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should be looked upon as the enemy's camp。
My amiable bullock…driver； the big Georgi； had always assured me that
〃game abounded in the immediate neighbourhood of Dali；〃 of course I knew
that the happy hunting…ground contained some special interest for
himself。 Upon arrival on the outskirts I ordered the vans to pass on the
outside of the town； and I would seek a camping…place up…stream。 Instead
of this I was assured that we should pass through the town； and find a
lovely grove of olive…trees by the river…side； the perfection of a
halting…place。 For the first time I now discovered that Georgi's wife
and family lived in Dali； and that he was not such a fool as he looked。
In a few minutes we were descending a lane so narrow that the gipsy van
only cleared the walls of the houses on either side by three or four
inches。 This lane had been paved centuries ago with stones of all sizes；
from a moderate grindstone to that of a football。 When people had wished
to build a new house； they had taken up a few stones to make a
foundation； the street was a series of pitfalls filled with mud and
filth； including miniature ponds of manure…coloured water。 The surface
appeared impassable； the projecting water…spouts from the low roofs
stuck out like the gnarled boughs of trees。 Here was a pretty mess！all
because Georgi's wife was in town。 It was impossible for anything larger
than a perambulator to turn； and as the springs yielded to the uneven
ground； the van bumped against the walls of the houses and threatened
destruction。 〃Halt！〃 was the only word； and as the drag…shoe was on the
wheel； we stopped。 At this moment of difficulty a priest and some old
women appeared with earthen vessels smoking with burning olive leaves；
they immediately passed the smoke beneath the nostrils of the oxen； then
around the van； and lastly ourselves。 At the same time some good young
women threw orange…flower water over my wife and myself from pretty
glass vases with narrow necks as a sign of welcome。 The incense of the
priests was supposed to avert the 〃evil…eye〃 from the gipsy van and our
party。 I felt much obliged for the good intention； but I did not mind
the 〃evil eye〃 so much as the water…spouts。 In my experience of
travelling I never met with such kind and courteous people as the
inhabitants of Cyprus。 The Dali population had already blocked the
narrow streets from curiosity at our arrival； and soon understanding the
cause of our dilemma； they mounted the housetops and tore off the
obstructing water…spouts； where these projections were too strong； they
sawed them off close to the eaves。 A crowd of men pushed the van from
behind； and guided the oxen； while others assisted by digging up the
large paving…stones that would have tilted it against the house…walls。
In this manner we arrived without serious accident upon the bank of the
river which ran through the town。 There was an open space here which was
crowded with women and girls； who； with feminine curiosity； had
assembled to see the English lady。 Among these was the prettiest young
woman I have seen in Cyprus； with a child in her arms。 Her large blue
eyes and perfect Grecian features were enhanced by a sweet gentle
expression of countenance。 She seemed more than others delighted at our
arrival。 This was Georgi's wife！and I at once forgave him for
deceiving us and yielding to the natural attraction of his home。
We were not quite out of our difficulty。 Several hundred people had
assembled； and all spoke at once； raising their voices in the hope that
we should understand their Greek better than if spoken in a moderate
tone： （why people will speak loud if you do not know their language I
cannot understand：） but as we were utterly ignorant of their meaning we
were not confused by their differences of opinion respecting our
direction。 It ended in our crossing the stony bed of the river； through
which a reduced stream only a few inches deep flowed in the centre； and
having with difficulty gained the opposite bank a hundred yards distant；
we soon arrived in a sort of natural eel…trap formed by a narrow avenue
of gigantic olive…trees； the branches of which effectually barred our
progress and prevented the vans from turning。
A temporary loss of temper was a natural consequence； and having ridden
in advance for about half a mile； I returned and ordered a retreat。 We
took the bullocks out； and by hand backed the wheels； until by shovels
and picks we could clear a space for turning。 We then re…crossed the
river； and disregarding all native advice； struck into the country； and
halted near a small grove of olives close to the new English road to the
military station 〃Mattiati。〃
It was the 4th of February； and the temperature in the morning and
evening was too cold （43 degrees） for pleasant camping。 In spite of a
chilly wind； crowds of women and children surrounded our vans and sat
for hours indulging their curiosity； and shivering in light clothes of
home…made cotton…stuffs。 The children were generally pretty； and some of
the younger women were good…looking； but there was a total neglect of
personal appearance which is a striking characteristic of the Cypriote
females。 In most countries； whether savage or civilised； the women yield
to a natural instinct； and to a certain extent adorn their persons and
endeavour to render themselves attractive； but in Cyprus there is a
distressing absence of the wholesome vanity that should induce attention
to dress and cleanliness。 The inelegance of costume gives an unpleasant
peculiarity to their figuresthe whole crowd of girls and women looked
as though they were about to become mothers。 The coarse and
roughly…tanned； uncared…for high boots with huge hobnails were
overlapped by great baggy trousers。 Above these were a considerable
number of petticoats loosely hanging and tied carelessly at the waist；
which was totally unsupported by any such assistance as stays。 A sort of
short jacket that was of no particular cut； and possessed the advantage
of fitting any variety of size or figure； completed the attire。 The
buttons that should have confined the dress in front were generally
absent； and the ladies were not bashful at their loss； but exposed their
bosoms without any consciousness of indelicacy。 There was no peculiarity
in the arrangement of the hair； but each head was tied up in a cloth；
either white or some gaudy colour； which； once gay； had been sobered in
its hues by dirt。 In spite of this neglected exterior； the women had
remarkably good manners； they seldom approached my wife without
presenting； with a graceful gesture； some wild flowers； or a little
bunch of sweet herbs； which they had purposely gathered； and we were
quickly made rich in quantities of double narcissus； marigolds； and
rosemary。 Upon our arrival at a town or village the girls and boys would
frequently run to their gardens and provide themselves with either a
single flower； or rosemary； with which they would await us in the street
and offer them as we passed by。 Throughout Cyprus we have received
similar well…meant attention； and the simplicity and delicacy of the
offering contrasts in an anomalous manner with the dirty habits and
appearance of the people。 Even Georgi's pretty wife was untidy about the
hair； although she was in her best attire； and a close inspection of all
women and girls showed that their throats and breasts were literally
covered with ancient and modern fleabites。 Their dwellings are extremely
filthy； and swarm with vermin； as the fowls； goats； or even a cow or
two； generally increase the domestic party。 It is well known that Paphos
in Cyprus was the supposed birthplace of Venus； and that the island was
at one time celebrated for the beauty of women and immorality： the
change has been radical； as I believe no women are more chaste； and at
the same time less attractive； than the Cypriotes of the present time。
They are generally short and thickset； they are hardly treated by the
men； as they perform most of the rough work in cultivation of the
ground； and； from the extreme coarseness of their hands； they can seldom
be idle； the men； on the contrary； are usually good…looking； and are far
more attentive to their personal appearance。
Dali was an interesting spot to any agriculturist。 The soil was
exceedingly rich； as it had been formed； like all valleys in Cyprus； by
the alluvium washed down from the surrounding hills； these were from
three to six hundred feet above the level of the plain； and were
composed of the usual hard species of chalk and gypsum； thus the deposit
from their denudation by rains supplied the chief constituents for the
growth of vines and cereals。
There is a depressing absence of all recent improvements in journeying
through Cyprus； even at Dali； where the water from the river was used
for irrigation； and large farms in the occupation of the wealthy
landowner； M。 Richard Mattei； were successfully cultivated； I could not
help remarking the total neglect of tree…planting。 The ancient
olive…groves still exist by the river's side； and； could they speak；
those grand old trees would be historians of the glorious days of
Cyprus； but there are no recent plant