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we visited the adjacent islands of Ila； Jura； Mull； and Icomkill。
In the first； we saw the remains of a castle； built in a lake；
where Macdonald； lord or king of the isles； formerly resided。
Jura is famous for having given birth to one Mackcrain； who lived
one hundred and eighty years in one house； and died in the reign
of Charles the Second。 Mull affords several bays； where there is
safe anchorage： in one of which； the Florida； a ship of the
Spanish armada； was blown up by one of Mr Smollett's ancestors
About forty years ago； John duke of Argyle is said to have
consulted the Spanish registers； by which it appeared； that this
ship had the military chest on board He employed experienced
divers to examine the wreck； and they found the hull of the
vessel still entire； but so covered with sand； that they could
not make their way between decks； however； they picked up several
pieces of plate； that were scattered about in the bay； and a
couple of fine brass cannon。
Icolmkill； or Iona； is a small island which St Columba chose for
his habitation It was respected for its sanctity； and college or
seminary of ecclesiastics Part of its church is still standing；
with the tombs of several Scottish； Irish； and Danish sovereigns；
who were here interred These islanders are very bold and
dexterous watermen； consequently the better adapted to the
fishery： in their manners they are less savage and impetuous than
their countrymen on the continent； and they speak the Erse or
Gaelick in its greatest purity。
Having sent round our horses by land； we embarked in the distinct
of Cowal； for Greenock； which is a neat little town； on the other
side of the Frith； with a curious harbour formed by three stone
jetties； carried out a good way into the sea Newport…Glasgow is
such another place； about two miles higher up。 Both have a face of
business and plenty； and are supported entirely by the shipping
of Glasgow； of which I counted sixty large vessels in these
harbours Taking boat again at Newport； we were in less than an
hour landed on the other side； within two short miles of our
head…quarters； where we found our women in good health and
spirits。 They had been two days before joined by Mr。 Smollett and
his lady； to whom we have such obligations as I cannot mention；
even to you； without blushing。
To…morrow we shall bid adieu to the Scotch Arcadia； and begin our
progress to the southward； taking our way by Lanerk and
Nithsdale； to the west borders of England。 I have received so
much advantage and satisfaction from this tour； that if my health
suffers no revolution in the winter； I believe I shall be tempted
to undertake another expedition to the Northern extremity of
Caithness； unencumbered by those impediments which now clog the
heels of；
Yours；
MATT。 BRAMBLE
CAMERON； Sept。 6。
To Miss LAETITIA WILLIS； at Gloucester。
MY DEAREST LETTY；
Never did poor prisoner long for deliverance； more than I have
longed for an opportunity to disburthen my cares into your
friendly bosom； and the occasion which now presents itself； is
little less than miraculous Honest Saunders Macawly； the
travelling Scotchman； who goes every year to Wales； is now at
Glasgow； buying goods； and coming to pay his respects to our
family； has undertaken to deliver this letter into your own hand
We have been six weeks in Scotland； and seen the principal towns
of the kingdom； where we have been treated with great civility
The people are very courteous； and the country being exceedingly
romantic； suits my turn and inclinations I contracted some
friendships at Edinburgh； which is a large and lofty city； full
of gay company； and； in particular； commenced an intimate
correspondence with one miss Rtn； an amiable young lady of my
own age； whose charms seemed to soften； and even to subdue the
stubborn heart of my brother Jery； but he no sooner left the
place than he relapsed into his former insensibility I feel；
however； that this indifference is not the family constitution I
never admitted but one idea of love； and that has taken such root
in my heart； as to be equally proof against all the pulls of
discretion； and the frosts of neglect。
Dear Letty！ I had an alarming adventure at the hunters ball in
Edinburgh While I sat discoursing with a friend in a corner； all
at once the very image of Wilson stood before me； dressed exactly
as he was in the character of Aimwell！ It was one Mr Gordon； whom
I had not seen before Shocked at the sudden apparition； I
fainted away； and threw the whole assembly in confusion However；
the cause of my disorder remained a secret to every body but my
brother； who was likewise struck with the resemblance； and
scolded after we came home I am very sensible of Jery's
affection； and know he spoke as well with a view to my own
interest and happiness； as in regard to the honour of the family；
but I cannot bear to have my wounds probed severely I was not so
much affected by the censure he passed upon my own indiscretion；
as with the reflection he made on the conduct of Wilson。 He
observed； that if he was really the gentleman he pretended to be；
and harboured nothing but honourable designs； he would have
vindicated his pretensions in the face of day This remark made a
deep impression upon my mind I endeavoured to conceal my
thoughts； and this endeavour had a bad effect upon my health and
spirits； so it was thought necessary that I should go to the
Highlands； and drink the goat…milk…whey。
We went accordingly to Lough Lomond； one of the most enchanting
spots in the whole world； and what with this remedy； which I had
every morning fresh from the mountains； and the pure air； and
chearful company； I have recovered my flesh and appetite； though
there is something still at bottom； which it is not in the power
of air； exercise； company； or medicine to remove These incidents
would not touch me so nearly； if I had a sensible confidant to
sympathize with my affliction； and comfort me with wholesome
advice I have nothing of this kind； except Win Jenkins； who is
really a good body in the main； but very ill qualified for such
an office The poor creature is weak in her nerves； as well as in
her understanding； otherwise I might have known the true name and
character of that unfortunate youth But why do I call him
unfortunate？ perhaps the epithet is more applicable to me for
having listened to the false professions of But； hold！ I have as
yet no right； and sure I have no inclination to believe any thing
to the prejudice of his honour In that reflection I shall still
exert my patience。 As for Mrs Jenkins； she herself is really an
object of compassion Between vanity； methodism； and love； her
head is almost turned。 I should have more regard for her；
however； if she had been more constant in the object of her
affection； but； truly； she aimed at conquest； and flirted at the
same time with my uncle's footman； Humphrey Clinker； who is
really a deserving young man； and one Dutton； my brother's valet
de chambre； a debauched fellow； who； leaving Win in the lurch；
ran away with another man's bride at Berwick。
My dear Willis； I am truly ashamed of my own sex We complain of
advantages which the men take of our youth； inexperience；
insensibility； and all that； but I have seen enough to believe；
that our sex in general make it their business to ensnare the
other； and for this purpose； employ arts which are by no means to
be justified In point of constancy； they certainly have nothing
to reproach the male part of the creation My poor aunt； without
any regard to her years and imperfections； has gone to market
with her charms in every place where she thought she had the
least chance to dispose of her person； which； however； hangs
still heavy on her hands I am afraid she has used even religion
as a decoy； though it has not answered her expectation She has
been praying； preaching； and catechising among the methodists；
with whom this country abounds； and pretends to have such
manifestations and revelations； as even Clinker himself can
hardly believe； though the poor fellow is half crazy with
enthusiasm。 As for Jenkins； she affects to take all her
mistress's reveries for gospel。 She has also her heart…heavings
and motions of the spirit； and God forgive me if I think
uncharitably； but all this seems to me to be downright hypocrisy
and deceit Perhaps； indeed； the poor girl imposes on herself
She is generally in a flutter； and is much subject to vapours
Since we came to Scotland； she has seen apparitions； and pretends
to prophesy If I could put faith in all these supernatural
visitations； I should think myself abandoned of grace； for I have
neither seen； heard； nor felt anything of this nature； although I
endeavour to discharge the duties of religion with all the
sincerity； zeal； and devotion； that is in the power of；
Dear Letty；
your ever affectionate；
LYDIA MELFORD
GLASGOW； Sept。 7。
We are so far on our return to Brambleton…hall； and I would fain
hope we shall take Gloucester in our way； in which case I shall
have the inexpressible pleasure of embracing my dear Willis Pray
remember me to my worthy governess。
To Mrs MAR