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Cyprus； as I Saw it in 1879
by Sir Samuel W。 Baker
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I。 ARRIVAL AT LARNACA
CHAPTER II。 THE GIPSY…VANS ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES
CHAPTER III。 ROUTE TO NICOSIA
CHAPTER IV。 THE MESSARIA
CHAPTER V。 START FOR THE CARPAS
CHAPTER VI。 CAPE ST。 ANDREA
CHAPTER VII。 KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST
CHAPTER VIII。 ROUTE TO BAFFO
CHAPTER IX。 FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL
CHAPTER X。 THE WINE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL
CHAPTER XI。 FROM LIMASOL TO THE MOUNTAINS
CHAPTER XII。 THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA
CHAPTER XIII。 WOODS AND FORESTS
CHAPTER XIV。 REMARKS ON IRRIGATION
CHAPTER XV。 LIFE AT THE MONASTERY OF TROODITISSA
CHAPTER XVI。 SOMETHING ABOUT TAXATION
CHAPTER XVII。 THE DISTRICT OF LIMASOL AND LANDOWNERS
CHAPTER XVIII。 ON POLICE； WAGES； FOOD； CLIMATE； ETC。
CHAPTER XIX。 POLITICAL REFLECTIONS
CHAPTER XX。 CONCLUSION
APPENDIX
INTRODUCTION。
I do not intend to write a history of Cyprus； as authorities already
exist that are well known； but were generally neglected until the
British occupation rescued them from secluded bookshelves。 Even had I
presumed to write as a historian； the task would have been impossible；
as I am at this moment excluded from the world in the precincts of the
monastery of Trooditissa among the heights of ancient Olympus or modern
Troodos； where books of reference are unknown； and the necessary data
would be wanting。 I shall recount my personal experience of this island
as an independent traveller； unprejudiced by political considerations；
and unfettered by the responsible position of an official。 Having
examined Cyprus in every district； and passed not only a few days； but
winter； spring； and summer in testing the climatic and geographical
peculiarities of the country； I shall describe 〃Cyprus as I saw it in
1879；〃 expressing the opinions which I formed upon the spot with the
results of my experience。
Although I have read many works upon this island； I have no books with
me except that interesting record of the discovery of antiquities by
General di Cesnola； and the invaluable compilation for the Intelligence
Branch； Quartermaster…General's Department； Horse Guards； by Captain
Savile； 18th Royal Irish Regiment。 It is impossible to praise the latter
work too highly； as every authority； whether ancient or modern； has been
studied； and the information thus carefully collected has been classed
under special headings and offered to the reader in a concise and
graphic form which renders it perfect as a book of reference。 I must
express my deep appreciation of the assistance that I have derived from
Captain Savile's work； as it has directed my attention to many subjects
that might have escaped my observation； and it has furnished me with
dates； consular reports； and other statistical information that would
otherwise have been difficult to obtain。 The study of M。 Gaudrey's able
report to the French government upon the agricultural resources and the
geological features of Cyprus； before I commenced my journey； guided me
materially in the interesting observations of the various formations and
terrestrial phenomena。 The experiences of the late British Consul； Mr。
Hamilton Lang； described in his attractive volume； together with those
of Von Loher； Doctors Unger and Kotschy； have afforded me an advantage
in following upon footsteps through a well…examined field of discovery。
Before I enter upon a description of my personal examination of the
island； it will be advisable to trace a brief outline of the
geographical position of Cyprus； which caused its early importance in
the history of the human race； and which has been accepted by the
British government as sufficiently unchanged to warrant a military
occupation in 1878； as a strategical point that dominates the eastern
portion of the Mediterranean； and supplies the missing link in the chain
of fortified ports from England to the shores of Egypt。
In the world's infancy oceans were unknown seas upon which the vessels
of the ancients rarely ventured beyond the sight of land； without the
compass the interminable blue water was a terrible wilderness full of
awe and wonder。 The Phoenicians； who first circumnavigated Africa by
passing through the then existing canal between Suez and the Nile；
coasted the whole voyage； as did in later years the famous Portuguese；
Vasco di Gama； and stations were formed along the shores at convenient
intervals。 Hanno the Carthaginian coasted to an uncertain and contested
point upon the western shores of Africa； but no ocean commercial port
was known to have existed in the early days of maritime adventure。 The
Mediterranean offered peculiar advantages of physical geography； its
great length and comparatively narrow width embraced a vast area； at the
same time that it afforded special facilities for commerce in the
numerous ports and islands that would form a refuge in stress of
weather。
The countries which surrounded this great inland sea were rich； the
climate throughout its course combined the temperate with almost
tropical； according to the changes of seasons； accordingly； the
productions of the earth varying upon the northern and southern coasts；
were all that could be required for the necessities of the human race。
In this happily situated position commerce was first cradled； and by the
interchange of ideas and natural productions； artificial wants were
mutually created among the various countries around the great sea
margin； the supply of these new requirements and exchange of commodities
established trade。 With the development of commerce； wealth and
prosperity increased； nations became important through the possession of
superior harbours and geographical positions； and the entire maritime
strength and commercial activity of the ancient world was represented by
the Mediterranean。 The Phoenicians of Tyre and Sidon were the English of
to…day； the Egyptians and the Greeks were followed as the world grew
older by the Venetians and Genoese； and throughout the world's history
no point possessed a more constant and unchangeable attraction from its
geographical position and natural advantages than the island of Cyprus；
which in turn was occupied by Phoenicians； Greeks； Egyptians； Persians；
Romans； Byzantine rulers； Saracens； Byzantine rulers again； English；
Lusignans； Venetians； Turks； and once more English in 1878。
The advantages which had thus possessed a magnetic influence in
attracting towards this island the leading nations of the world were in
ancient days undeniable。 When vessels directed their course only by
well…known landmarks； or by the position of certain stars； it was highly
necessary for a maritime power to occupy a continuous chain of stations；
where； in case of danger from a superior force； a place of refuge would
be near。 Cyprus from its peculiar geographical position commanded the
eastern portion of the Mediterranean。 The harbour of Famagousta was only
a few hours' sail； with a favourable wind； to the coast of Asia Minor。
The bays of Larnaca and Limasol were roadsteads with a safe anchorage；
and Paphos （Baffo） was a convenient harbour upon the south…western
portion of the island； capable of protecting a considerable number of
the small vessels of the period。 Thus Cyprus possessed two harbours upon
the south coast in addition to good roadsteads； while upon the north；
Cerinea （Kyrenia） and Soli； although never large； were serviceable ports
of refuge； exactly facing the coast of Caramania； plainly visible。 The
lofty mountains of the Carpas range which overhang these harbours
command the sea view at an elevation of between three and four thousand
feet； from which the approach of an enemy could be quickly signalled；
while the unmistakable peaks of the rugged sky…line formed landmarks by
which vessels could steer direct to the desired ports。 The same
advantage of descrying an enemy at a distance from the shore exists in
many parts of Cyprus； owing to the position of the heights； and the
rocky nature of the coast （with the exception of a few points such as
Limasol； Morphu Bay； &c。）； rendered the landing of a large force
extremely difficult。 As a strategical point； there was no more
formidable position than Cyprus； it formed a common centre within
immediate reach of Alexandria and all the coasts of Syria and Asia
Minor。 It was not only a military place d'armes； such as Malta and
Gibraltar now are； dependent upon maritime superiority for the necessary
provisions； but it was a country of large area； comprising about 3500
square miles； with a soil of unbounded fertility in a high state of
cultivation； a population sufficiently numerous for all requirements of
the island； and forests of timber that was in great request for the
architect and ship…builder。 In addition to these natural sources of
wealth； the mineral productions were celebrated from the earliest
history； and the copper of Cyprus was used by the Phoenicians in the
manufacture of their celebrated bronze。
The Chittim wood of Scriptu