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some vast subterranean caverns in the limestone form natural reservoirs；
which supply the celebrated springs of Kythrea throughout the year。〃
I believe these few words contain the real secret of the springs； which
have been； and still are； considered to have a mysterious origin。 Some
people indulge in the theory that the water is forced by hydraulic
pressure at the superior altitude of Caramania in Asia Minor； and
passing by a subterranean conduit far beneath the bottom of the
intervening channel； it ascends at the peculiar rock…mouth of Kythrea。
This is simple nonsense； and can only be accepted by those who adore the
unreal； instead of the guide； 〃common…sense。〃 The actual volume of the
outflow at Kythrea has never been calculated； although the problem is
most simple； but a cursory examination is sufficient to explain the
origin of the supply which a certain superficial mountain area collects
and stores during the rainy seasons： to yield gradually through some
small aperture or leak in a grand subterranean reservoir。
In all countries where water is scarce； unfailing springs are objects of
veneration； and are clothed not only with undying verdure； but with a
continuous growth of legends： from the day when Moses smote the rock in
the wilderness； and the stream gushed forth to the thirsty Israelites；
to the present hour； water； which is man's first necessity； will in
drought…smitten countries be hailed with more than usual reverence。 The
devout Mussulman sinks a well and erects a fountain for the public good；
and his friends bury his body in the neighbourhood of his last act。
〃Rest； weary pilgrim； rest and pray
For the kind soul of Sybil Grey；
Who built this Cross and Well。〃
Christian and Mahommedan； and all creeds and races； men and animals；
yield unanimously to the great want； which in a thirsty land alone will
bring the lion and the lamb to drink in the same stream。 I have myself
seen in moonlight； animals of various and conflicting natures revelling
in the rest of nature's armistice； drinking in crowds at the solitary
pool； the only source of water in the desert。
The Cypriotes in their natural love of the marvellous insist upon the
mystery attached to the Kythrea springs； but they attach no importance
to the extensive subterranean water…stores of the Messaria plain； simply
because they do not see it issue from the ground： still the fact is
there； the water in vast quantities always exists； and were it tapped at
a higher level； it would flow （as it actually does in certain places）；
and exhibit the same principle upon a much larger scale than the
romantic and picturesque mountain springs of Kythrea。
As we increased our altitude the scenery improved in interest： we were
no longer in barren mounds of water…washed debris； but the rich soil
among the dark grey rocks gave birth to numerous shrubs； including the
evergreen mastic； arbutus； and the dwarf cypress。 Although the route was
only marked by the continual tracks of the lime…burner's mules； our
sturdy animals mounted the steep rocky ascents with comparative ease；
and skirted the deep water…worn ravines without missing a footstep。
Heaps of rough crumbling rocks resembling cairns attracted my attention
on all sides； these were the rude lime…kilns； and at an elevation of
about a thousand feet above Kythrea we came upon the families of
lime…burners who for several generations have resided in these heights；
either in caves； or rude huts； according to the conditions of the
locality。 Women and girls were hard at work with strong grubbing…axes；
digging out the roots of brushwood from among the rocks and making them
into faggots； as fuel for burning the grey limestone。 The work was most
laborious； and I was struck by the great thickness of the roots of
comparatively small shrubs。 Upon regarding the surface； no bushes
appeared sufficiently substantial for the use of fuel； but in fact a
they had for centuries been cut and hacked to a degree that reduced them
superficially to mere saplings； while the ancient roots had increased in
size。 The great piles of limestone were only partially reduced to lime
by the rough method and the scant fuel employed； but I admired the
industry of these poor people； who were working like the Israelites for
Pharaoh； 〃making bricks without straw。〃 Some of the girls were pretty；
but in figure they were mere rag…dolls in locomotion。
The lime was conveyed by donkeys to the lower country； and we presently
arrived at a snow…white heap lying in the centre of the path；it was
explained； that； during the heavy shower of yesterday； a donkey was
carrying his usual burthen of quick…lime； when he was overtaken by the
rain； which slaked the load； and it was necessary to immediately abandon
it； to save the animal from burning。
After an hour and a half's scramble we turned to the right beneath a
perpendicular cliff of exquisite colouring on our left； combining the
bright red which denoted the presence of iron； with the dark purple and
the silvery grey of the Jura limestone。 On our right was a deep and
precipitous ravine； sparsely covered with evergreen shrubs。 In this
spot； metamorphic rocks lay in rough and huge blocks of various shapes
and colours； and while examining these I was struck by the presence of
the rare and peculiar green marble known as verde antica。 In the
immediate neighbourhood I discovered great masses of the same stone； but
minus the green base； exhibiting at the same time the characteristics of
irregular mosaic in the angular fragments of white； black； and various
coloured pieces which appeared to be artificially inlaid。 These marbles；
especially the true verde antica； would be exceedingly valuable if cut
into slabs and exported； and there would be little difficulty in
constructing a feasible route for camels； which would convey with ease
large slabs secured in frames slung upon either side。
A few yards above this spot we arrived at a solitary cypress…tree； which
in density of foliage resembled a yew…tree in an English churchyard。
Close to this rare object was an aperture in the rocks upon the right
hand； a few roughly…hewn steps enabled us to descend into a narrow cave；
where water dripped from the roof； and formed a feeble stream； which was
led through crevices to a cistern some yards below。 This cistern was
within a few feet of the cypress…tree； and accounted for its superior
growth； as the roots had been duly nourished。 About a hundred feet above
this spot were the ruins of an ancient Greek church； that had no doubt
been associated with the holy dripping fountain； and the solitary tree
had been spared from the ruthless axes of the lime…burners through some
superstition connected with the spot。 On arrival at the crumbling ruins
of the church； we dismounted from our animals； and put them in the rude
stable of the lime…burners who had located themselves among the walls of
the once religious buildings； which they had converted into huts。
Animals could go no farther； we therefore continued the ascent on foot；
to the delight of my dogs； who seemed to think it looked more like
business。
There was a large growth of the usual shrubs arbutus； mastic； and
dwarf…cypress； and the surface of the ground was so completely covered
with masses of rock that walking was most difficult。 Notwithstanding the
apparent barrenness of the locality； we arrived at a tolerably even
surface of rich brown soil in a hollow near the shoulder of the
mountain； this had recently been cleared for cultivation by the
lime…burners to the extent of about two acres； and I remarked that both
pine…trees and cypresses as thick as a man's thigh had recently been
felled and burnt in spite of the government stringent regulations。 In
these out…of…the…way localities the natives can laugh at laws and
special enactments。
Upon arrival at the crest of the mountain； which formed a shoulder for a
peak of silvery rocks； about 100 feet above me； my aneroid showed 1830
feet above Kythrea。 From this point the view was superb； and extended
north and south from sea to sea。 There was an extraordinary contrast
upon these two divisions formed by the wall…like Carpas range upon which
we stood： to the south all was brown and desolate excepting the few
miles of green belonging to Kythrea beneath our feet。 The town of
Lefkosia stood out in bold relief； the cathedral and even the fortress
walls affording distinct outlines in the clear atmosphere； the
salt…lakes of Larnaca showed plainly in the distance； backed by the blue
sea； and the mountain of Santa Croce with the monastery upon its summit
was a well…known landmark。 This side of the mountain range was not
inviting； and if it had been exhibited before the occupation there can
be little doubt of an unfavourable impression。 We turned
〃right…about…face〃 to the north。 This was indeed a wonderful change of
aspect！ We looked down from the picturesque and precipitous wall of
mountains which stretched far away to the east and west； the sides were
covered with evergreens； through which the bold crags protruded in
rugged points； the dark indentures upon the steep slopes marked deep
ravines in which streams of wate