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would delay us between Dali and the high road from Larnaca to Lefkosia；
which we should intersect about half…way between the two termini。
Instead of this； after travelling for a couple of miles along a good
hardened track； we arrived at a series of trenches which effectually
stopped all progress。 Each van had a pickaxe and shovel； therefore we
all set to work in rapid relief of each other to level the obstructions；
and by this hard exercise the thermometer appeared to rise quickly from
the low temperature of the morning。 The oxen were good； and by dint of
our united exertions in heaving the wheels and pushing behind； we
dragged the vans through the soft ground that had filled the ditches；
and then slowly travelled across ploughed fields and alternate plains of
a hard surface covered with abominable thistles。
We passed on our left a large farm that exhibited a wonderful contrast
to the general barrenness of the country。 The fields were green with
young wheat and barley； and numerous sakyeeahs or cattle…wheels for
raising water supplied the means of unfailing irrigation。 I believe this
property belonged to Mr。 Mattei； and there could be no stronger example
of the power that should be developed throughout this island to render
it independent of precarious seasons。 It is a simple question of a first
outlay that is absolutely necessary to ensure the crops。 Throughout the
barren plain of Messaria water exists in unfailing quantity within a few
yards of the parched surfacethus at the same time that the crops are
perishing from the want of rain； the roots are actually within a few
feet of the desired supply。 The cattle…wheels of Cyprus are very
inferior to the sakyeeah of Egypt； but are arranged upon a similar
principle； by a chain of earthenware pots or jars upon a rope and wheel；
which； revolving above a deep cistern； ascend from the depth below； and
deliver the water into a trough or reservoir upon the surface。 From the
general reservoir small watercourses conduct the stream to any spot
desired。 This is the most ancient system of artificial irrigation by
machinery； and it is better adapted for the requirements of this country
than any expensive European inventions。 As I shall devote a chapter
specially to the all…important question of irrigation； I shall postpone
further remarks upon the cattle…wheel； but the farm in question which
formed a solitary green oasis in the vast expanse of withered surface
was a sufficient example of the necessity； and of the fruitful result of
this simple and inexpensive method。 It is a mere question of outlay； and
the government must assist the cultivators by loans for the special
erection of water…wheels。 But of this more hereafter。
At about six miles from Dali we struck the road between Larnaca and
Lefkosia （or Nicosia）。 The newly…established mail…coach with four horses
passed us； with only one passenger。 We met it again on the following
day； with a solitary unit； and it appeared that the four horses on many
occasions had no other weight behind them than the driver and the
letters。 With this instance of inertia before their eyes； certain
lunatics （or WISE CONTRACTORS） suggested the necessity of a railway for
twenty…eight miles to connect the two capitals！ The mail had an
ephemeral existence； and after running fruitlessly to and fro for a few
months； it withdrew altogether； leaving an abundant space in Cyprus for
my two vans； without the slightest chance of a collision upon the new
highway； as there were no other carriages on the roads； excepting the
few native two…wheeled carts。
We halted five miles from Lefkosia； where a new stone bridge was in
process of construction and was nearly completed。 We had already passed
a long and extremely narrow Turkish bridge across the river about four
miles in our rear。 By pacing I made the new bridge twenty…nine feet； the
same width as the road； and I could not help thinking that a much less
expensive commencement would have been sufficient to meet the
requirements of the country。 In Cyprus the rainfall is generally slight
and the earth is tenacious； and in dry weather exceedingly hard； if half
the width of the road had been carefully metalled in the first instance；
a great expense would have been saved at a time when the island was
sadly in want of money； the natural surface of the firm soil would have
been preferred by all vehicles except during rain； when they would have
adopted the metalled parallel way。 It is easy to criticise after the
event； and there can be no doubt that upon our first occupation of the
island a much greater traffic was expected； and the road between the two
capitals was arranged accordingly。 We halted for the night at the new
stone bridge； which； as usual in Cyprus； spanned a channel perfectly
devoid of water。 On the following morning we marched to Lefkosia； and
passing to the left of the walled town； we reached the newly…erected
Government House； about a mile and a half distant； where we received a
kind and hospitable welcome from the High Commissioner； Sir Garnet； and
Lady Wolseley。
The position of the new Government House was well chosen。 The character
of the dreary plain of Messaria is the same throughout； flat
table…topped hills of sedimentary calcareous limestone； abounding with
fossil shells； represent the ancient sea…bottom； which has been
upheaved。 The surface of these table…heights is hard for a depth of
about six feet； forming an upper stratum of rock which can be used for
building； beneath this are marls and friable cretaceous stone； which
during rains are washed away。 The continual process of undermining by
the decay of the lower strata has caused periodical disruption of the
hard upper stratum； which has fallen off in huge blocks and rolled down
the rough inclines that form the sides。 As the water during heavy rains
percolates through the crevices of the upper stratum； it dissolves the
softer material beneath； and oozing through the steep inclination；
carries large quantities in solution to the lower level and deposits
this fertilising marl upon the plain below。 In this manner the low
ground of the rich but dreary Messaria has been formed through the decay
and denudation of the higher levels； and the process will continue until
the present table…topped hills shall be entirely washed away。 The stone
of the upper surface； which forms a hard crust to the friable strata
beneath； is in many places merely the roof of caverns which have been
hollowed out by the action of water as described。
The Government House was erected upon one of these flat…topped hills in
a direct line about 1900 yards from the nearest portion of Lefkosia。 It
was a wooden construction forming three sides of a quadrangle。 The
quarters for the military staff were wooden huts； and the line of
heights thus occupied could not fail to attract the eye of a soldier as
a splendid strategical position； completely commanding Lefkosia and the
surrounding country。 From this point an admirable view was presented
upon all sides。 The river Pedias （the largest in Cyprus）； when it
possessed water； would flow for about 270 degrees of a circle around the
base of the position； the sides of the hill rising abruptly from the
stream。 The dry shingly bed was about 120 yards in width； and although
destitute of water at this point； sufficient was obtained some miles
higher up the river to irrigate a portion of the magnificent plain which
bordered either side。 Sir Garnet Wolseley was endeavouring to put a new
face on the treeless surface； and had already planted several acres of
the Eucalyptus globulus and other varieties on the lower ground； while
date…palms of full growth had been conveyed bodily to the natural
terrace around the Government House and carefully transplanted into
pits。 This change was a considerable relief to the eye； and the trees；
if well supplied with water； will in a few years create a grove where
all was barrenness。
The view from each portion of the terrace is exceedingly interesting； as
it commands a panorama for a distance of nearly thirty miles。 On the
north is the range of mountains； about twelve miles distant； which form
the backbone of Cyprus； and run from east to west； attaining the height
of 3400 feet。 This is a peculiar geological feature in the island； as it
is the only instance of compact （or jurassic） limestone。 Through my
powerful astronomical telescope I could plainly distinguish every rock；
and the Castle of Buffavento upon the summit of the perpendicular crags
afforded an interesting object； although invisible to the naked eye。 The
south and east presented a miserable aspect in the brown desert…like
plain of Messaria； broken by the numerous flat…topped hills to which I
have already alluded。 On the west the important mountain…range which
includes Troodos bounded the view by the snow…capped heights of the
ancient Mount Olympus； between which several chains of lower hills
formed a dark base of plutonic rocks； which contrasted with the painful
glare of the immediate foreground。 The highest points of this range are
Troodos； 6590 feet； Adelphe； 5380 feet； Makhera； 4730 feet。 These are
the measurements as they appear upon the