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is fiery Summer always； and you can gather roses； and eat strawberries
and ice…cream； and wear white linen clothes； and pant and perspire； at
eight or nine o'clock in the morning； and then take the cars； and at noon
put on your furs and your skates； and go skimming over frozen Donner
Lake； seven thousand feet above the valley； among snow banks fifteen feet
deep； and in the shadow of grand mountain peaks that lift their frosty
crags ten thousand feet above the level of the sea。
There is a transition for you！ Where will you find another like it in
the Western hemisphere？ And some of us have swept around snow…walled
curves of the Pacific Railroad in that vicinity； six thousand feet above
the sea； and looked down as the birds do； upon the deathless Summer of
the Sacramento Valley； with its fruitful fields； its feathery foliage；
its silver streams； all slumbering in the mellow haze of its enchanted
atmosphere； and all infinitely softened and spiritualized by distancea
dreamy； exquisite glimpse of fairyland； made all the more charming and
striking that it was caught through a forbidden gateway of ice and snow；
and savage crags and precipices。
CHAPTER LVII。
It was in this Sacramento Valley； just referred to； that a deal of the
most lucrative of the early gold mining was done； and you may still see；
in places； its grassy slopes and levels torn and guttered and disfigured
by the avaricious spoilers of fifteen and twenty years ago。 You may see
such disfigurements far and wide over Californiaand in some such
places； where only meadows and forests are visiblenot a living
creature； not a house； no stick or stone or remnant of a ruin； and not a
sound； not even a whisper to disturb the Sabbath stillnessyou will find
it hard to believe that there stood at one time a fiercely…flourishing
little city； of two thousand or three thousand souls； with its newspaper；
fire company； brass band； volunteer militia； bank； hotels； noisy Fourth
of July processions and speeches； gambling hells crammed with tobacco
smoke； profanity； and rough…bearded men of all nations and colors； with
tables heaped with gold dust sufficient for the revenues of a German
principalitystreets crowded and rife with businesstown lots worth
four hundred dollars a front footlabor； laughter； music； dancing；
swearing； fighting； shooting； stabbinga bloody inquest and a man for
breakfast every morningeverything that delights and adorns existence
all the appointments and appurtenances of a thriving and prosperous and
promising young city；and now nothing is left of it all but a lifeless；
homeless solitude。 The men are gone； the houses have vanished； even the
name of the place is forgotten。 In no other land； in modern times； have
towns so absolutely died and disappeared； as in the old mining regions of
California。
It was a driving； vigorous； restless population in those days。 It was a
curious population。 It was the only population of the kind that the
world has ever seen gathered together； and it is not likely that the
world will ever see its like again。 For observe； it was an assemblage of
two hundred thousand young mennot simpering； dainty； kid…gloved
weaklings； but stalwart； muscular； dauntless young braves； brimful of
push and energy； and royally endowed with every attribute that goes to
make up a peerless and magnificent manhoodthe very pick and choice of
the world's glorious ones。 No women； no children； no gray and stooping
veterans；none but erect； bright…eyed； quick…moving； strong…handed young
giantsthe strangest population； the finest population； the most gallant
host that ever trooped down the startled solitudes of an unpeopled land。
And where are they now？ Scattered to the ends of the earthor
prematurely aged and decrepitor shot or stabbed in street affraysor
dead of disappointed hopes and broken heartsall gone； or nearly all
victims devoted upon the altar of the golden calfthe noblest holocaust
that ever wafted its sacrificial incense heavenward。 It is pitiful to
think upon。
It was a splendid populationfor all the slow； sleepy； sluggish…brained
sloths staid at homeyou never find that sort of people among pioneers
you cannot build pioneers out of that sort of material。 It was that
population that gave to California a name for getting up astounding
enterprises and rushing them through with a magnificent dash and daring
and a recklessness of cost or consequences； which she bears unto this
dayand when she projects a new surprise； the grave world smiles as
usual； and says 〃Well； that is California all over。〃
But they were rough in those times！ They fairly reveled in gold； whisky；
fights； and fandangoes； and were unspeakably happy。 The honest miner
raked from a hundred to a thousand dollars out of his claim a day； and
what with the gambling dens and the other entertainments； he hadn't a
cent the next morning； if he had any sort of luck。 They cooked their own
bacon and beans； sewed on their own buttons； washed their own shirts
blue woollen ones； and if a man wanted a fight on his hands without any
annoying delay； all he had to do was to appear in public in a white shirt
or a stove…pipe hat； and he would be accommodated。 For those people
hated aristocrats。 They had a particular and malignant animosity toward
what they called a 〃biled shirt。〃
It was a wild； free； disorderly； grotesque society！ Menonly swarming
hosts of stalwart mennothing juvenile； nothing feminine； visible
anywhere！
In those days miners would flock in crowds to catch a glimpse of that
rare and blessed spectacle； a woman！ Old inhabitants tell how； in a
certain camp； the news went abroad early in the morning that a woman was
come！ They had seen a calico dress hanging out of a wagon down at the
camping…groundsign of emigrants from over the great plains。 Everybody
went down there； and a shout went up when an actual； bona fide dress was
discovered fluttering in the wind！ The male emigrant was visible。 The
miners said：
〃Fetch her out！〃
He said： 〃It is my wife； gentlemenshe is sickwe have been robbed of
money； provisions； everything； by the Indianswe want to rest。〃
〃Fetch her out！ We've got to see her！〃
〃But； gentlemen； the poor thing； she〃
〃FETCH HER OUT！〃
He 〃fetched her out；〃 and they swung their hats and sent up three rousing
cheers and a tiger； and they crowded around and gazed at her； and touched
her dress； and listened to her voice with the look of men who listened to
a memory rather than a present realityand then they collected twenty…
five hundred dollars in gold and gave it to the man； and swung their hats
again and gave three more cheers； and went home satisfied。
Once I dined in San Francisco with the family of a pioneer； and talked
with his daughter； a young lady whose first experience in San Francisco
was an adventure； though she herself did not remember it； as she was only
two or three years old at the time。 Her father said that； after landing
from the ship； they were walking up the street； a servant leading the
party with the little girl in her arms。 And presently a huge miner；
bearded； belted； spurred； and bristling with deadly weaponsjust down
from a long campaign in the mountains； evidently…barred the way； stopped
the servant； and stood gazing； with a face all alive with gratification
and astonishment。 Then he said； reverently：
〃Well； if it ain't a child！〃 And then he snatched a little leather sack
out of his pocket and said to the servant：
〃There's a hundred and fifty dollars in dust； there； and I'll give it to
you to let me kiss the child！〃
That anecdote is true。
But see how things change。 Sitting at that dinner…table； listening to
that anecdote； if I had offered double the money for the privilege of
kissing the same child； I would have been refused。 Seventeen added years
have far more than doubled the price。
And while upon this subject I will remark that once in Star City； in the
Humboldt Mountains； I took my place in a sort of long； post…office single
file of miners； to patiently await my chance to peep through a crack in
the cabin and get a sight of the splendid new sensationa genuine； live
Woman！ And at the end of half of an hour my turn came； and I put my eye
to the crack； and there she was； with one arm akimbo； and tossing flap…
jacks in a frying…pan with the other。
And she was one hundred and sixty…five ＇Being in calmer mood； now； I
voluntarily knock off a hundred from that。M。T。＇ years old； and hadn't a
tooth in her head。
CHAPTER LVIII。
For a few months I enjoyed what to me was an entirely new phase of
existencea butterfly idleness； nothing to do； nobody to be responsible
to； and untroubled with financial uneasiness。 I fell in love with the
most cordial and sociable city in the Union。 After the sage…brush and
alkali deserts of Washoe； San Francisco was Paradise to me。 I lived at
the best hotel； exhibited my clothes in the most conspicuous places；
infested the opera； and learned to seem enraptured with music which
oftener afflicted my ignorant ear than enchanted it； if I had had the
vulgar honesty to confess it。 However； I suppose I was not greatly worse
than the most of my countrym