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perplexity； was wavering and irresolute。 This feebleness of spirit
hastened his downfall； while it deprived him of that heroic grace
which would have given grandeur and dignity to his fate； and
rendered him worthy of closing the splendid drama of the Moslem
domination in Spain。
Public Fetes of Granada。
MY DEVOTED squire and whilom ragged cicerone Mateo Ximenes； had a
poor…devil passion for fates and holidays； and was never so eloquent
as when detailing the civil and religious festivals of Granada。 During
the preparations for the annual Catholic fete of Corpus Christi； he
was in a state of incessant transition between the Alhambra and the
subjacent city； bringing me daily accounts of the magnificent
arrangements that were in progress； and endeavoring； but in vain； to
lure me down from my cool and airy retreat to witness them。 At length；
on the eve of the eventful day I yielded to his solicitations and
descended from the regal halls of the Alhambra under his escort； as
did of yore the adventure…seeking Haroun Alraschid； under that of
his Grand Vizier Giaffar。 Though it was yet scarce sunset； the city
gates were already thronged with the picturesque villagers of the
mountains； and the brown peasantry of the Vega。 Granada has ever
been the rallying place of a great mountainous region； studded with
towns and villages。 Hither； during the Moorish domination； the
chivalry of this region repaired； to join in the splendid and
semi…warlike fetes of the Vivarrambla； and hither the elite of its
population still resort to join in the pompous ceremonials of the
church。 Indeed； many of the mountaineers from the Alpuxarras and the
Sierra de Ronda； who now bow to the cross as zealous Catholics； bear
the stamp of their Moorish origin； and are indubitable descendants
of the fickle subjects of Boabdil。
Under the guidance of Mateo； I made my way through streets already
teeming with a holiday population； to the square of the Vivarrambla；
that great place for tilts and tourneys； so often sung in the
Moorish ballads of love and chivalry。 A gallery or arcade of wood
had been erected along the sides of the square； for the grand
religious procession of the following day。 This was brilliantly
illuminated for the evening as a promenade； and bands of music were
stationed on balconies on each of the four facades of the square。
All the fashion and beauty of Granada； all of its population of either
sex that had good looks or fine clothes to display； thronged this
arcade； promenading round and round the Vivarrambla。 Here； too； were
the majos and majas； the rural beaux and belles； with fine forms；
flashing eyes； and gay Andalusian costumes； some of them from Ronda
itself； that strong…hold of the mountains； famous for contrabandistas；
bull…fighters； and beautiful women。
While this gay but motley throng kept up a constant circulation in
the gallery； the centre of the square was occupied by the peasantry
from the surrounding country； who made no pretensions to display；
but came for simple； hearty enjoyment。 The whole square was covered
with them； forming separate groups of families and neighborhoods； like
gipsy encampments； some were listening to the traditional ballad
drawled out to the tinkling of the guitar； some were engaged in gay
conversation； some were dancing to the click of the castanet。 As I
threaded my way through this teeming region with Mateo at my heels；
I passed occasionally some rustic party； seated on the ground；
making a merry though frugal repast。 If they caught my eye as I
loitered by； they almost invariably invited me to partake of their
simple fare。 This hospitable usage； inherited from their Moslem
invaders； and originating in the tent of the Arab； is universal
throughout the land； and observed by the poorest Spaniard。
As the night advanced； the gayety gradually died away in the
arcades； the bands of music ceased to play； and the brilliant crowd
dispersed to their homes。 The centre of the square still remained well
peopled； and Mateo assured me that the greater part of the
peasantry； men； women； and children； would pass the night there；
sleeping on the bare earth beneath the open canopy of heaven。
Indeed； a summer night requires no shelter in this favored climate；
and a bed is a superfluity； which many of the hardy peasantry of Spain
never enjoy； and which some of them affect to despise。 The common
Spaniard wraps himself in his brown cloak； stretches himself on his
manta or mule…cloth； and sleeps soundly； luxuriously accommodated if
he can have a saddle for a pillow。 In a little while the words of
Mateo were made good； the peasant multitude nestled down on the ground
to their night's repose； and by midnight； the scene on the Vivarrambla
resembled the bivouac of an army。
The next morning； accompanied by Mateo； I revisited the square at
sunrise。 It was still strewed with groups of sleepers： some were
reposing from the dance and revel of the evening； others； who had left
their villages after work on the preceding day； having trudged on foot
the greater part of the night； were taking a sound sleep to freshen
themselves for the festivities of the day。 Numbers from the mountains；
and the remote villages of the plain； who had set out in the night；
continued to arrive with their wives and children。 All were in high
spirits； greeting each other and exchanging jokes and pleasantries。
The gay tumult thickened as the day advanced。 Now came pouring in at
the city gates； and parading through the streets； the deputations from
the various villages； destined to swell the grand procession。 These
village deputations were headed by their priests； bearing their
respective crosses and banners； and images of the blessed Virgin and
of patron saints； all which were matters of great rivalship and
jealousy among the peasantry。 It was like the chivalrous gatherings of
ancient days； when each town and village sent its chiefs； and
warriors； and standards； to defend the capital； or grace its
festivities。
At length all these various detachments congregated into one grand
pageant； which slowly paraded round the Vivarrambla； and through the
principal streets； where every window and balcony was hung with
tapestry。 In this procession were all the religious orders； the
civil and military authorities； and the chief people of the parishes
and villages： every church and convent had contributed its banners；
its images； its relics； and poured forth its wealth for the
occasion。 In the centre of the procession walked the archbishop； under
a damask canopy； and surrounded by inferior dignitaries and their
dependants。 The whole moved to the swell and cadence of numerous bands
of music； and； passing through the midst of a countless yet silent
multitude； proceeded onward to the cathedral。
I could not but be struck with the changes of times and customs；
as I saw this monkish pageant passing through the Vivarrambla； the
ancient seat of Moslem pomp and chivalry。 The contrast was indeed
forced upon the mind by the decorations of the square。 The whole front
of the wooden gallery erected for the procession； extending several
hundred feet； was faced with canvas； on which some humble though
patriotic artist had painted； by contract； a series of the principal
scenes and exploits of the Conquest； as recorded in chronicle and
romance。 It is thus the romantic legends of Granada mingle
themselves with every thing； and are kept fresh in the public mind。
As we wended our way back to the Alhambra； Mateo was in high glee
and garrulous vein。 〃Ah； senor；〃 exclaimed he； 〃there is no place in
all the world like Granada for grand ceremonies （funciones grandes）； a
man need spend nothing on pleasure here； it is all furnished him
gratis。 Pero； el dia de la Toma！ ah； senor！ el dia de la Toma！〃 〃But
the day of the Taking！ ah； senor； the day of the Taking〃… that was the
great day which crowned Mateo's notions of perfect felicity。 The Dia
de la Toma； I found； was the anniversary of the capture or taking
possession of Granada； by the army of Ferdinand and Isabella。
On that day； according to Mateo； the whole city is abandoned to
revelry。 The great alarm bell on the watchtower of the Alhambra （la
Torre de la vela）； sends forth its clanging peals from morn till
night； the sound pervades the whole Vega； and echoes along the
mountains； summoning the peasantry from far and near to the
festivities of the metropolis。 〃Happy the damsel；〃 says Mateo； 〃who
can get a chance to ring that bell； it is a charm to insure a
husband within the year。〃
Throughout the day the Alhambra is thrown open to the public。 Its
halls and courts； where the Moorish monarchs once held sway； resound
with the guitar and castanet； and gay groups； in the fanciful
dresses of Andalusia； perform their traditional dances inherited
from the Moors。
A grand procession； emblematic of the taking possession of the city；
moves t