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months； and is secluded from the more active portions of the island。 It
IS； simply because it WAS； but it should remain as a vestige of the
past； and no longer represent the capital。 *
（The census of Nicosia； taken on 31st January； 1879； represents the
population as follows：
No。 of houses： 2；463
Population by sex：
Males above 15 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 3；773
Males under 15 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 1；900
Females above 14 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 3；718
Females under 14 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 1；806
Total。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 11；197
Population by religion：
English 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 28
Greek Church。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 5；251
Catholics 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 121
Mohammedans 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 5；628
Armenians 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 166
Jews。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 3
Total 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 11；197 ）
There is no position throughout the plain of Messaria adapted for a
permanent government establishment as head…quarters。 The depressing
effect of that horrible landscape； embracing the extensive area from
Trichomo and Famagousta to Larnaca； Lefkosia； and Morphu； is most
demoralising； and few Europeans would be able to resist the deleterious
climate of summer； and the general heart…sinking that results in a
nervous despondency when the dreary and treeless plain is ever present
to the view。 There is no reason why officials should be condemned to the
purgatory of such a station when Cyprus possesses superior positions
where the great business of the future will be conducted。 The new road
already completed from Larnaca to Lefkosia must be carried on to Morphu；
and thus connect the north and south extremities of the plain； Kyrenia；
sixteen miles distant； must be connected with Lefkosia； branches must
then be extended to Kythrea and to Famagousta； and subsequently； from
the latter town a direct road must be continued parallel with the south
coast to Larnaca。 Such roads may be constructed for about 350 pounds per
mile at the low rate of labour in Cyprus； considering the presence of
stone throughout the district； and their completion will open the entire
plain of Messaria to wheeled communication with four ports； to north and
south。
CHAPTER IV。
THE MESSARIA。
Having passed a week with our kind hosts； Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley；
at Government House； which formed a most agreeable contrast to the
friendless life that we had been leading； the vans once more started en
route for Kythrea； Famagousta； and the Carpas district。 I had hired a
good； sure…footed pony for my wife and a powerful mule for myself； and；
having given the vans a start of several hours； we followed in the
afternoon。
The treeless expanse of the Messaria produces nothing but cereals and
cotton； teams of oxen were at work in all directions ploughing； and
otherwise preparing the thistle…covered surface； and the atmosphere was
so delusively clear that Kythrea； twelve miles distant； appeared close
to us。 Upon these boundless flats an object may be seen as distinctly as
though upon the water； and we soon descried in the far distance a dark
spot； which the binocular glass； if at sea； would have pronounced to be
the stern of a vessel that had lost her masts； keeping the same course
as ourselves； this was the gipsy…van； which should have already arrived
at Kythrea； where I had expected to have found the camp arranged； dinner
cooked； and everything ready for our reception。 Something had happened；
as the other van was not in sight。
It was impossible to dignify the route by the name of a 〃road；〃 as it
presented an uneven surface and occasionally branched into several
independent tracks； which re…united after an eccentric course of a few
hundred yards； these were caused by droves of mules which in wet weather
had endeavoured to select a better line than the deeply…trodden mud in
the central road。 Fortunately the surface was now hard； and we cantered
on； fully expecting some disaster to at least one of our vehicles。 Upon
our arrival we found a crowd of people yelling and shouting their
utmost； while they were engaged in company with four oxen harnessed in
dragging and pushing the blue van up a new road which they had scarped
out of the precipitous bank of a river about forty feet deep； this
accounted for only one van being in sight； as the other was in the dry
bed of the river。 These good people had been working for several hours
in making a road where none existed； and assured me that the large
bridge over the Pedias was unsafe for so great a weight； and therefore
it was advisable to cross at the present spot。 The banks consisted of
the alluvium of ages free from stones； therefore it was easy to cut an
incline； but as many tons of earth had been removed； the operation had
required much labour； and many hands had collected from the adjacent
villages upon seeing the dilemma。
The blue van was in the middle of the crowd； the oxen answered to the
inspiriting shouts； and more especially to the ceaseless pricks of the
driving sticks； and presently it was dragged safely to the level of the
opposite bank。 A few alterations in the new road were necessary for the
larger gipsy…van； and taking the drag…shoe off the blue van； we were
thus enabled to secure both the hind…wheels for the steep descent。 By
careful management； after one or two narrow escapes from capsising； we
succeeded in landing the Noah's Ark safely by its fellow； amidst the
cheers of the good…natured crowd。
The delay had been great； and the evening was drawing near： we were
about seven miles from the upper portion of Kythrea； where we had
proposed to camp； and the route was partly across country； to avoid
layers of natural rock which in successive ridges made it impossible for
the vans to keep the track。 Several deep watercourses intervened； which
required the spade and pickaxe； and it was quite dark when we were
obliged to halt about a mile from Kythrea。
On the following morning Mr。 Kitchener； Lieutenant of the Royal
Engineers； called at our camp； and was kind enough to pilot us to the
celebrated springs about three miles above the village。 This able and
energetic officer was engaged； together with Mr。 Hippersly of the same
corps； in making the trigonometrical survey of the island； and they were
quartered in a comfortable house on the outskirts of the town。 With this
excellent guide； who could explain every inch of the surrounding
country； we started upon a most interesting ride。 The entire
neighbourhood was green with abundant crops of cereals； some of which at
this early season were eighteen inches high。 The effect of irrigation
could be traced for several miles into the plain and along the base of
the mountain range； until by degrees the green became more faint； and
gradually but surely merged into the dead brown which denoted
barrenness； where the water…power was expended by absorption。
It was impossible to form any idea of the extent of Kythrea from the
outside view。 A succession of large villages with fields highly
cultivated covered the surface at the base of the mountains； but the
true Kythrea was partially concealed by the curious ravine through which
the water of the springs is conducted by aqueducts until it reaches the
lower ground。 For a distance of three miles this ravine is occupied by
houses and gardens； all of which are supplied by the stream； which turns
thirty…two water…mills in its course。 The water…wheels in Cyprus are
horizontal turbines； and I have only met with one over…shot wheel in the
island； this is on the estate of M。 Mattei at Kuklia。
The range of mountains exactly above the village exhibits a peculiar
example of the effect of water…wash for about two hundred feet from the
base。 From the heights at Government House； twelve miles distant； I had
observed through the telescope a curious succession of conical heaps
resembling volcanic mounds of hardened mud； these rose one above the
other along the base of the hills like miniature mountain…ranges。 Even
when near Kythrea I could not understand the formation； until we found
ourselves riding through the steep ravine which holds the watercourse
and ascending by a narrow path among the countless hills that I have
described。 Both sides of the gorge； and also the deep bottom； are
occupied by houses with fruitful gardens； rich in mulberry； orange；
lemon； apricots； olives； forming groves of trees that in summer must be
delightful。 Sometimes after clambering up steep and stony paths which
had originally been paved we entered into villages； the roofs of the
houses BELOW us upon our left； and the doors of others upon our right；
so close to the narrow path as scarcely to admit the passage of a loaded
mule。 The water rushed along the bottom in a rapid stream； plunging from
the adit below one turbine to a temporary freedom in a natural channel；
from which it was quickly captured and led into an aqueduct of masonry
to another mill at a lower level。 All the inhabitants had turned out to
see an English lady； and the usual welcome was exhibited by sprinkling
us with rose and orange…flower water as we passed； the omnipresent dogs
yelled and barked with their usual