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had been climbing； patiently climbing； ceaselessly climbing； for days and
nights togetherand about us was gathered a convention of Nature's kings
that stood ten； twelve； and even thirteen thousand feet highgrand old
fellows who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington； in the twilight。
We were in such an airy elevation above the creeping populations of the
earth； that now and then when the obstructing crags stood out of the way
it seemed that we could look around and abroad and contemplate the whole
great globe； with its dissolving views of mountains； seas and continents
stretching away through the mystery of the summer haze。
As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley than a
suspension bridge in the cloudsbut it strongly suggested the latter at
one spot。 At that place the upper third of one or two majestic purple
domes projected above our level on either hand and gave us a sense of a
hidden great deep of mountains and plains and valleys down about their
bases which we fancied we might see if we could step to the edge and look
over。 These Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes
of cloud； which shredded away from time to time and drifted off fringed
and torn； trailing their continents of shadow after them； and catching
presently on an intercepting peak； wrapped it about and brooded there
then shredded away again and left the purple peak； as they had left the
purple domes； downy and white with new…laid snow。 In passing； these
monstrous rags of cloud hung low and swept along right over the
spectator's head； swinging their tatters so nearly in his face that his
impulse was to shrink when they came closet。 In the one place I speak
of； one could look below him upon a world of diminishing crags and
canyons leading down； down； and away to a vague plain with a thread in it
which was a road； and bunches of feathers in it which were trees；a
pretty picture sleeping in the sunlightbut with a darkness stealing
over it and glooming its features deeper and deeper under the frown of a
coming storm； and then； while no film or shadow marred the noon
brightness of his high perch； he could watch the tempest break forth down
there and see the lightnings leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain
drive along the canyon…sides； and hear the thunders peal and crash and
roar。 We had this spectacle； a familiar one to many； but to us a
novelty。
We bowled along cheerily； and presently； at the very summit （though it
had been all summit to us； and all equally level； for half an hour or
more）； we came to a spring which spent its water through two outlets and
sent it in opposite directions。 The conductor said that one of those
streams which we were looking at； was just starting on a journey westward
to the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean； through hundreds and
even thousands of miles of desert solitudes。 He said that the other was
just leaving its home among the snow…peaks on a similar journey eastward
and we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple rivulet
it would still be plodding its patient way down the mountain sides； and
canyon…beds； and between the banks of the Yellowstone； and by and by
would join the broad Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts
and unvisited wildernesses； and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among
snags and wrecks and sandbars； and enter the Mississippi； touch the
wharves of St。 Louis and still drift on； traversing shoals and rocky
channels； then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends； walled with
unbroken forests； then mysterious byways and secret passages among woody
islands； then the chained bends again； bordered with wide levels of
shining sugar…cane in place of the sombre forests； then by New Orleans
and still other chains of bendsand finally； after two long months of
daily and nightly harassment； excitement； enjoyment； adventure； and awful
peril of parched throats； pumps and evaporation； pass the Gulf and enter
into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea； never to look upon its
snow…peaks again or regret them。
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at home； and
dropped it in the stream。 But I put no stamp on it and it was held for
postage somewhere。
On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons； many tired
men and women； and many a disgusted sheep and cow。
In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I recognized
John …。 Of all persons in the world to meet on top of the Rocky
Mountains thousands of miles from home； he was the last one I should have
looked for。 We were school…boys together and warm friends for years。
But a boyish prank of mine had disruptured this friendship and it had
never been renewed。 The act of which I speak was this。 I had been
accustomed to visit occasionally an editor whose room was in the third
story of a building and overlooked the street。 One day this editor gave
me a watermelon which I made preparations to devour on the spot； but
chancing to look out of the window； I saw John standing directly under it
and an irresistible desire came upon me to drop the melon on his head；
which I immediately did。 I was the loser； for it spoiled the melon； and
John never forgave me and we dropped all intercourse and parted； but now
met again under these circumstances。
We recognized each other simultaneously； and hands were grasped as warmly
as if no coldness had ever existed between us； and no allusion was made
to any。 All animosities were buried and the simple fact of meeting a
familiar face in that isolated spot so far from home； was sufficient to
make us forget all things but pleasant ones； and we parted again with
sincere 〃good…bye〃 and 〃God bless you〃 from both。
We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky Mountains for
many tedious hourswe started down them； now。 And we went spinning away
at a round rate too。
We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains behind； and
sped away； always through splendid scenery but occasionally through long
ranks of white skeletons of mules and oxenmonuments of the huge
emigration of other daysand here and there were up…ended boards or
small piles of stones which the driver said marked the resting…place of
more precious remains。
It was the loneliest land for a grave！ A land given over to the cayote
and the ravenwhich is but another name for desolation and utter
solitude。 On damp； murky nights； these scattered skeletons gave forth a
soft； hideous glow； like very faint spots of moonlight starring the vague
desert。 It was because of the phosphorus in the bones。 But no
scientific explanation could keep a body from shivering when he drifted
by one of those ghostly lights and knew that a skull held it。
At midnight it began to rain； and I never saw anything like itindeed； I
did not even see this； for it was too dark。 We fastened down the
curtains and even caulked them with clothing； but the rain streamed in in
twenty places； nothwithstanding。 There was no escape。 If one moved his
feet out of a stream； he brought his body under one； and if he moved his
body he caught one somewhere else。 If he struggled out of the drenched
blankets and sat up； he was bound to get one down the back of his neck。
Meantime the stage was wandering about a plain with gaping gullies in it；
for the driver could not see an inch before his face nor keep the road；
and the storm pelted so pitilessly that there was no keeping the horses
still。 With the first abatement the conductor turned out with lanterns
to look for the road； and the first dash he made was into a chasm about
fourteen feet deep； his lantern following like a meteor。 As soon as he
touched bottom he sang out frantically：
〃Don't come here！〃
To which the driver； who was looking over the precipice where he had
disappeared； replied； with an injured air： 〃Think I'm a dam fool？〃
The conductor was more than an hour finding the roada matter which
showed us how far we had wandered and what chances we had been taking。
He traced our wheel…tracks to the imminent verge of danger； in two
places。 I have always been glad that we were not killed that night。
I do not know any particular reason； but I have always been glad。
In the morning； the tenth day out； we crossed Green River； a fine； large；
limpid streamstuck in it with the water just up to the top of our mail…
bed； and waited till extra teams were put on to haul us up the steep
bank。 But it was nice cool water； and besides it could not find any
fresh place on us to wet。
At the Green River station we had breakfasthot biscuits； fresh antelope
steaks； and coffeethe only decent meal we tasted between the United
States and Great Salt Lake City； and the only one we were ever really
thankful for。
Think of the monotonous execrableness of the thirty that went before it；
to leave this one simple breakfast looming up in my memory like a shot…
tower after all these years have gone by！
At five P。M。 we reached Fort Bridger； one hundred and seventeen miles
from the South Pass； and one thousand and twenty…five miles from St。
Joseph。 Fifty…two miles further on； near the head of Echo Canyon； we m