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Mementos of Boabdil。
WHILE my mind was still warm with the subject of the unfortunate
Boabdil; I set forth to trace the mementos of him still existing in
this scene of his sovereignty and misfortunes。 In the Tower of
Comares; immediately under the Hall of Ambassadors; are two vaulted
rooms; separated by a narrow passage; these are said to have been
the prisons of himself and his mother; the virtuous Ayxa la Horra;
indeed; no other part of the tower would have served for the
purpose。 The external walls of these chambers are of prodigious
thickness; pierced with small windows secured by iron bars。 A narrow
stone gallery; with a low parapet; extends along three sides of the
tower just below the windows; but at a considerable height from the
ground。 From this gallery; it is presumed; the queen lowered her son
with the scarfs of herself and her female attendants during the
darkness of the night to the hillside; where some of his faithful
adherents waited with fleet steeds to bear him to the mountains。
Between three and four hundred years have elapsed; yet this scene of
the drama remains almost unchanged。 As I paced the gallery; my
imagination pictured the anxious queen leaning over the parapet;
listening; with the throbbings of a mother's heart; to the last echoes
of the horses' hoofs as her son scoured along the narrow valley of the
Darro。
I next sought the gate by which Boabdil made his last exit from
the Alhambra; when about to surrender his capital and kingdom。 With
the melancholy caprice of a broken spirit; or perhaps with some
superstitious feeling; he requested of the Catholic monarchs that no
one afterwards might be permitted to pass through it。 His prayer;
according to ancient chronicles; was complied with; through the
sympathy of isabella; and the gate was walled up。*
* Ay una puerta en la Alhambra por la qual salio Chico Rey de los
Moros; quando si rindio prisionero al Rey de Espana D。 Fernando; y
le entrego la ciudad con el castillo。 Pidio esta principe como por
merced; y en memoria de tan importante conquista; al que quedasse
siempre cerrada esta puerta。 Consintio en allo el Rey Fernando; y
des de aquel tiempo no solamente no se abrio la puerta sino tambien se
construyo junto a ella fuerte bastion。… MORERI'S Historical
Dictionary。
'There was a gate in the Alhambra by which Chico the King of the
Moors went out when he gave himself up as a prisoner to the King of
Spain; Don Ferdinand; and surrendered to him the city and the
castle。 This prince asked as a favor; and in memory of such an
important conquest; that this portal always remain closed。 King
Ferdinand consented to this; and from that time not only was the
gate not opened but also a strong bastion was constructed around it。'
I inquired for some time in vain for such a portal; at length my
humble attendant; Mateo Ximenes; said it must be one closed up with
stones; which; according to what he had heard from his father and
grandfather; was the gateway by which King Chico had left the
fortress。 There was a mystery about it; and it had never been opened
within the memory of the oldest inhabitant。
He conducted me to the spot。 The gateway is in the centre of what
was once an immense pile; called the Tower of the Seven Floors (la
Torre de los Siete Suelos)。 It is famous in the neighborhood as the
scene of strange apparitions and Moorish enchantments。 According to
Swinburne the traveller; it was originally the great gate of entrance。
The antiquaries of Granada pronounce it the entrance to that quarter
of the royal residence where the king's bodyguards were stationed。
It therefore might well form an immediate entrance and exit to the
palace; while the grand Gate of Justice served as the entrance of
state to the fortress。 When Boabdil sallied by this gate to descend to
the Vega; where he was to surrender the keys of the city to the
Spanish sovereigns; he left his vizier Aben Comixa to receive; at
the Gate of Justice; the detachment from the Christian army and the
officers to whom the fortress was to be given up。*
* The minor details of the surrender of Granada have been stated
in different ways even by eye…witnesses。 The author; in his revised
edition of the Conquest; has endeavored to adjust them according to
the latest and apparently best authorities。
The once redoubtable Tower of the Seven Floors is now a mere
wreck; having been blown up with gunpowder by the French; when they
abandoned the fortress。 Great masses of the wall lie scattered
about; buried in luxuriant herbage; or overshadowed by vines and
fig…trees。 The arch of the gateway; though rent by the shock; still
remains; but the last wish of poor Boabdil has again; though
unintentionally; been fulfilled; for the portal has been closed up
by loose stones gathered from the ruins; and remains impassable。
Mounting my horse; I followed up the route of the Moslem monarch
from this place of his exit。 Crossing the hill of Los Martyros; and
keeping along the garden wall of a convent bearing the same name; I
descended a rugged ravine beset by thickets of aloes and Indian
figs; and lined with caves and hovels swarming with gipsies。 The
descent was so steep and broken that I was fain to alight and lead
my horse。 By this via dolorosa poor Boabdil took his sad departure
to avoid passing through the city; partly; perhaps; through
unwillingness that its inhabitants should behold his humiliation;
but chiefly; in all probability; lest it might cause some popular
agitation。 For the last reason; undoubtedly; the detachment sent to
take possession of the fortress ascended by the same route。
Emerging from this rough ravine; so full of melancholy associations;
and passing by the puerta de los molinos (the gate of the mills); I
issued forth upon the public promenade called the Prado; and
pursuing the course of the Xenil; arrived at a small chapel; once a
mosque; now the Hermitage of San Sebastian。 Here; according to
tradition; Boabdil surrendered the keys of Granada to King
Ferdinand。 I rode slowly thence across the Vega to a village where the
family and household of the unhappy king awaited him; for he had
sent them forward on the preceding night from the Alhambra; that his
mother and wife might not participate in his personal humiliation;
or be exposed to the gaze of the conquerors。 Following on in the route
of the melancholy band of royal exiles; I arrived at the foot of a
chain of barren and dreary heights; forming the skirt of the Alpuxarra
mountains。 From the summit of one of these the unfortunate Boabdil
took his last look at Granada; it bears a name expressive of his
sorrows; la Cuesta de las Lagrimas (the Hill of Tears)。 Beyond it; a
sandy road winds across a rugged cheerless waste; doubly dismal to the
unhappy monarch; as it led to exile。
I spurred my horse to the summit of a rock; where Boabdil uttered
his last sorrowful exclamation; as he turned his eyes from taking
their farewell gaze; it is still denominated el ultimo suspiro del
Moro (the last sigh of the Moor)。 Who can wonder at his anguish at
being expelled from such a kingdom and such an abode? With the
Alhambra he seemed to be yielding up all the honors of his line; and
all the glories and delights of life。
It was here; too; that his affliction was embittered by the reproach
of his mother; Ayxa; who had so often assisted him in times of
peril; and had vainly sought to instil into him her own resolute
spirit。 〃You do well;〃 said she; 〃to weep as a woman over what you
could not defend as a man〃; a speech savoring more of the pride of the
princess than the tenderness of the mother。
When this anecdote was related to Charles V by Bishop Guevara; the
emperor joined in the expression of scorn at the weakness of the
wavering Boabdil。 〃Had I been he; or he been I;〃 said the haughty
potentate; 〃I would rather have made this Alhambra my sepulchre than
have lived without a kingdom in the Alpuxarra。〃 How easy it is for
those in power and prosperity to preach heroism to the vanquished! how
little can they understand that life itself may rise in value with the
unfortunate; when nought but life remains I
Slowly descending the 〃Hill of Tears;〃 I let my horse take his own
loitering gait back to Granada; while I turned the story of the
unfortunate Boabdil over in my mind。 In summing up the particulars I
found the balance inclining in his favor。 Throughout the whole of
his brief; turbulent; and disastrous reign; he gives evidence of a
mild and amiable character。 He; in the first instance; won the
hearts of his people by his affable and gracious manners; he was
always placable; and never inflicted any severity of punishment upon
those who occasionally rebelled against him。 He was personally
brave; but wanted moral courage; and; in times of difficulty and
perplexity; was wavering and irresolute。 This feebleness of spirit
h