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yards from it was a bridge that crossed the river； the murmurs of which I have celebrated； it was not fordable。 The Swedish general received orders to stop at the bridge and dispute the passagea most advantageous post for an army so much inferior in force； but the influence of beauty is not confined to courts。 The mistress of the inn was handsome； when I saw her there were still some remains of beauty； and； to preserve her house； the general gave up the only tenable station。 He was afterwards broke for contempt of orders。
Approaching the frontiers； consequently the sea； nature resumed an aspect ruder and ruder； or rather seemed the bones of the world waiting to be clothed with everything necessary to give life and beauty。 Still it was sublime。
The clouds caught their hue of the rocks that menaced them。 The sun appeared afraid to shine； the birds ceased to sing； and the flowers to bloom； but the eagle fixed his nest high amongst the rocks； and the vulture hovered over this abode of desolation。 The farm houses； in which only poverty resided； were formed of logs scarcely keeping off the cold and drifting snow： out of them the inhabitants seldom peeped； and the sports or prattling of children was neither seen or heard。 The current of life seemed congealed at the source： all were not frozen； for it was summer； you remember； but everything appeared so dull that I waited to see ice； in order to reconcile me to the absence of gaiety。
The day before； my attention had frequently been attracted by the wild beauties of the country we passed through。
The rocks which tossed their fantastic heads so high were often covered with pines and firs； varied in the most picturesque manner。 Little woods filled up the recesses when forests did not darken the scene； and valleys and glens； cleared of the trees； displayed a dazzling verdure which contrasted with the gloom of the shading pines。 The eye stole into many a covert where tranquillity seemed to have taken up her abode； and the number of little lakes that continually presented themselves added to the peaceful composure of the scenery。 The little cultivation which appeared did not break the enchantment； nor did castles rear their turrets aloft to crush the cottages； and prove that man is more savage than the natives of the woods。 I heard of the bears but never saw them stalk forth； which I was sorry for； I wished to have seen one in its wild state。 In the winter； I am told； they sometimes catch a stray cow； which is a heavy loss to the owner。
The farms are small。 Indeed most of the houses we saw on the road indicated poverty； or rather that the people could just live。 Towards the frontiers they grew worse and worse in their appearance； as if not willing to put sterility itself out of countenance。 No gardens smiled round the habitations； not a potato or cabbage to eat with the fish drying on a stick near the door。 A little grain here and there appeared； the long stalks of which you might almost reckon。 The day was gloomy when we passed over this rejected spot； the wind bleak； and winter seemed to be contending with nature； faintly struggling to change the season。 Surely； thought I； if the sun ever shines here it cannot warm these stones； moss only cleaves to them； partaking of their hardness； and nothing like vegetable life appears to cheer with hope the heart。
So far from thinking that the primitive inhabitants of the world lived in a southern climate where Paradise spontaneously arose； I am led to infer； from various circumstances； that the first dwelling of man happened to be a spot like this which led him to adore a sun so seldom seen； for this worship； which probably preceded that of demons or demigods； certainly never began in a southern climate； where the continual presence of the sun prevented its being considered as a good； or rather the want of it never being felt； this glorious luminary would carelessly have diffused its blessings without being hailed as a benefactor。 Man must therefore have been placed in the north； to tempt him to run after the sun； in order that the different parts of the earth might be peopled。 Nor do I wonder that hordes of barbarians always poured out of these regions to seek for milder climes； when nothing like cultivation attached them to the soil； especially when we take into the view that the adventuring spirit； common to man； is naturally stronger and more general during the infancy of society。 The conduct of the followers of Mahomet； and the crusaders； will sufficiently corroborate my assertion。
Approaching nearer to Stromstad； the appearance of the town proved to be quite in character with the country we had just passed through。 I hesitated to use the word country； yet could not find another； still it would sound absurd to talk of fields of rocks。
The town was built on and under them。 Three or four weather…beaten trees were shrinking from the wind； and the grass grew so sparingly that I could not avoid thinking Dr。 Johnson's hyperbolical assertion 〃that the man merited well of his country who made a few blades of grass grow where they never grew before；〃 might here have been uttered with strict propriety。 The steeple likewise towered aloft； for what is a church； even amongst the Lutherans； without a steeple？ But to prevent mischief in such an exposed situation； it is wisely placed on a rock at some distance not to endanger the roof of the church。
Rambling about； I saw the door open； and entered； when to my great surprise I found the clergyman reading prayers； with only the clerk attending。 I instantly thought of Swift's 〃Dearly beloved Roger；〃 but on inquiry I learnt that some one had died that morning； and in Sweden it is customary to pray for the dead。
The sun； who I suspected never dared to shine； began now to convince me that he came forth only to torment； for though the wind was still cutting； the rocks became intolerably warm under my feet； whilst the herring effluvia； which I before found so very offensive； once more assailed me。 I hastened back to the house of a merchant； the little sovereign of the place； because he was by far the richest； though not the mayor。
Here we were most hospitably received； and introduced to a very fine and numerous family。 I have before mentioned to you the lilies of the north； I might have added； water lilies； for the complexion of many； even of the young women； seem to be bleached on the bosom of snow。 But in this youthful circle the roses bloomed with all their wonted freshness； and I wondered from whence the fire was stolen which sparkled in their fine blue eyes。
Here we slept； and I rose early in the morning to prepare for my little voyage to Norway。 I had determined to go by water； and was to leave my companions behind； but not getting a boat immediately； and the wind being high and unfavourable； I was told that it was not safe to go to sea during such boisterous weather； I was； therefore； obliged to wait for the morrow； and had the present day on my hands； which I feared would be irksome； because the family； who possessed about a dozen French words amongst them and not an English phrase； were anxious to amuse me； and would not let me remain alone in my room。 The town we had already walked round and round； and if we advanced farther on the coast； it was still to view the same unvaried immensity of water surrounded by barrenness。
The gentlemen； wishing to peep into Norway； proposed going to Fredericshall； the first townthe distance was only three Swedish miles。 There and back again was but a day's journey； and would not； I thought； interfere with my voyage。 I agreed； and invited the eldest and prettiest of the girls to accompany us。 I invited her because I like to see a beautiful face animated by pleasure； and to have an opportunity of regarding the country； whilst the gentlemen were amusing themselves with her。
I did not know； for I had not thought of it； that we were to scale some of the most mountainous cliffs of Sweden in our way to the ferry which separates the two countries。
Entering amongst the cliffs； we were sheltered from the wind； warm sunbeams began to play； streams to flow； and groves of pines diversified the rocks。 Sometimes they became suddenly bare and sublime。 Once； in particular； after mounting the most terrific precipice； we had to pass through a tremendous defile； where the closing chasm seemed to threaten us with instant destruction； when； turning quickly； verdant meadows and a beautiful lake relieved and charmed my eyes。
I had never travelled through Switzerland； but one of my companions assured me that I should not there find anything superior； if equal； to the wild grandeur of these views。
As we had not taken this excursion into our plan； the horses had not been previously ordered； which obliged us to wait two hours at the first post。 The day was wearing away。 The road was so bad that walking up the precipices consumed the time insensibly； but as we desired horses at each post ready at a certain hour； we reckoned on returning more speedily。
We stopped to dine at a tolerable farm； they brought us out ham； butter； cheese； and milk； and the charge was so moderate that I scattered a little money amongst the children who