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rugged points； the dark indentures upon the steep slopes marked deep
ravines in which streams of water now rippled； while all on the south
were stony and exhausted。 The strip of land between the sea and the
northern base of the Carpas range was hardly three miles wide； this was
covered with well…rounded caroub…trees； whose dark green foliage gave a
rich appearance to the shore； broken by countless rocky bays and coves；
filled with the cobalt waters of the Mediterranean。 This was a lovely
scene； I could not believe that I was in Cyprusthat
whitey…brown…paper…coloured； desert； smitten； God…forsaken isle！ Upon
the left； about eight miles distant； lay the town and important port of
Kyrenia； with an apparently very little harbour； the houses surrounded
by gardens； and ornamented by date…palms backed by a perfect forest of
caroub…trees which extended for some miles。 On the extreme summit of the
crags upon our left； overlooking Kyrenia and forming an unmistakable
landmark for all sailors； was the castle of Buffavento； cutting the blue
sky…line 3240 feet above the sea。 Exactly opposite； at about sixty miles
distance； were the snow…capped mountains of Caramania； which in the
transparent atmosphere seemed to be within a day's long march。 Far； far
away along the north…eastern shore； and also towards the west； all was
lovely： I could only regret that all vessels and strangers must arrive
in the unfortunate ports of the Messaria； instead of gaining such
favourable first impressions as would be induced by the lovely picture
of Cyprus from the north。
While I had been admiring the view； my dogs had been hunting the dense
bushes to very little purpose； and although we scrambled for more than
two hours over the mountain； we only moved ten or twelve red…legged
partridges； which rose upwards of a hundred yards in front of the gun；
it was quite impossible to obtain a shot。 With an empty bag； but with a
new impression of the country since my view of the landscape in the
north； I turned homewards； and reached camp late in the afternoon； my
spaniels having no doubt a low opinion of Cyprus sport； and of the
unfair advantages taken by the ever…running red…legged partridges。
On 16th February a painful conviction was established that Cyprus was
unfitted for wheeled carriages and springs。 Although the plain appeared
flat and without natural obstacles； the ground had been completely
traversed by deep trenches for the purpose of checking and conducting
surface water to the fields in the event of a heavy shower。 Our course
should have been directly across the plain to intersect the road from
Lefkosia to Famagousta； but a glance at the intervening country showed
the impossibility of moving the vans through the miles of green crops
which were nourished by innumerable watercourses； each of which must be
levelled before we could advance。 It was therefore necessary to retrace
our steps to within a mile and a half of Lefkosia； to the point where
the main route branched to Famagousta。 This was a great waste of time；
but there was no other way of avoiding the difficulty。 Accordingly we
started； and after a few miles we cut across country to the high road；
while the vans slowly crawled along the uneven way until they reached
the turning…point。 We halted at a very desolate spot； where sheep were
housed in large numbers。 Several spacious pens were surrounded with
thorns； reminding me of the cattle zareebas of Africa； and a small
flat…topped building； built of stone and mud； formed the usual
accommodation for man and beast。 A well of clear but brackish water
supplied this rude establishment； which was surrounded by a boundless
extent of undulating ground； more or less cultivated with cereals；
which； although only a few inches above the surface； looked weak and
perishing。
The vans did not arrive until late； in the meanwhile we had sat outside
the building in the cold air； fearing to venture beneath the roof； owing
to the swarms of fleas which are sure to be 〃at home〃 in all the
miserable dwellings of this island。 At length the gipsy…van； which had
been in sight for a full hour； drew up on the flat surface in front of
the shepherd's hut； and real comfort was at once at hand。 Although the
space within was limited； the furniture was so carefully arranged that
we had plenty of room to move about。 The fall…slab table was usually
down； and was only required for writing； the chest of drawers was
American walnut： a good solid and well…seasoned wood； which did not
provoke the temper like English furniture by the drawers sticking when
in the act of opening； and leaving you in a hopeless position with a
detached handle in either hand。 This good American chest was only three
feet two inches high； therefore it formed a convenient toilette…table
beneath a window； which； curtained with muslin and crimson cloth； had an
exceedingly snug appearance； and a cushioned seat upon either side upon
the lid of a locker combined comfort with convenience。 We had a tiny
little movable camp…table that could be adjusted in two minutes； and
would dine two persons； provided that no carving was performed； and that
the dishes were handed round。 The bed was athwart…ship at the far end
beneath the stern…window； but at such a height from the floor that
several broad shelves beneath contained gun…cases； ammunition； clothes；
boots； tins of preserved provisions； and in fact everything that；
although necessary； was to be kept out of sight。 The only mistake in the
arrangements was a very large and gorgeous open…brass…work Egyptian
lantern； with glass of various colours and outlandish patterns in
Arabesque。 In the evening we formed an irregular light…house； as two
ordinary carriage…lamps were fixed above and on either side the entrance
door； while the gorgeous many…coloured lantern swung from the roof
inside； and flashed red； green； and yellow signals in wild confusion。 I
knew this piece of finery would not last long； as it would insist upon
running against everybody's head； its large size bringing it into
constant collision； but it looked well； and ornamented the van。 As it
burnt several candles the lantern became hot； which somewhat warmed the
cabin； and was a welcome increase of temperature； for although the floor
was protected by oil…cloth； upon which were double layers of Scinde
rugs； the extreme thinness of the walls made it unpleasantly cold with
the thermometer outside at 40 degrees。 The servants were saved an
immense amount of trouble by the presence of the gipsy…van； which at the
time they hardly appreciated； they had no tent…pitching upon the halt；
neither unpacking of boxes； nor arranging of beds； nor any of the usual
work connected with a daily camp。 It is impossible for the inexperienced
to appreciate the comfort of such a vehicle where the roads are
practicable； especially in bad weather； when you are perfectly certain
that your home is weather…proof and your bed dry。 Those who have
experienced the misery of a halt in pouring rain； when everybody and
everything has been sodden to the bone； when the ground is slush that
will not hold a tent…peg； the night dark； the fuel will not burn； the
matches expend themselves in vain phosphoric flashes； but will not
ignite； the water that has run down your neck has formed reservoirs
within your boots； the servants are reduced to the inactivity of
sponges； andthe tents MUST be pitched。 The heavy soaked canvas that
can hardly flap in the strong wind is at length spread over the cold
soft ground； the camp…beds； though wet as tripe； MUST be arranged； and
down go the iron legs； sinking to an unknown depth into the sodden soil！
Oh； misery； misery！ happily unknown to those who stay at home。 All this
may be avoided in a country where practicable routes exist by travelling
with a gipsy…van。 Of course you do not personally travel within your
van： it simply forms a movable home that accompanies you upon the march；
and is always there when required； while you ride independently upon
your animal。 We live and learn： and I have from experience modified my
ideas of a gipsy…van； for a roadless country such as Cyprus practically
isI should have NO SPRINGS。 If you are obliged to travel bodily within
your vehicle； there can be no doubt that springs relieve the spine； and
various indescribable portions of your anatomy； but if your simple 〃but
upon wheels〃 is to be dragged along； over； and through all kinds of
obstacles； there can be no use whatever in springs； which by their
elasticity allow your vehicle to sway from side to side； and to
seriously threaten the centre of gravity； when in a dangerous place； by
oscillation。 The cap…waggon of South Africa will go anywhere。 The
two…wheeled cart of Cyprus is a wonderfully simple affair that may be
dragged up or down the side of a mountain by a couple of oxen； the high
wheels and light but strong body surmounting all obstacles； these carts
do not carry more than twelve or fourteen hundredweight； but in an
expedition I should much prefer them to the heavy waggons of South
Africa； which； with three thousand pounds； require ten or twelve oxen。
The heavier weight in a difficulty of soft ground； or in crossing a
river