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Yarmouth； he wrote：
Fog…bound。 The garrison went ashore。 Officers visited the yacht in
the evening & said an anvil had been missed。 Mr。 Rogers paid for
the anvil。
August 13th。 There is a fine picture…gallery here； the sheriff
photographed the garrison； with the exception of Harry （Rogers） and
Mr。 Clemens。
August 14th。 Upon complaint of Mr。 Reed another dog was procured。
He said he had been a sailor all his life； and considered it
dangerous to trust a ship to a dog…watch with only one dog in it。
Poker； for a change。
August 15th。 To Rockland； Maine； in the afternoon； arriving about 6
P。M。 In the night Dr。 Rice baited the anchor with his winnings &
caught a whale 90 feet long。 He said so himself。 It is thought
that if there had been another witness like Dr。 Rice the whale would
have been longer。
August 16th。 We could have had a happy time in Bath but for the
interruptions caused by people who wanted Mr。 Reed to explain votes
of the olden time or give back the money。 Mr。 Rogers recouped them。
Another anvil missed。 The descendant of Captain Kidd is the only
person who does not blush for these incidents。 Harry and Mr。
Clemens blush continually。 It is believed that if the rest of the
garrison were like these two the yacht would be welcome everywhere
instead of being quarantined by the police in all the ports。 Mr。
Clemens & Harry have attracted a great deal of attention； & men have
expressed a resolve to turn over a new leaf & copy after them from
this out。
Evening。 Judge Cohen came over from another yacht to pay his
respects to Harry and Mr。 Clemens； he having heard of their
reputation from the clergy of these coasts。 He was invited by the
gang to play poker apparently as a courtesy & in a spirit of seeming
hospitality； he not knowing them & taking it all at par。 Mr。 Rogers
lent him clothes to go home in。
August 17th。 The Reformed Statesman growling and complaining again
not in a frank； straightforward way； but talking at the Commodore；
while letting on to be talking to himself。 This time he was
dissatisfied about the anchor watch； said it was out of date；
untrustworthy； & for real efficiency didn't begin with the
Waterbury； & was going on to reiterate； as usual； that he had been a
pilot all his life & blamed if he ever saw； etc。； etc。； etc。
But he was not allowed to finish。 We put him ashore at Portland。
That is to say； Reed landed at Portland； the rest of the party returning
with the yacht。
〃We had a noble good time in the yacht；〃 Clemens wrote Twichell on their
return。 〃We caught a Chinee missionary and drowned him。〃
Twichell had been invited to make one of the party； and this letter was
to make him feel sorry he had not accepted。
CCXVI
RIVERDALEA YALE DEGREE
The Clemens household did not return to 14 West Tenth Street。 They spent
a week in Elmira at the end of September； and after a brief stop in New
York took up their residence on the northern metropolitan boundary； at
Riverdale…on…the…Hudson； in the old Appleton home。 They had permanently
concluded not to return to Hartford。 They had put the property there
into an agent's hands for sale。 Mrs。 Clemens never felt that she had the
strength to enter the house again。
They had selected the Riverdale place with due consideration。 They
decided that they must have easy access to the New York center； but they
wished also to have the advantage of space and spreading lawn and trees；
large rooms； and light。 The Appleton homestead provided these things。
It was a house built in the first third of the last century by one of the
Morris family； so long prominent in New York history。 On passing into
the Appleton ownership it had been enlarged and beautified and named
〃Holbrook Hall。〃 It overlooked the Hudson and the Palisades。 It had
associations： the Roosevelt family had once lived there； Huxley； Darwin；
Tyndall； and others of their intellectual rank had been entertained there
during its occupation by the first Appleton； the founder of the
publishing firm。 The great hall of the added wing was its chief feature。
Clemens once remembered：
〃We drifted from room to room on our tour of inspection； always with a
growing doubt as to whether we wanted that house or not； but at last；
when we arrived in a dining…room that was 60 feet long； 30 feet wide； and
had two great fireplaces in it； that settled it。〃
There were pleasant neighbors at Riverdale； and had it not been for the
illnesses that seemed always ready to seize upon that household the home
there might have been ideal。 They loved the place presently； so much so
that they contemplated buying it； but decided that it was too costly。
They began to prospect for other places along the Hudson shore。 They
were anxious to have a home againone that they could call their own。
Among the many pleasant neighbors at Riverdale were the Dodges； the
Quincy Adamses； and the Rev。 Mr。 Carstensen； a liberal…minded minister
with whom Clemens easily affiliated。 Clemens and Carstensen visited back
and forth and exchanged views。 Once Mr。 Carstensen told him that he was
going to town to dine with a party which included the Reverend Gottheil；
a Catholic bishop； an Indian Buddhist； and a Chinese scholar of the
Confucian faith； after which they were all going to a Yiddish theater。
Clemens said：
〃Well； there's only one more thing you need to make the party complete
that is； either Satan or me。〃
Howells often came to Riverdale。 He was living in a New York apartment；
and it was handy and made an easy and pleasant outing for him。 He says：
〃I began to see them again on something like the sweet old terms。 They
lived far more unpretentiously than they used； and I think with a notion
of economy； which they had never very successfully practised。 I recall
that at the end of a certain year in Hartford； when they had been saving
and paying cash for everything； Clemens wrote； reminding me of their
avowed experiment； and asking me to guess how many bills they had at New…
Year's； he hastened to say that a horse…car would not have held them。 At
Riverdale they kept no carriage； and there was a snowy night when I drove
up to their handsome old mansion in the station carryall； which was
crusted with mud； as from the going down of the Deluge after transporting
Noah and his family from the Ark to whatever point they decided to settle
provisionally。 But the good talk； the rich talk； the talk that could
never suffer poverty of mind or soul was there； and we jubilantly found
ourselves again in our middle youth。〃
Both Howells and Clemens were made doctors of letters by Yale that year
and went over in October to receive their degrees。 It was Mark Twain's
second Yale degree； and it was the highest rank that an American
institution of learning could confer。
Twichell wrote：
I want you to understand； old fellow； that it will be in its intention
the highest public compliment； and emphatically so in your case； for it
will be tendered you by a corporation of gentlemen； the majority of whom
do not at all agree with the views on important questions which you have
lately promulgated in speech and in writing； and with which you are
identified to the public mind。 They grant； of course； your right to hold
and express those views； though for themselves they don't like 'em； but
in awarding you the proposed laurel they will make no count of that
whatever。 Their action will appropriately signify simply and solely
their estimate of your merit and rank as a man of letters； and so； as I
say； the compliment of it will be of the pure； unadulterated quality。
Howells was not especially eager to go； and tried to conspire with
Clemens to arrange some excuse which would keep them at home。
I remember with satisfaction ＇he wrote＇ our joint success in keeping away
from the Concord Centennial in 1875； and I have been thinking we might
help each other in this matter of the Yale Anniversary。 What are your
plans for getting left； or shall you trust to inspiration？
Their plans did not avail。 Both Howells and Clemens went to New Haven to
receive their honors。
When they had returned； Howells wrote formally； as became the new rank：
DEAR SIR；I have long been an admirer of your complete works；
several of which I have read； and I am with you shoulder to shoulder
in the cause of foreign missions。 I would respectfully request a
personal interview； and if you will appoint some day and hour most
inconvenient to you I will call at your baronial hall。 I cannot
doubt； from the account of your courtesy given me by the Twelve
Apostles； who once visited you in your Hartford home and were
mistaken for a syndicate of lightning…rod men； that our meeting will
be mutually agreeable。
Yours truly；
W。 D。 HOWELLS。
DR。 CLEMENS。
CCXVII
MARK TWAIN IN POLITICS
There was a campaign for the