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autobiography and selected essays-第30章

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that; within the area of what we may call the 〃coral zone;〃 there

are no coral reefs upon the west coast of America; nor upon the

west coast of Africa; and it is a general fact that the reefs are

interrupted; or absent; opposite the mouths of great rivers。  The

causes of this apparent caprice in the distribution of coral reefs

are not far to seek。  The polypes which fabricate them require for

their vigorous growth a temperature which must not fall below 68

degrees Fahrenheit all the year round; and this temperature is only

to be found within the distance on each side of the equator which

has been mentioned; or thereabouts。  But even within the coral zone

this degree of warmth is not everywhere to be had。  On the west

coast of America; and on the corresponding coast of Africa; the

currents of cold water from the icy regions which surround the

South Pole set northward; and it appears to be due to their cooling

influence that the sea in these regions is free from the reef

builders。  Again; the coral polypes cannot live in water which is

rendered brackish by floods from the land; or which is perturbed by

mud from the same source; and hence it is that they cease to exist

opposite the mouths of rivers; which damage them in both these

ways。



Such is the general distribution of the reef…building corals; but

there are some very interesting and singular circumstances to be

observed in the conformation of the reefs; when we consider them

individually。  The reefs; in fact; are of three different kinds;

some of them stretch out from the shore; almost like a prolongation

of the beach; covered only by shallow water; and in the case of an

island; surrounding it like a fringe of no considerable breadth。

These are termed 〃fringing reefs。〃  Others are separated by a

channel which may attain a width of many miles; and a depth of

twenty or thirty fathoms or more; from the nearest land; and when

this land is an island; the reef surrounds it like a low wall; and

the sea between the reef and the land is; as it were; a moat inside

this wall。  Such reefs as these are called 〃encircling〃 when they

surround an island; and 〃barrier〃 reefs; when they stretch parallel

with the coast of a continent。  In both these cases there is

ordinary dry land inside the reef; and separated from it only by a

narrower or a wider; a shallower or a deeper; space of sea; which

is called a 〃lagoon;〃 or 〃inner passage。〃 But there is a third kind

of reef; of very common occurrence in the Pacific and Indian

Oceans; which goes by the name of 〃atoll。〃  This is; to all intents

and purposes; an encircling reef; without anything to encircle; or;

in other words; without an island in the middle of its lagoon。  The

atoll has exactly the appearance of a vast; irregularly oval; or

circular; breakwater; enclosing smooth water in its midst。  The

depth of the water in the lagoon rarely exceeds twenty or thirty

fathoms; but; outside the reef; it deepens with great rapidity to

two hundred or three hundred fathoms。  The depth immediately

outside the barrier; or encircling; reefs; may also be very

considerable; but; at the outer edge of a fringing reef; it does

not amount usually to more than twenty or twenty…five fathoms; in

other words; from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty

feet。



Thus; if the water of the ocean should be suddenly drained away; we

should see the atolls rising from the sea…bed like vast truncated

cones; and resembling so many volcanic craters; except that their

sides would be steeper than those of an ordinary volcano。  In the

case of the encircling reefs; the cone; with the enclosed island;

would look like Vesuvius with Monte Nuovo within the old crater of

Somma;'121' while; finally; the island with a fringing reef would

have the appearance of an ordinary hill; or mountain; girded by a vast

parapet; within which would lie a shallow moat。  And the dry bed of

the Pacific might afford grounds for an inhabitant of the moon to

speculate upon the extraordinary subterranean activity to which

these vast and numerous 〃craters〃 bore witness!



When the structure of a fringing reef is investigated; the bottom

of the lagoon is found to be covered with fine whitish mud; which

results from the breaking up of the dead corals。  Upon this muddy

floor there lie; here and there; growing corals; or occasionally

great blocks of dead coral; which have been torn by storms from the

outer edge of the reef; and washed into the lagoon。  Shellfish and

worms of various kinds abound; and fish; some of which prey upon

the coral; sport in the deeper pools。  But the corals which are to

be seen growing in the shallow waters of the lagoon are of a

different kind from those which abound on the outer edge of the

reef; and of which the reef is built up。  Close to the seaward edge

of the reef; over which; even in calm weather; a surf almost always

breaks; the coral rock is encrusted with a thick coat of a singular

vegetable organism; which contains a great deal of limethe so…

called Nullipora。  Beyond this; in the part of the edge of the reef

which is always covered by the breaking waves; the living; true;

reef…polypes make their appearance; and; in different forms; coat

the steep seaward face of the reef to a depth of one hundred or

even one hundred and fifty feet。  Beyond this depth the sounding…

lead rests; not upon the wall…like face of the reef; but on the

ordinary shelving sea…bottom。  And the distance to which a fringing

reef extends from the land corresponds with that at which the sea

has a depth of twenty or five…and…twenty fathoms。



If; as we have supposed; the sea could be suddenly withdrawn from

around an island provided with a fringing reef; such as the

Mauritius;'122' the reef would present the aspect of a terrace;

its seaward face; one hundred feet or more high; blooming with the

animal flowers of the coral; while its surface would be hollowed

out into a shallow and irregular moat…like excavation。



The coral mud; which occupies the bottom of the lagoon; and with

which all the interstices of the coral skeletons which accumulate

to form the reef are filled up; does not proceed from the washing

action of the waves alone; innumerable fishes; and other creatures

which prey upon the coral; add a very important contribution of

finely…triturated calcareous matter; and the corals and mud

becoming incorporated together; gradually harden and give rise to a

sort of limestone rock; which may vary a good deal in texture。

Sometimes it remains friable and chalky; but; more often; the

infiltration of water; charged with carbonic acid; dissolves some

of the calcareous matter; and deposits it elsewhere in the

interstices of the nascent rock; thus glueing and cementing the

particles together into a hard mass; or it may even dissolve the

carbonate of lime more extensively; and re…deposit it in a

crystalline form。  On the beach of the lagoon; where the coral sand

is washed into layers by the action of the waves; its grains become

thus fused together into strata of a limestone; so hard that they

ring when struck with a hammer; and inclined at a gentle angle;

corresponding with that of the surface of the beach。  The hard

parts of the many animals which live upon the reef become imbedded

in this coral limestone; so that a block may be full of shells of

bivalves and univalves; or of sea urchins; and even sometimes

encloses the eggs of turtles in a state of petrification。  The

active and vigorous growth of the reef goes on only at the seaward

margins; where the polypes are exposed to the wash of the surf; and

are thereby provided with an abundant supply of air and of food。

The interior portion of the reef may be regarded as almost wholly

an accumulation of dead skeletons。  Where a river comes down from

the land there is a break in the reef; for the reasons which have

been already mentioned。



The origin and mode of formation of a fringing reef; such as that

just described; are plain enough。  The embryos of the coral polypes

have fixed themselves upon the submerged shore of the island; as

far out as they could live; namely; to a depth of twenty or twenty…

five fathoms。  One generation has succeeded another; building

itself up upon the dead skeletons of its predecessor。  The mass has

been consolidated by the infiltration of coral mud; and hardened by

partial solution and redeposition; until a great rampart of coral

rock one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet high on its seaward

face has been formed all round the island; with only such gaps as

result from the outflow of rivers; in the place of sally…ports。



The structure of the rocky accumulation in the encircling reefs and

in the atolls is essentially the same as in the fringing reef。

But; in addition to the differences of depth inside and out; they

present some other peculiarities。  These reefs; and especially the

atolls; are usually interrupted a
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