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Lad…lane； on the evening of the third day。 The fare was 1L。 l7s。；
and 14 lbs。 of luggage was allowed。 But the principal part of the
expense of travelling was for living and lodging on the road； not
to mention the fees to guards and drivers。
Though the Dover road was still one of the best in the kingdom； the
Dover flying…machine； carrying only four passengers； took a long
summer's day to perform the journey。 It set out from Dover at four
o'clock in the morning； breakfasted at the Red Lion； Canterbury；
and the passengers ate their way up to town at various inns on the
road； arriving in London in time for supper。 Smollett complained
of the innkeepers along that route as the greatest set of
extortioners in England。 The deliberate style in which journeys
were performed may be inferred from the circumstance that on one
occasion； when a quarrel took place between the guard and a
passenger； the coach stopped to see them fight it out on the road。
Foreigners who visited England were peculiarly observant of the
defective modes of conveyance then in use。 Thus； one Don Manoel
Gonzales； a Portuguese merchant； who travelled through Great
Britain； in 1740； speaking of Yarmouth； says； 〃They have a comical
way of carrying people all over the town and from the seaside； for
six pence。 They call it their coach； but it is only a wheel…barrow；
drawn by one horse； without any covering。〃 Another foreigner； Herr
Alberti； a Hanoverian professor of theology； when on a visit to
Oxford in 1750； desiring to proceed to Cambridge； found there was
no means of doing so without returning to London and there taking
coach for Cambridge。 There was not even the convenience of a
carrier's waggon between the two universities。 But the most
amusing account of an actual journey by stage…coach that we know
of； is that given by a Prussian clergyman； Charles H。 Moritz； who
thus describes his adventures on the road between Leicester and
London in 1782：
〃Being obliged；〃 he says； 〃to bestir myself to get
back to London； as the time drew near when the
Hamburgh captain with whom I intended to return had
fixed his departure； I determined to take a place as
far as Northampton on the outside。 But this ride from
Leicester to Northampton I shall remember as long as I live。
〃The coach drove from the yard through a part of the
house。 The inside passengers got in from the yard；
but we on the outside were obliged to clamber up in
the street； because we should have had no room for
our heads to pass under the gateway。 My companions on
the top of the coach were a farmer； a young man very
decently dressed； and a black…a…moor。 The getting up
alone was at the risk of one's life； and when I was
up I was obliged to sit just at the corner of the
coach； with nothing to hold by but a sort of little
handle fastened on the side。 I sat nearest the wheel；
and the moment that we set off I fancied that I saw
certain death before me。 All I could do was to take
still tighter hold of the handle； and to be strictly
careful to preserve my balance。 The machine rolled
along with prodigious rapidity over the stones
through the town； and every moment we seemed to fly
into the air； so much so that it appeared to me a
complete miracle that we stuck to the coach at all。
But we were completely on the wing as often as we
passed through a village or went down a hill。
〃This continual fear of death at last became
insupportable to me； and； therefore； no sooner were
we crawling up a rather steep hill； and consequently
proceeding slower than usual； then I carefully crept
from the top of the coach； and was lucky enough to
get myself snugly ensconced in the basket behind。
〃'O；Sir； you will be shaken to death！' said the
black…a…moor； but I heeded him not； trusting that he
was exaggerating the unpleasantness of my new
situation。 And truly； as long as we went on slowly up
the hill it was easy and pleasant enough； and I was
just on the point of falling asleep among the
surrounding trunks and packages； having had no rest
the night before； when on a sudden the coach
proceeded at a rapid rate down the hill。 Then all the
boxes； iron…nailed and copper…fastened； began； as it
were； to dance around me； everything in the basket
appeared to be alive； and every moment I received
such violent blows that I thought my last hour had
come。 The black…a…moor had been right； I now saw
clearly； but repentance was useless； and I was
obliged to suffer horrible torture for nearly an
hour； which seemed to me an eternity。 At last we came
to another hill； when； quite shaken to pieces；
bleeding； and sore； I ruefully crept back to the top
of the coach to my former seat。 'Ah； did I not tell
you that you would be shaken to death？' inquired the
black man； when I was creeping along on my stomach。
But I gave him no reply。 Indeed； I was ashamed； and I
now write this as a warning to all strangers who are
inclined to ride in English stage…coaches； and take
an outside at； or； worse still； horror of horrors； a
seat in the basket。
〃From Harborough to Northampton I had a most dreadful
journey。 It rained incessantly； and as before we had
been covered with dust； so now we were soaked with
rain。 My neighbour； the young man who sat next me in
the middle； every now and then fell asleep； and when
in this state he perpetually bolted and rolled
against me； with the whole weight of his body； more
than once nearly pushing me from my seat； to which I
clung with the last strength of despair。 My forces
were nearly giving way； when at last； happily； we
reached Northampton； on the evening of the 14th July；
1782； an ever…memorable day to me。
〃On the next morning； I took an inside place for
London。 We started early in the morning。 The journey
from Northampton to the metropolis； however； I can
scarcely call a ride； for it was a perpetual motion；
or endless jolt from one place to another； in a close
wooden box； over what appeared to be a heap of unhewn
stones and trunks of trees scattered by a hurricane。
To make my happiness complete； I had three travelling
companions； all farmers； who slept so soundly that
even the hearty knocks with which they hammered their
heads against each other and against mine did not
awake them。 Their faces； bloated and discoloured by
ale and brandy and the knocks aforesaid； looked； as
they lay before me； like so many lumps of dead flesh。
〃I looked； and certainly felt； like a crazy fool when
we arrived at London in the afternoon。〃*＇3＇
＇Image＇ The Basket Coach； 1780。
Arthur Young； in his books； inveighs strongly against the execrable
state of the roads in all parts of England towards the end of last
century。 In Essex he found the ruts 〃of an incredible depth；〃
and he almost swore at one near Tilbury。 〃Of all the cursed roads；
〃he says； 〃that ever disgraced this kingdom in the very ages of
barbarism； none ever equalled that from Billericay to the King's
Head at Tilbury。 It is for near twelve miles so narrow that a
mouse cannot pass by any carriage。 I saw a fellow creep under his
waggon to assist me to lift； if possible； my chaise over a hedge。
To add to all the infamous circumstances which concur to plague a
traveller； I must not forget the eternally meeting with chalk
waggons； themselves frequently stuck fast； till a collection of
them are in the same situation； and twenty or thirty horses may be
tacked to each to draw them out one by one！〃*＇4＇ Yet will it be
believed； the proposal to form a turnpike…road from Chelmsford to
Tilbury was resisted 〃by the Bruins of the country； whose horses
were worried to death with bringing chalk through those vile
roads！〃
Arthur Young did not find the turnpike any better between Bury and
Sudbury； in Suffolk： 〃I was forced to move as slow in it；〃 he says；
〃as in any unmended lane in Wales。 For； ponds of liquid dirt； and
a scattering of loose flints just sufficient to lame every horse
that moves near them； with the addition of cutting vile grips
across the road under the pretence of letting the water off； but
without effect； altogether render at least twelve out of these
sixteen miles as infamous a turnpike as ever was beheld。〃 Between
Tetsworth and Oxford he found the so…called turnpike abounding in
loose stones as large as one's head； full of holes； deep ruts； and
withal so narrow that with great difficulty he got his chaise out
of the way of the Witney waggons。 〃Barbarous〃 and 〃execrable〃 are
the words which he constantly employs in speaking of the roads；
parish an