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There are some good pictures in the royal museum。 Do not start； I am not going to trouble you with a dull catalogue； or stupid criticisms on masters to whom time has assigned their just niche in the temple of fame； had there been any by living artists of this country； I should have noticed them； as making a part of the sketches I am drawing of the present state of the place。 The good pictures were mixed indiscriminately with the bad ones； in order to assort the frames。 The same fault is conspicuous in the new splendid gallery forming at Paris； though it seems an obvious thought that a school for artists ought to be arranged in such a manner； as to show the progressive discoveries and improvements in the art。
A collection of the dresses； arms； and implements of the Laplanders attracted my attention； displaying that first species of ingenuity which is rather a proof of patient perseverance； than comprehension of mind。 The specimens of natural history； and curiosities of art； were likewise huddled together without that scientific order which alone renders them useful； but this may partly have been occasioned by the hasty manner in which they were removed from the palace when in flames。
There are some respectable men of science here； but few literary characters； and fewer artists。 They want encouragement； and will continue； I fear； from the present appearance of things； to languish unnoticed a long time； for neither the vanity of wealth； nor the enterprising spirit of commerce； has yet thrown a glance that way。
Besides； the Prince Royal； determined to be economical； almost descends to parsimony； and perhaps depresses his subjects； by labouring not to oppress them； for his intentions always seem to be goodyet nothing can give a more forcible idea of the dulness which eats away all activity of mind； than the insipid routine of a court； without magnificence or elegance。
The Prince； from what I can now collect； has very moderate abilities； yet is so well disposed； that Count Bernstorff finds him as tractable as he could wish； for I consider the Count as the real sovereign； scarcely behind the curtain； the Prince having none of that obstinate self…sufficiency of youth； so often the forerunner of decision of character。 He and the Princess his wife； dine every day with the King； to save the expense of two tables。 What a mummery it must be to treat as a king a being who has lost the majesty of man！ But even Count Bernstorff's morality submits to this standing imposition； and he avails himself of it sometimes； to soften a refusal of his own； by saying it is the WILL of the King； my master； when everybody knows that he has neither will nor memory。 Much the same use is made of him as； I have observed； some termagant wives make of their husbands； they would dwell on the necessity of obeying their husbands； poor passive souls； who never were allowed TO WILL； when they wanted to conceal their own tyranny。
A story is told here of the King's formerly making a dog counsellor of state； because when the dog； accustomed to eat at the royal table； snatched a piece of meat off an old officer's plate； he reproved him jocosely； saying that he； monsieur le chien； had not the privilege of dining with his majesty； a privilege annexed to this distinction。
The burning of the palace was； in fact； a fortunate circumstance； as it afforded a pretext for reducing the establishment of the household； which was far too great for the revenue of the Crown。 The Prince Royal； at present； runs into the opposite extreme； and the formality； if not the parsimony； of the court； seems to extend to all the other branches of society； which I had an opportunity of observing； though hospitality still characterises their intercourse with strangers。
But let me now stop； I may be a little partial； and view everything with the jaundiced eye of melancholyfor I am sadand have cause。
God bless you！
LETTER XXI。
I have seen Count Bernstorff； and his conversation confirms me in the opinion I had previously formed of him； I mean； since my arrival at Copenhagen。 He is a worthy man； a little vain of his virtue a la Necker； and more anxious not to do wrong； that is to avoid blame； than desirous of doing good； especially if any particular good demands a change。 Prudence； in short； seems to be the basis of his character； and； from the tenor of the Government； I should think inclining to that cautious circumspection which treads on the heels of timidity。 He has considerable information； and some finesse； or he could not be a Minister。 Determined not to risk his popularity； for he is tenderly careful of his reputation； he will never gloriously fail like Struensee； or disturb； with the energy of genius； the stagnant state of the public mind。
I suppose that Lavater； whom he invited to visit him two years ago some say to fix the principles of the Christian religion firmly in the Prince Royal's mind； found lines in his face to prove him a statesman of the first order； because he has a knack at seeing a great character in the countenances of men in exalted stations； who have noticed him or his works。 Besides； the Count's sentiments relative to the French Revolution； agreeing with Lavater's； must have ensured his applause。
The Danes； in general； seem extremely averse to innovation； and if happiness only consist in opinion； they are the happiest people in the world； for I never saw any so well satisfied with their own situation。 Yet the climate appears to be very disagreeable； the weather being dry and sultry； or moist and cold； the atmosphere never having that sharp； bracing purity； which in Norway prepares you to brave its rigours。 I do not hear the inhabitants of this place talk with delight of the winter； which is the constant theme of the Norwegians； on the contrary； they seem to dread its comfortless inclemency。
The ramparts are pleasant； and must have been much more so before the fire； the walkers not being annoyed by the clouds of dust which； at present； the slightest wind wafts from the ruins。 The windmills； and the comfortable houses contiguous； belonging to the millers； as well as the appearance of the spacious barracks for the soldiers and sailors； tend to render this walk more agreeable。 The view of the country has not much to recommend it to notice but its extent and cultivation： yet as the eye always delights to dwell on verdant plains； especially when we are resident in a great city； these shady walks should be reckoned amongst the advantages procured by the Government for the inhabitants。 I like them better than the Royal Gardens； also open to the public； because the latter seem sunk in the heart of the city； to concentrate its fogs。
The canals which intersect the streets are equally convenient and wholesome； but the view of the sea commanded by the town had little to interest me whilst the remembrance of the various bold and picturesque shores I had seen was fresh in my memory。 Still the opulent inhabitants； who seldom go abroad； must find the spots were they fix their country seats much pleasanter on account of the vicinity of the ocean。
One of the best streets in Copenhagen is almost filled with hospitals； erected by the Government； and； I am assured； as well regulated as institutions of this kind are in any country； but whether hospitals or workhouses are anywhere superintended with sufficient humanity I have frequently had reason to doubt。
The autumn is so uncommonly fine that I am unwilling to put off my journey to Hamburg much longer； lest the weather should alter suddenly； and the chilly harbingers of winter catch me here； where I have nothing now to detain me but the hospitality of the families to whom I had recommendatory letters。 I lodged at an hotel situated in a large open square； where the troops exercise and the market is kept。 My apartments were very good； and on account of the fire I was told that I should be charged very high； yet； paying my bill just now； I find the demands much lower in proportion than in Norway； though my dinners were in every respect better。
I have remained more at home since I arrived at Copenhagen than I ought to have done in a strange place； but the mind is not always equally active in search of information； and my oppressed heart too often sighs out …
〃How dull； flat； and unprofitable Are to me all the usages of this world： That it should come to this！〃
Farewell！ Fare thee well； I say； if thou canst； repeat the adieu in a different tone。
LETTER XXII。
I arrived at Corsoer the night after I quitted Copenhagen； purposing to take my passage across the Great Belt the next morning； though the weather was rather boisterous。 It is about four…and…twenty miles but as both I and my little girl are never attacked by sea… sicknessthough who can avoid ennui？I enter a boat with the same indifference as I change horses； and as for danger； come when it may； I dread it not sufficiently to have any anticipating fears。
The road from Copenhagen was very good； through an open； flat country that had little to recommend it to notice excepting the cultivation； which gratified my heart more than my eye。
I took a barge with a German baron who was hastening back from a tou