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ure though slower decay。
The castle was heavy and gloomy； yet the grounds about it were laid out with some taste； a walk； winding under the shade of lofty trees； led to a regularly built and animated town。
I crossed the drawbridge； and entered to see this shell of a court in miniature； mounting ponderous stairsit would be a solecism to say a flightup which a regiment of men might have marched； shouldering their firelocks to exercise in vast galleries； where all the generations of the Princes of Hesse…Cassel might have been mustered rank and file； though not the phantoms of all the wretched they had bartered to support their state； unless these airy substances could shrink and expand； like Milton's devils； to suit the occasion。
The sight of the presence…chamber； and of the canopy to shade the fauteuil which aped a throne； made me smile。 All the world is a stage； thought I； and few are there in it who do not play the part they have learnt by rote； and those who do not； seem marks set up to be pelted at by fortune； or rather as sign…posts which point out the road to others； whilst forced to stand still themselves amidst the mud and dust。
Waiting for our horses； we were amused by observing the dress of the women； which was very grotesque and unwieldy。 The false notion of beauty which prevails here as well as in Denmark； I should think very inconvenient in summer； as it consists in giving a rotundity to a certain part of the body； not the most slim； when Nature has done her part。 This Dutch prejudice often leads them to toil under the weight of some ten or a dozen petticoats； which； with an enormous basket； literally speaking； as a bonnet； or a straw hat of dimensions equally gigantic； almost completely conceal the human form as well as face divine； often worth showing； still they looked clean； and tripped along； as it were； before the wind； with a weight of tackle that I could scarcely have lifted。 Many of the country girls I met appeared to me prettythat is； to have fine complexions； sparkling eyes； and a kind of arch； hoyden playfulness which distinguishes the village coquette。 The swains； in their Sunday trim； attended some of these fair ones in a more slouching pace； though their dress was not so cumbersome。 The women seem to take the lead in polishing the manners everywhere； this being the only way to better their condition。
From what I have seen throughout my journey； I do not think the situation of the poor in England is much； if at all； superior to that of the same class in different parts of the world； and in Ireland I am sure it is much inferior。 I allude to the former state of England； for at present the accumulation of national wealth only increases the cares of the poor； and hardens the hearts of the rich； in spite of the highly extolled rage for almsgiving。
You know that I have always been an enemy to what is termed charity； because timid bigots； endeavouring thus to cover their sins； do violence to justice； till； acting the demigod； they forget that they are men。 And there are others who do not even think of laying up a treasure in heaven； whose benevolence is merely tyranny in disguise； they assist the most worthless； because the most servile； and term them helpless only in proportion to their fawning。
After leaving Sleswick； we passed through several pretty towns； Itzchol particularly pleased me； and the country； still wearing the same aspect； was improved by the appearance of more trees and enclosures。 But what gratified me most was the population。 I was weary of travelling four or five hours； never meeting a carriage； and scarcely a peasant； and then to stop at such wretched huts as I had seen in Sweden was surely sufficient to chill any heart awake to sympathy； and throw a gloom over my favourite subject of contemplation； the future improvement of the world。
The farmhouses； likewise； with the huge stables； into which we drove whilst the horses were putting to or baiting； were very clean and commodious。 The rooms； with a door into this hall…like stable and storehouse in one； were decent； and there was a compactness in the appearance of the whole family lying thus snugly together under the same roof that carried my fancy back to the primitive times； which probably never existed with such a golden lustre as the animated imagination lends when only able to seize the prominent features。
At one of them； a pretty young woman； with languishing eyes of celestial blue； conducted us into a very neat parlour； and observing how loosely and lightly my little girl was clad； began to pity her in the sweetest accents； regardless of the rosy down of health on her cheeks。 This same damsel was dressedit was Sundaywith taste and even coquetry； in a cotton jacket； ornamented with knots of blue ribbon； fancifully disposed to give life to her fine complexion。 I loitered a little to admire her； for every gesture was graceful； and； amidst the other villagers； she looked like a garden lily suddenly rearing its head amongst grain and corn…flowers。 As the house was small； I gave her a piece of money rather larger than it was my custom to give to the female waitersfor I could not prevail on her to sit downwhich she received with a smile； yet took care to give it； in my presence； to a girl who had brought the child a slice of bread； by which I perceived that she was the mistress or daughter of the house； and without doubt the belle of the village。 There was； in short； an appearance of cheerful industry； and of that degree of comfort which shut out misery； in all the little hamlets as I approached Hamburg； which agreeably surprised me。
The short jackets which the women wear here； as well as in France； are not only more becoming to the person； but much better calculated for women who have rustic or household employments than the long gowns worn in England； dangling in the dirt。
All the inns on the road were better than I expected； though the softness of the beds still harassed me； and prevented my finding the rest I was frequently in want of； to enable me to bear the fatigue of the next day。 The charges were moderate； and the people very civil； with a certain honest hilarity and independent spirit in their manner； which almost made me forget that they were innkeepers； a set of menwaiters； hostesses； chambermaids； &c。； down to the ostler； whose cunning servility in England I think particularly disgusting。
The prospect of Hamburg at a distance； as well as the fine road shaded with trees； led me to expect to see a much pleasanter city than I found。
I was aware of the difficulty of obtaining lodgings； even at the inns； on account of the concourse of strangers at present resorting to such a centrical situation； and determined to go to Altona the next day to seek for an abode； wanting now only rest。 But even for a single night we were sent from house to house； and found at last a vacant room to sleep in； which I should have turned from with disgust had there been a choice。
I scarcely know anything that produces more disagreeable sensations； I mean to speak of the passing cares； the recollection of which afterwards enlivens our enjoyments； than those excited by little disasters of this kind。 After a long journey； with our eyes directed to some particular spot； to arrive and find nothing as it should be is vexatious； and sinks the agitated spirits。 But I； who received the cruellest of disappointments last spring in returning to my home； term such as these emphatically passing cares。 Know you of what materials some hearts are made？ I play the child； and weep at the recollectionfor the grief is still fresh that stunned as well as wounded meyet never did drops of anguish like these bedew the cheeks of infantine innocenceand why should they mine； that never was stained by a blush of guilt？ Innocent and credulous as a child； why have I not the same happy thoughtlessness？ Adieu！
LETTER XXIII。
I might have spared myself the disagreeable feelings I experienced the first night of my arrival at Hamburg； leaving the open air to be shut up in noise and dirt； had I gone immediately to Altona； where a lodging had been prepared for me by a gentleman from whom I received many civilities during my journey。 I wished to have travelled in company with him from Copenhagen； because I found him intelligent and friendly； but business obliged him to hurry forward； and I wrote to him on the subject of accommodations as soon as I was informed of the difficulties I might have to encounter to house myself and brat。
It is but a short and pleasant walk from Hamburg to Altona； under the shade of several rows of trees； and this walk is the more agreeable after quitting the rough pavement of either place。
Hamburg is an ill； close…built town； swarming with inhabitants； and； from what I could learn； like all the other free towns； governed in a manner which bears hard on the poor； whilst narrowing the minds of the rich； the character of the man is lost in the Hamburger。 Always afraid of the encroachments of their Danish neighbours； that is； anxiously apprehensive of their sharing the golden harvest of commerce with them； or taking a little of the trade off their hands… …though they have more than they know what to