish to find among near relations； after an absence of many
years。
I told you； in my last； I had projected an excursion to the
Highlands； which project I have now happily executed； under the
auspices of Sir George Colquhoun； a colonel in the Dutch service；
who offered himself as our conductor on this occasion。 Leaving
our women at Cameron； to the care and inspection of Lady H C；
we set out on horseback for Inverary； the county town of Argyle；
and dined on the road with the Laird of Macfarlane； the greatest
genealogist I ever knew in any country； and perfectly acquainted
with all the antiquities of Scotland。
The Duke of Argyle has an old castle in Inverary； where he
resides when he is in Scotland； and hard by is the shell of a
noble Gothic palace； built by the last duke； which； when
finished； will be a great ornament to this part of the Highlands。
As for Inverary； it is a place of very little importance。
This country is amazingly wild； especially towards the mountains；
which are heaped upon the backs of one another； making a most
stupendous appearance of savage nature； with hardly any signs of
cultivation； or even of population。 All is sublimity； silence；
and solitude。 The people live together in glens or bottoms； where
they are sheltered from the cold and storms of winter： but there
is a margin of plain ground spread along the sea side； which is
well inhabited and improved by the arts of husbandry； and this I
take to be one of the most agreeable tracts of the whole island；
the sea not only keeps it warm； and supplies it with fish； but
affords one of the most ravishing prospects in the whole world； I
mean the appearance of the Hebrides； or Western Islands to the
number of three hundred； scattered as far as the eye can reach；
in the most agreeable confusion。 As the soil