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that there is a continual fete and general illumination in Venice； the
custom being to spend the greater part of the night in business or
pleasure； and the streets are as brilliant and as full of people as in
Paris at four o'clock in the afternoon。 The shops； especially those of
the square of Saint Mark； are brilliantly lighted； and crowds fill the
small decorated pavilions where coffee； ices； and refreshments of all
kinds are sold。
The Emperor did not adopt the Venetian mode of life； however； and retired
at the same hour as in Paris； and when he did not pass the day working
with his ministers； rode in a gondola through the lagoons； or visited the
principal establishments and public buildings of Venice； and I thus saw；
in company with his Majesty； the church of Saint Mark； and the ancient
palace of the Doge。
The church of Saint Mark has five entrances； superbly decorated with
marble columns； the gates are of bronze and beautifully carved。 Above
the middle door were formerly the four famous bronze horses； which the
Emperor carried to Paris to ornament the Arch of Triumph on the Place du
Carrousel。 The tower is separated from the church by a small square；
from the midst of which it rises to a height of more than three hundred
feet。 It is ascended by an inclined platform without steps； which is
very convenient； and on arriving at the summit the most magnificent
panorama is spread out before you； Venice with its innumerable islands
covered with palaces； churches； and buildings； and extending at a
distance into the sea； also the immense dike； sixty feet broad； several
fathoms deep； and built of great blocks of stone； which enormous work
surrounds Venice and all its islands； and defends it against the rising
of the sea。
The Venetians have the greatest admiration for the clock placed in the
tower bearing its name； and the mechanism of which shows the progress
of the sun and moon through the twelve signs of the zodiac。 In a niche
above the dialplate is an image of the Virgin； which is gilded and
lifesize； and it is said that on certain fete days； each blow of the
pendulum makes two angels appear； trumpet in hand； followed by the Three
Wise Men； who prostrate themselves at the feet of the Virgin Mary。 I saw
nothing of all that； but only two large black figures striking the hour
on the clock with iron clubs。
The Doge's palace is a gloomy building； and the prisons； which are
separated from it only by a narrow canal； render the aspect still more
depressing。
At Venice one finds merchants from every nation； Jews and Greeks being
very numerous。 Roustan； who understood the language of the latter； was
sought after by the most distinguished among them； and the heads of a
Greek family came one day to invite him to visit them at their residence
on one of the islands which lie around Venice。 Roustan confided to me
his desire to accept this invitation； and I was delighted with his
proposition that I should accompany him。 On our arrival at their island；
we were received by our hosts； who were very wealthy merchants； as if we
had been old friends。 The apartment； a kind of parlor into which we were
ushered； not only evinced cultivation and refinement； but great elegance；
a large divan extended around the hall； the inlaid floor of which was
covered with artistically woven mats。 Our hosts were six men who were
associated in the same trade。 I would have been somewhat embarrassed had
not one of them who spoke French conversed with me； while the others
talked to Roustan in their native tongue。 We were offered coffee；
fruits； ices； and pipes； and as I was never fond of smoking； and knew
besides the disgust inspired in the Emperor by odors in general； and
especially that of tobacco； I refused the pipe； and expressed a fear that
my clothes might be scented by being so near the smokers。 I thought I
perceived that this delicacy lowered me considerably in the esteem of my
hosts； notwithstanding which； as we left； they gave us most urgent
invitations to repeat our visit； which it was impossible to do； as the
Emperor soon after left Venice。
On my return； the Emperor asked me if I had been through the city； what I
thought of it； and if I had entered any residences； in fact； what seemed
to me worthy of notice。 I replied as well as I could； and as his Majesty
was just then in a mood for light conversation； spoke to him of our
excursion； and visit to the Greek family。 The Emperor asked me what
these Greeks thought of him。 〃Sire；〃 replied I； 〃the one who spoke
French seemed entirely devoted to your Majesty； and expressed to me the
hope which he and also his brothers entertained； that the Emperor of the
French； who had successfully combated the mamelukes in Egypt； might also
some day make himself the liberator of Greece。〃
〃Ah； Monsieur Constant；〃 said the Emperor to me； pinching me sharply；
〃you are meddling with politics。〃〃Pardon me； Sire； I only repeated what
I heard； and it is not astonishing that all the oppressed count on your
Majesty's aid。 These poor Greeks seem to love their country
passionately； and； above all； detest the Turks most cordially。〃〃That is
good；〃 said his Majesty； 〃but I must first of all attend to my own
business。 Constant！〃 continued his Majesty suddenly changing the
subject of this conversation with which he had deigned to honor me； and
smiling with an ironical air； 〃what do you think of the appearance of the
beautiful Greek women？ How many models have you seen worthy of Canova or
of David？ 〃I was obliged to admit to his Majesty that what had
influenced me most in accepting Roustan's proposition was the hope of
seeing a few of these much vaunted beauties； and that I had been cruelly
disappointed in not having seen the shadow of a woman。 At this frank
avowal the Emperor； who had expected it in advance； laughed heartily； and
took his revenge on my ears； calling me a libertine： 〃You do not know
then； Monsieur le Drole； that your good friends the Greeks have adopted
the customs of those Turks whom they detest so cordially； and like them
seclude their wives and daughters in order that they may never appear
before bad men like yourself。〃
Although the Greek ladies of Venice may be carefully watched by their
husbands； they are neither secluded nor guarded in a seraglio like the
Turkish women； for during our stay at Venice； a great person spoke to his
Majesty of a young and beautiful Greek； who was an enthusiastic admirer
of the Emperor of the French。 This lady was very ambitious of being
received by his Majesty in his private rooms； and although carefully
watched by a jealous husband； had found means to send to the Emperor a
letter in which she depicted the intensity of her love and admiration。
This letter； written with real passion and in an exalted strain； inspired
in his Majesty a desire to see and know the author； but it was necessary
he should use precautions； for the Emperor was not the man to abuse his
power to snatch a woman from her husband； and yet all the care that he
took in keeping the affair secret did not prevent her husband from
suspecting the plans of his wife； and before it was possible for her to
see the Emperor； she was carried away far from Venice； and her prudent
husband carefully covered her steps and concealed her flight。 When her
disappearance was announced to the Emperor： 〃He is an old fool；〃 said his
Majesty； laughing； 〃who thinks he is strong enough to struggle against
his destiny。〃 His Majesty formed no other liaison during our stay at
Venice。
Before leaving this city； the Emperor rendered a decree which was
received with inexpressible enthusiasm； and added much to the regret
which his Majesty's departure caused the inhabitants of Venice。 The
department of the Adriatic； of which Venice was the chief city； was
enlarged in all its maritime coasts； from the town of Aquila as far as
Adria。 The decree ordered； moreover； that the port should be repaired；
the canals deepened and cleaned； the great wall of Palestrina of which I
have spoken above； and the jetties in front of it； extended and
maintained； that a canal of communication between the arsenal of Venice
and the Pass of Mala…Mocco should be dug； and finally that this passage
itself should be cleared and deepened sufficiently for vessels of the
line of seventy…four tons burthen to pass in and out。
Other articles related to benevolent establishments； the administration
of which was given to a kind of council called the Congregation of
Charities； and the cession to the city from the royal domain of the
island of Saint Christopher； to be used as a general cemetery； for until
then here； as in the rest of Italy； they had the pernicious custom of
interring the dead in churches。 Finally the decree ordered the adoption
of a new mode of lighting the beautiful square of Saint Mark； the
construction of new quays； gateways； etc。
When we left Venice the Emperor was conducted to the shore by a crowd of
the population fully as numerous as that which welcomed his arrival。
Trevise； Undine； and Mantua rivaled each other in their eagerness to
receive his Majesty in a becoming manner。 King Joseph had left the
Emperor to ret