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from the Moors。
A grand procession； emblematic of the taking possession of the city；
moves through the principal streets。 The banner of Ferdinand and
Isabella； that previous relic of the Conquest； is brought forth from
its depository； and borne in triumph by the Alferez mayor； or grand
standard…bearer。 The portable camp…altar； carried about with the
sovereigns in all their campaigns； is transported into the chapel
royal of the cathedral； and placed before their sepulchre； where their
effigies lie in monumental marble。 High mass is then performed in
memory of the Conquest； and at a certain part of the ceremony the
Alferez mayor puts on his hat； and waves the standard above the tomb
of the conquerors。
A more whimsical memorial of the Conquest is exhibited in the
evening at the theatre。 A popular drama is performed； entitled AVE
MARIA； turning on a famous achievement of Hernando del Pulgar；
surnamed 〃el de las Hazanas〃 （he of the exploits）； a madcap warrior；
the favorite hero of the populace of Granada。 During the time of the
siege； the young Moorish and Spanish cavaliers vied with each other in
extravagant bravadoes。 On one occasion this Hernando del Pulgar； at
the head of a handful of followers； made a dash into Granada in the
dead of the night； nailed the inscription of AVE MARIA with his dagger
to the gate of the principal mosque； a token of having consecrated
it to the Virgin； and effected his retreat in safety。
While the Moorish cavaliers admired this daring exploit； they felt
bound to resent it。 On the following day； therefore； Tarfe； one of the
stoutest among them； paraded in front of the Christian army；
dragging the tablet bearing the sacred inscription AVE MARIA； at his
horse's tail。 The cause of the Virgin was eagerly vindicated by
Garcilaso de la Vega； who slew the Moor in single combat； and elevated
the tablet in devotion and triumph at the end of his lance。
The drama founded on this exploit is prodigiously popular with the
common people。 Although it has been acted time out of mind； it never
fails to draw crowds； who become completely lost in the delusions of
the scene。 When their favorite Pulgar strides about with many a mouthy
speech； in the very midst of the Moorish capital； he is cheered with
enthusiastic bravos； and when he nails the tablet to the door of the
mosque； the theatre absolutely shakes with the thunders of applause。
On the other hand； the unlucky actors who figure in the part of the
Moors； have to bear the brunt of popular indignation； which at times
equals that of the Hero of La Mancha； at the puppet…show of Gines de
Passamonte； for； when the infidel Tarfe plucks down the tablet to
tie it to his horse's tail； some of the audience rise in fury； and are
ready to jump upon the stage to revenge this insult to the Virgin。
By the way； the actual lineal descendant of Hernando del Pulgar
was the Marquis de Salar。 As the legitimate representative of that
madcap hero； and in commemoration and reward of this hero's exploit；
above mentioned； he inherited the right to enter the cathedral on
certain occasions； on horseback； to sit within the choir； and to put
on his hat at the elevation of the host； though these privileges
were often and obstinately contested by the clergy。 I met him
occasionally in society； he was young； of agreeable appearance and
manners； with bright black eyes； in which appeared to lurk some of the
fire of his ancestors。 Among the paintings in the Vivarrambla； on
the fete of Corpus Christi； were some depicting； in vivid style； the
exploits of the family hero。 An old gray…headed servant of the Pulgars
shed tears on beholding them； and hurried home to inform the
marquis。 The eager zeal and enthusiasm of the old domestic only
provoked a light laugh from his young master； whereupon； turning to
the brother of the marquis； with that freedom allowed in Spain to
old family servants； 〃Come； senor；〃 cried he； 〃you are more
considerate than your brother； come and see your ancestor in all his
glory！〃
In emulation of this great Dia de la Toma of Granada； almost every
village and petty town of the mountains has its own anniversary；
commemorating； with rustic pomp and uncouth ceremonial； its
deliverance from the Moorish yoke。 On these occasions； according to
Mateo； a kind of resurrection takes place of ancient armor and
weapons； great two…handed swords； ponderous arquebuses with
matchlocks； and other warlike relics； treasured up from generation
to generation； since the time of the Conquest； and happy the community
that possesses some old piece of ordnance； peradventure one of the
identical lombards used by the conquerors； it is kept thundering along
the mountains all day long； provided the community can afford
sufficient expenditure of powder。
In the course of the day； a kind of warlike drama is enacted。 Some
of the populace parade the streets； fitted out with the old armor；
as champions of the faith。 Others appear dressed up as Moorish
warriors。 A tent is pitched in the public square； inclosing an altar
with an image of the Virgin。 The Christian warriors approach to
perform their devotions； the infidels surround the tent to prevent
their entrance； a mock fight ensues； the combatants sometimes forget
that they are merely playing a part； and dry blows of grievous
weight are apt to be exchanged。 The contest； however； invariably
terminates in favor of the good cause。 The Moors are defeated and
taken prisoners。 The image of the Virgin； rescued from thraldom； is
elevated in triumph； a grand procession succeeds； in which the
conquerors figure with great applause and vainglory； while their
captives are led in chains； to the evident delight and edification
of the spectators。
These celebrations are heavy drains on the treasuries of these petty
communities； and have sometimes to be suspended for want of funds；
but； when times grow better； or sufficient money has been hoarded
for the purpose； they are resumed with new zeal and prodigality。
Mateo informed me that he had occasionally assisted at these fetes
and taken a part in the combats； but always on the side of the true
faith； 〃Porque senor；〃 added the ragged descendant of the cardinal
Ximenes； tapping his breast with something of an air； 〃porque senor；
soy Cristiano viejo。〃
Local Traditions。
THE COMMON people of Spain have an Oriental passion for
story…telling； and are fond of the marvellous。 They will gather
round the doors of their cottages in summer evenings； or in the
great cavernous chimney…corners of the ventas in the winter； and
listen with insatiable delight to miraculous legends of saints；
perilous adventures of travellers； and daring exploits of robbers
and contrabandistas。 The wild and solitary character of the country；
the imperfect diffusion of knowledge； the scarceness of general topics
of conversation； and the romantic adventurous life that every one
leads in a land where travelling is yet in its primitive state； all
contribute to cherish this love of oral narration； and to produce a
strong infusion of the extravagant and incredible。 There is no
theme； however； more prevalent and popular than that of treasures
buried by the Moors； it pervades the whole country。 In traversing
the wild sierras； the scenes of ancient foray and exploit； you
cannot see a Moorish atalaya； or watchtower； perched among the cliffs；
or beetling above its rock…built village； but your muleteer； on
being closely questioned； will suspend the smoking of his cigarillo to
tell some tale of Moslem gold buried beneath its foundations； nor is
there a ruined alcazar in a city but has its golden tradition；
handed down from generation to generation among the poor people of the
neighborhood。
These； like most popular fictions； have sprung from some scanty
groundwork of fact。 During the wars between Moor and Christian which
distracted this country for centuries； towns and castles were liable
frequently and suddenly to change owners； and the inhabitants；
during sieges and assaults； were fain to bury their money and jewels
in the earth； or hide them in vaults and wells； as is often done at
the present day in the despotic and belligerent countries of the East。
At the time of the expulsion of the Moors also； many of them concealed
their most precious effects； hoping that their exile would be but
temporary； and that they would be enabled to return and retrieve their
treasures at some future day。 It is certain that from time to time
hoards of gold and silver coin have been accidentally digged up； after
a lapse of centuries； from among the ruins of Moorish fortresses and
habitations； and it requires but a few facts of the kind to give birth
to a thousand fictions。
The stories thus originating have generally something of an Oriental
tinge； and are marked with that mixture of the Arabic and the Gothic
which seems to me to characterize every thing in Spain； a