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of cafe au lait and a huge hunch of bread； get a miserable wash；
compared with which the spittoons of the Diners de Paris were
luxurious； and return in time to proceed to St。 Rambert； whence the
railroad branches off to Grenoble。 It is very beautiful between
Lyons and St。 Rambert。 The mulberry trees show the silkworm to be a
denizen of the country； while the fields are dazzlingly brilliant
with poppies and salvias； on the other side of the Rhone rise high
cloud…capped hills； but towards the Alps we strain our eyes in vain。
At St。 Rambert the railroad to Grenoble branches off at right angles
to the main line； it was then only complete as far as Rives； now it
is continued the whole way to Grenoble； by which the reader will
save some two or three hours； but miss a beautiful ride from Rives
to Grenoble by the road。 The valley bears the name of Gresivaudan。
It is very rich and luxuriant； the vineyards are more Italian； the
fig trees larger than we have yet seen them； patches of snow whiten
the higher hills； and we feel that we are at last indeed among the
outskirts of the Alps themselves。 I am told that we should have
stayed at Voreppe； seen the Grande Chartreuse （for which see
Murray）； and then gone on to Grenoble； but we were pressed for time
and could not do everything。 At Grenoble we arrived about two
o'clock； washed comfortably at last and then dined； during dinner a
caleche was preparing to drive us on to Bourg d'Oisans； a place some
six or seven and thirty miles farther on； and by thirty minutes past
three we find ourselves reclining easily within it； and digesting
dinner with the assistance of a little packet； for which we paid
one…and…fourpence at the well…known shop of Mr。 Bacon； Market…
square； Cambridge。 It is very charming。 The air is sweet； warm；
and sunny； there has been bad weather for some days here； but it is
clearing up； the clouds are lifting themselves hour by hour； we are
evidently going to have a pleasant spell of fine weather。 The
caleche jolts a little； and the horse is decidedly shabby； both qua
horse and qua harness； but our moustaches are growing； and our
general appearance is in keeping。 The wine was very pleasant at
Grenoble； and we have a pound of ripe cherries between us； so； on
the whole； we would not change with his Royal Highness Prince Albert
or all the Royal Family； and jolt on through the long straight
poplar avenue that colonnades the road above the level swamp and
beneath the hills； and turning a sharp angle enter Vizille； a
wretched place； only memorable because from this point we begin
definitely； though slowly； to enter the hills and ascend by the side
of the Romanche through the valley； which that river either made or
foundwho knows or cares？ But we do know very well that we are
driving up a very exquisitely beautiful valley； that the Romanche
takes longer leaps from rock to rock than she did； that the hills
have closed in upon us； that we see more snow each time the valley
opens； that the villages get scantier； and that at last a great
giant iceberg walls up the way in front； and we feast our eyes on
the long…desired sight till after that the setting sun has tinged it
purple （a sure sign of a fine day）； its ghastly pallor shows us that
the night is upon us。 It is cold； and we are not sorry at half…past
nine to find ourselves at Bourg d'Oisans； where there is a very fair
inn kept by one Martin； we get a comfortable supper of eggs and go
to bed fairly tired。
This we must remind the reader is Thursday night； on Tuesday morning
we left London； spent one day in Paris； and are now sleeping among
the Alps； sharpish work； but very satisfactory； and a prelude to
better things by and by。 The next day we made rather a mistake；
instead of going straight on to Briancon we went up a valley towards
Mont Pelvoux （a mountain nearly 14；000 feet high）； intending to
cross a high pass above La Berarde down to Briancon； but when we got
to St。 Christophe we were told the pass would not be open till
August； so returned and slept a second night at Bourg d'Oisans。 The
valley； however； was all that could be desired； mingled sun and
shadow； tumbling river； rich wood； and mountain pastures； precipices
all around； and snow…clad summits continually unfolding themselves；
Murray is right in calling the valley above Venosc a scene of savage
sterility。 At Venosc； in the poorest of hostelries was a tuneless
cracked old instrument； half piano； half harpsichordhow it ever
found its way there we were at a loss to conceiveand an irrelevant
clock that struck seven times by fits and starts at its own
convenience during our one o'clock dinner； we returned to Bourg
d'Oisans at seven； and were in bed by nine。
Saturday； June 13。
Having found that a conveyance to Briancon was beyond our finances；
and that they would not take us any distance at a reasonable charge；
we determined to walk the whole fifty miles in the day； and half…way
down the mountains； sauntering listlessly accordingly left Bourg
d'Oisans at a few minutes before five in the morning。 The clouds
were floating over the uplands； but they soon began to rise； and
before seven o'clock the sky was cloudless； along the road were
passing hundreds of people （though it was only five in the morning）
in detachments of from two to nine； with cattle； sheep； pigs； and
goats； picturesque enough but miserably lean and gaunt： we leave
them to proceed to the fair； and after a three miles' level walk
through a straight poplar avenue； commence ascending far above the
Romanche； all day long we slowly ascend； stopping occasionally to
refresh ourselves with vin ordinaire and water； but making steady
way in the main； though heavily weighted and under a broiling sun；
at one we reach La Grave； which is opposite the Mont de Lans； a most
superb mountain。 The whole scene equal to anything in Switzerland；
as far as the mountains go。 The Mont de Lans is opposite the
windows； seeming little more than a stone's throw off； and causing
my companion （whose name I will； with his permission； Italianise
into that of the famous composer Giuseppe Verdi） to think it a mere
nothing to mount to the top of those sugared pinnacles which he will
not believe are many miles distant in reality。 After dinner we
trudge on； the scenery constantly improving； the snow drawing down
to us； and the Romanche dwindling hourly； we reach the top of the
Col du Lautaret； which Murray must describe； I can only say that it
is first…class scenery。 The flowers are splendid； acres and acres
of wild narcissus； the Alpine cowslip； gentians； large purple and
yellow anemones； soldanellas； and the whole kith and kin of the high
Alpine pasture flowers； great banks of snow lie on each side of the
road； and probably will continue to do so till the middle of July；
while all around are glaciers and precipices innumerable。
We only got as far as Monetier after all； for； reaching that town at
half…past eight； and finding that Briancon was still eight miles
further on； we preferred resting there at the miserable but cheap
and honest Hotel de l'Europe； had we gone on a little farther we
should have found a much better one； but we were tired with our
forty…two miles' walk； and； after a hasty supper and a quiet pipe；
over which we watch the last twilight on the Alps above Briancon； we
turn in very tired but very much charmed。
Sunday morning was the clearest and freshest morning that ever
tourists could wish for； the grass crisply frozen （for we are some
three or four thousand feet above the sea）； the glaciers descending
to a level but little higher than the road； a fine range of Alps in
front over Briancon； and the road winding down past a new river （for
we have long lost the Romanche） towards the town； which is some six
or seven miles distant。
It was a fetethe Fete du bon Dieu； celebrated annually on this day
throughout all this part of the country； in all the villages there
were little shrines erected； adorned with strings of blue
corncockle； narcissus heads； and poppies； bunches of green； pink；
and white calico； moss and fir…tree branches； and in the midst of
these tastefully arranged bowers was an image of the Virgin and her
Son； with whatever other saints the place was possessed of。
At Briancon； which we reached （in a trap） at eight o'clock； these
demonstrations were more imposing； but less pleasing； the soldiers；
too； were being drilled and exercised； and the whole scene was one
of the greatest animation； such as Frenchmen know how to exhibit on
the morning of a gala day。
Leaving our trap at Briancon and making a hasty breakfast at the
Hotel de la Paix； we walked up a very lonely valley towards
Cervieres。 I dare not say how many hours we wended our way up the
brawling torrent without meeting a soul or seeing a human
habitation； it was fearfully hot too； and we longed for vin
ordinaire； Cervieres seemed as though it never would comestill the
same rugged precipices； snow…clad heights； brawling torrent； and
stony road； butterflies beautiful and innumerable； flowers to match；
sky cloudless。 At last we are there； through the town； or rather
village； the river rushes furiously； the dismant