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Leap is where the Millerites put on their robes one night to go to
heaven。 None of them went that night； but I suppose most of them have
gone now。〃
John Briggs said：
〃Sam； do you remember the day we stole the peaches from old man Price and
one of his bow…legged niggers came after us with the dogs； and how we
made up our minds that we'd catch that nigger and drown him？〃
They came to the place where they had pried out the great rock that had
so nearly brought them to grief。 Sam Clemens said：
〃John； if we had killed that man we'd have had a dead nigger on our hands
without a cent to pay for him。〃
And so they talked on of this thing and that； and by and by they drove
along the river； and Sam Clemens pointed out the place where he swam it
and was taken with a cramp on the return swim； and believed for a while
that his career was about to close。
〃Once； near the shore； I thought I would let down；〃 he said； 〃but was
afraid to； knowing that if the water was deep I was a goner； but finally
my knees struck the sand and I crawled out。 That was the closest call I
ever had。〃
They drove by the place where the haunted house had stood。 They drank
from a well they had always known； and from the bucket as they had always
drunk； talking and always talking； fondling lovingly and lingeringly that
most beautiful of all our possessions； the past。
〃Sam；〃 said John； when they parted； 〃this is probably the last time we
shall meet on this earth。 God bless you。 Perhaps somewhere we shall
renew our friendship。〃
〃John；〃 was the answer； 〃this day has been worth thousands of dollars to
me。 We were like brothers once； and I feel that we are the same now。
Good…by； John。 I'll try to meet yousomewhere。〃
CCXXII
A PROPHET HONORED IN HIS COUNTRY
Clemens left next day for Columbia。 Committees met him at Rensselaer；
Monroe City； Clapper； Stoutsville； Paris； Madison； Moberlyat every
station along the line of his travel。 At each place crowds were gathered
when the train pulled in； to cheer and wave and to present him with
flowers。 Sometimes he spoke a few words； but oftener his eyes were full
of tearshis voice would not come。
There is something essentially dramatic in official recognition by one's
native Statethe return of the lad who has set out unknown to battle
with life； and who； having conquered； is invited back to be crowned。 No
other honor； however great and spectacular； is quite like that； for there
is in it a pathos and a completeness that are elemental and stir emotions
as old as life itself。
It was on the 4th of June； 1902； that Mark Twain received his doctor of
laws degree from the State University at Columbia； Missouri。 James
Wilson； Secretary of Agriculture； and Ethan Allen Hitchcock； Secretary of
the Interior； were among those similarly honored。 Mark Twain was
naturally the chief attraction。 Dressed in his Yale scholastic gown he
led the procession of graduating students； and； as in Hannibal； awarded
them their diplomas。 The regular exercises were made purposely brief in
order that some time might be allowed for the conferring of the degrees。
This ceremony was a peculiarly impressive one。 Gardner Lathrop read a
brief statement introducing 〃America's foremost author and best…loved
citizen； Samuel Langhorne ClemensMark Twain。〃
Clemens rose； stepped out to the center of the stage； and paused。 He
seemed to be in doubt as to whether he should make a speech or simply
express his thanks and retire。 Suddenly； and without a signal； the great
audience rose as one man and stood in silence at his feet。 He bowed； but
he could not speak。 Then that vast assembly began a peculiar chant；
spelling out slowly the word Missouri； with a pause between each letter。
It was dramatic； it was tremendous in its impressiveness。 He had
recovered himself when they finished。 He said he didn't know whether he
was expected to make a speech or not。 They did not leave'him in doubt。
They cheered and demanded a speech； a speech； and he made them oneone
of the speeches he could make best； full of quaint phrasing； happy humor；
gentle and dramatic pathos。 He closed by telling the watermelon story
for its 〃moral effect。〃
He was the guest of E。 W。 Stevens in Columbia； and a dinner was given in
his honor。 They would have liked to keep him longer； but he was due in
St。 Louis again to join in the dedication of the grounds； where was to be
held a World's Fair； to celebrate the Louisiana Purchase。 Another
ceremony he attended was the christening of the St。 Louis harbor…boat； or
rather the rechristening； for it had been decided to change its name from
the St。 Louis＇Originally the Elon G。 Smith； built in 1873。＇to the
Mark Twain。 A short trip was made on it for the ceremony。 Governor
Francis and Mayor Wells were of the party； and Count and Countess
Rochambeau and Marquis de Lafayette； with the rest of the French group
that had come over for the dedication of the World's Fair grounds。
Mark Twain himself was invited to pilot the harbor boat； and so returned
for the last time to his old place at the wheel。 They all collected in
the pilot…house behind him； feeling that it was a memorable occasion。
They were going along well enough when he saw a little ripple running out
from the shore across the bow。 In the old days he could have told
whether it indicated a bar there or was only caused by the wind； but he
could not be sure any more。 Turning to the pilot languidly； he said：
〃I feel a little tired。 I guess you had better take the wheel。〃
Luncheon was served aboard； and Mayor Wells made the christening speech；
then the Countess Rochambeau took a bottle of champagne from the hand of
Governor Francis and smashed it on the deck； saying； 〃 I christen thee；
good boat； Mark Twain。〃 So it was； the Mississippi joined in according
him honors。 In his speech of reply he paid tribute to those illustrious
visitors from France and recounted something of the story of French
exploration along that great river。
〃The name of La Salle will last as long as the river itself；〃 he said；
〃will last until commerce is dead。 We have allowed the commerce of the
river to die； but it was to accommodate the railroads； and we must be
grateful。〃
Carriages were waiting for them when the boat landed in the afternoon；
and the party got in and were driven to a house which had been identified
as Eugene Field's birthplace。 A bronze tablet recording this fact had
been installed； and this was to be the unveiling。 The place was not in
an inviting quarter of the town。 It stood in what is known as Walsh's
Rowwas fashionable enough once； perhaps； but long since fallen into
disrepute。 Ragged children played in the doorways； and thirsty lodgers
were making trips with tin pails to convenient bar…rooms。 A curious
nondescript audience assembled around the little group of dedicators；
wondering what it was all about。 The tablet was concealed by the
American flag； which could be easily pulled away by an attached cord。
Governor Francis spoke a few words； to the effect that they had gathered
here to unveil a tablet to an American poet； and that it was fitting that
Mark Twain should do this。 They removed their hats； and Clemens； his
white hair blowing in the wind； said：
〃My friends； we are here with reverence and respect to commemorate and
enshrine in memory the house where was born a man who； by his life； made
bright the lives of all who knew him； and by his literary efforts cheered
the thoughts of thousands who never knew him。 I take pleasure in
unveiling the tablet of Eugene Field。〃
The flag fell and the bronze inscription was revealed。 By this time the
crowd； generally； had recognized who it was that was speaking。 A
working…man proposed three cheers for Mark Twain； and they were heartily
given。 Then the little party drove away； while the neighborhood
collected to regard the old house with a new interest。
It was reported to Clemens later that there was some dispute as to the
identity of the Field birthplace。 He said：
〃Never mind。 It is of no real consequence whether it is his birthplace
or not。 A rose in any other garden will bloom as sweet。〃
CCXXIII
AT YORK HARBOR
They decided to spend the summer at York Harbor； Maine。 They engaged a
cottage； there； and about the end of June Mr。 Rogers brought his yacht
Kanawha to their water…front at Riverdale； and in perfect weather took
them to Maine by sea。 They landed at York Harbor and took possession of
their cottage； The Pines； one of their many attractive summer lodges。
Howells； at Kittery Point； was not far away； and everything promised a
happy summer。
Mrs。 Clemens wrote to Mrs。 Crane：
We are in the midst of pines。 They come up right about us； and the
house is so high and the roots of the trees are so far below the
veranda that we are right in the branches。 We drove over to call on
Mr。 and Mrs。 Howells。 The drive was most beautiful； and never in my
life have I seen such a variety of wild flowers in so short a space。
Howells tells us of the wide； low cottage in a pine grove overlooking
York River； and how he used to sit with Clemens that