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CELLARIUS。
OUR TOUR
This essay was published in the EAGLE； Vol。 1； No。 5。 in the Easter
Term； 1859。 It describes a holiday trip made by Butler in June；
1857； in company with a friend whose name； which was Joseph Green；
Butler Italianised as Giuseppe Verdi。 I am permitted by Professor
Bonney to quote a few words from a private letter of his referring
to Butler's tour： 〃It was remarkable in the amount of ground
covered and the small sum spent； but still more in the direction
taken in the first part of the tour。 Dauphine was then almost a
TERRA INCOGNITA to English or any other travellers。〃
＇From the Eagle； Vol。 1； No。 5。 Easter Term； 1859； p。 241。＇
As the vacation is near； and many may find themselves with three
weeks' time on their hand； five…and…twenty pounds in their pockets；
and the map of Europe before them； perhaps the following sketch of
what can be effected with such money and in such time； may not come
amiss to those； who； like ourselves a couple of years ago； are in
doubt how to enjoy themselves most effectually after a term's hard
reading。
To some； probably； the tour we decided upon may seem too hurried；
and the fatigue too great for too little profit； still even to these
it may happen that a portion of the following pages may be useful。
Indeed； the tour was scarcely conceived at first in its full extent；
originally we had intended devoting ourselves entirely to the French
architecture of Normandy and Brittany。 Then we grew ambitious； and
stretched our imaginations to Paris。 Then the longing for a snowy
mountain waxed； and the love of French Gothic waned； and we
determined to explore the French Alps。 Then we thought that we must
just step over them and take a peep into Italy； and so； disdaining
to return by the road we had already travelled； we would cut off the
north…west corner of Italy； and cross the Alps again into
Switzerland； where； of course； we must see the cream of what was to
be seen； and then thinking it possible that our three weeks and our
five…and…twenty pounds might be looking foolish； we would return；
via Strasburg to Paris； and so to Cambridge。 This plan we
eventually carried into execution； spending not a penny more money；
nor an hour's more time； and； despite the declarations which met us
on all sides that we could never achieve anything like all we had
intended； I hope to be able to show how we did achieve it； and how
anyone else may do the like if he has a mind。 A person with a good
deal of energy might do much more than this； we ourselves had at one
time entertained thoughts of going to Rome for two days； and thence
to Naples； walking over the Monte St。 Angelo from Castellamare to
Amalfi （which for my own part I cherish with fond affection； as
being far the most lovely thing that I have ever seen）； and then
returning as with a Nunc Dimittis； and I still think it would have
been very possible； but； on the whole； such a journey would not have
been so well； for the long tedious road between Marseilles and Paris
would have twice been traversed by us； to say nothing of the sea
journey between Marseilles and Civita Vecchia。 However； no more of
what might have been； let us proceed to what was。
If on Tuesday； June 9 ＇i。e。 1857＇； you leave London Bridge at six
o'clock in the morning； you will get （via Newhaven） to Dieppe at
fifteen minutes past three。 If on landing you go to the Hotel
Victoria； you will find good accommodation and a table d'hote at
five o'clock； you can then go and admire the town； which will not be
worth admiring； but which will fill you with pleasure on account of
the novelty and freshness of everything you meet； whether it is the
old bonnet…less； short…petticoated women walking arm and arm with
their grandsons； whether the church with its quaint sculpture of the
Entombment of our Lord； and the sad votive candles ever guttering in
front of it； or whether the plain evidence that meets one at every
touch and turn； that one is among people who live out of doors very
much more than ourselves； or what notall will be charming； and if
you are yourself in high spirits and health； full of anticipation
and well inclined to be pleased with all you see； Dieppe will appear
a very charming place； and one which a year or two hence you will
fancy that you would like to revisit。 But now we must leave it at
forty…five minutes past seven； and at twelve o'clock on Tuesday
night we shall find ourselves in Paris。 We drive off to the Hotel
de Normandie in the Rue St。 Honore； 290 （I think）； stroll out and
get a cup of coffee； and return to bed at one o'clock。
The next day we spent in Paris； and of it no account need be given；
save perhaps the reader may be advised to ascend the Arc de
Triomphe； and not to waste his time in looking at Napoleon's hats
and coats and shoes in the Louvre； to eschew all the picture rooms
save the one with the Murillos； and the great gallery； and to dine
at the Diners de Paris。 If he asks leave to wash his hands before
dining there； he will observe a little astonishment among the
waiters at the barbarian cleanliness of the English； and be shown
into a little room； where a diminutive bowl will be proffered to
him； of which more anon； let him first （as we did） wash or rather
sprinkle his face as best he can； and then we will tell him after
dinner what we generally do with the bowls in question。 I forget
how many things they gave us； but I am sure many more than would be
pleasant to read； nor do I remember any circumstance connected with
the dinner； save that on occasion of one of the courses； the waiter
perceiving a little perplexity on my part as to how I should manage
an artichoke served a la francaise； feelingly removed my knife and
fork from my hand and cut it up himself into six mouthfuls；
returning me the whole with a sigh of gratitude for the escape of
the artichoke from a barbarous and unnatural end； and then after
dinner they brought us little tumblers of warm lavender scent and
water to wash our mouths out； and the little bowls to spit into； but
enough of eating； we must have some more coffee at a cafe on the
Boulevards； watch the carriages and the people and the dresses and
the sunshine and all the pomps and vanities which the Boulevards
have not yet renounced； return to the inn； fetch our knapsacks； and
be off to the Chemin de Fer de Lyon by forty…five minutes past
seven； our train leaves at five minutes past eight； and we are
booked to Grenoble。 All night long the train speeds towards the
south。 We leave Sens with its grey cathedral solemnly towering in
the moonlight a mile on the left。 （How few remember； that to the
architect William of Sens we owe Canterbury Cathedral。）
Fontainebleau is on the right； station after station wakes up our
dozing senses； while ever in our ears are ringing as through the dim
light we gaze on the surrounding country； 〃the pastures of
Switzerland and the poplar valleys of France。〃
It is still darkas dark； that is； as the midsummer night will
allow it to be； when we are aware that we have entered on a tunnel；
a long tunnel； very longI fancy there must be high hills above it；
for I remember that some few years ago when I was travelling up from
Marseilles to Paris in midwinter； all the way from Avignon （between
which place and Chalon the railway was not completed）； there had
been a dense frozen fog； on neither hand could anything beyond the
road be descried； while every bush and tree was coated with a thick
and steadily increasing fringe of silver hoar…frost； for the night
and day； and half…day that it took us to reach this tunnel； all was
the samebitter cold dense fog and ever silently increasing hoar…
frost： but on emerging from it； the whole scene was completely
changed； the air was clear； the sun shining brightly； no hoar…frost
and only a few patches of fast melting snow； everything in fact
betokening a thaw of some days' duration。 Another thing I know
about this tunnel which makes me regard it with veneration as a
boundary line in countries； namely； that on every high ground after
this tunnel on clear days Mont Blanc may be seen。 True； it is only
very rarely seen； but I have known those who have seen it； and
accordingly touch my companion on the side； and say； 〃We are within
sight of the Alps〃； a few miles farther on and we are at Dijon。 It
is still very early morning； I think about three o'clock； but we
feel as if we were already at the Alps； and keep looking anxiously
out for them； though we well know that it is a moral impossibility
that we should see them for some hours at the least。 Indian corn
comes in after Dijon； the oleanders begin to come out of their tubs；
the peach trees； apricots； and nectarines unnail themselves from the
walls； and stand alone in the open fields。 The vineyards are still
scrubby； but the practised eye readily detects with each hour some
slight token that we are nearer the sun than we were； or； at any
rate； farther from the North Pole。 We don't stay long at Dijon nor
at Chalon； at Lyons we have an hour to wait； breakfast off a basin
of cafe au lait and a huge hunch of bread； get a miserable wash；
compared with which the spittoons of the