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Christo； in spite of my assurances that he had mistaken the route；
persisted that there were many； and not one； and after plunging into
muddy marshes instead of keeping to the high ground； we were completely
lost near sundown； when I happily extricated myself from the difficulty
by insisting upon his riding behind and leaving me alone to find the
track。 We arrived at nightfall； after making eighteen miles out of
twelvea profitable enterprise hardly appreciated by our tired animals。
Famagousta is too important for a cursory description； I shall therefore
reserve it for a future chapter； when on our return from the Carpas
district we pass some days in its immediate neighbourhood。
CHAPTER V。
START FOR THE CARPAS。
I determined to leave my two vans in charge of the head…man of Kuklia；
as the drivers declared it would be impossible to proceed into the
roadless Carpas with any wheeled conveyance heavier than the native
two…wheeled cart。 They had accordingly entered into a contract to supply
me with vehicles which the man of ability Theodori assured me could
travel to the extreme eastern limit of the island； Cape St。 Andrea； 〃as
he had been there himself； and knew the way。〃 Georgi； who knew nothing
of this portion of the country； believed all that Theodori said； and did
his bidding。 Having lightened the loads by leaving all that was not
absolutely necessary safely locked within the vans； we started on 1st
March with camels； in addition to two native carts； taking the route
direct east； across the extensive flat which at this time was dry and
hard。 There was nothing of interest in the day's march； the travelling
was easy along the hardened level surface； we had a clear view of the
cathedral and higher forts of Famagousta； and we passed near the ruins
of Salamis； easily distinguishing the solitary pillars that had
supported the ancient aqueduct which led the water from distant Kythrea。
Although everything was thoroughly dried up； it was easy to imagine the
effect of an inundation of the Pedias river； which had formed this delta
of alluvium； precisely as the Nile on a more extensive scale has
produced the Delta of Egypt。 There were a few wretched villages upon the
flat； which were necessarily on the poorest scale； as they existed at
the mercy of a sudden inundation。 The unhealthiness of this locality
must be extreme during wet weather； as it is only suitable to the
constitutions of frogs and ducks。 Upon arrival at higher ground on the
opposite side of the plain I looked back upon the agueish area over
which we had passed； and I had little doubt of the great engineering
necessity that must be the first step to a sanitary reform in this
pestilential neighbourhood。
As the river Pedias is a mere wayward torrent that NEVER flows as a
permanent stream； but only comes down in impulsive rushes from the
mountains during heavy rains； it has no power to cleanse its original
bed； such as would result from a constant and clear current； but； on the
contrary； the heavy floods from the upper country； being the result of a
sudden rainfall； are surcharged with earth washed down from the higher
ground and thickly held in solution。 This vast mass of soil； which adds
a corresponding weight to each gallon of water； is carried forward
according to the velocity of the stream； and is ready to deposit upon
the instant that the propelling power shall be withdrawn。 So long as the
river is confined between narrow banks； the high rate of the current is
sufficient to force forward the thickened and heavy fluid； but the
instant that the banks are over…topped and the river expands over an
increased area； the rapidity is reduced； and the water； no longer able
to contain the earth in solution； deposits alluvium； and produces a
delta； which must necessarily increase upon every future inundation。 The
result must end either in forming a bar at the mouth of the river； or
（as in the Pedias） in THE TOTAL SILTING OF THE EMBOUCHURE； which
extinguishes all traces of a broad channel； but leaves a series of deep
marshes scored by innumerable ditches； to be in their turn filled with
mud when the next flood shall extend over the wide surface and increase
the deposit。
This is the position of the Pedias； and until improved I cannot foresee
a good sanitary prospect for Famagousta； which is situated on the
borders of the swamp。 There can be only one engineering method of
preventing the silt； by confining the river between artificial banks；
within a channel sufficiently narrow to ensure a current whose velocity
would carry the heavy fluid directly into the sea。 Even should this be
accomplished； and the river be securely banked； the deposit of mud will
then take place within the sea； and will assuredly form a bar； which
will probably affect by silt the neighbouring harbour of Famagousta in
the same manner that the ancient port of Salamis has been completely
obliterated。 In any case the engineering difficulty will be costly and
uncertain； but if Famagousta is to be restored to its former importance
as a first…rate harbour； arsenal； and military station； the management
of the Pedias river must be seriously considered。
We arrived at Trichomo at about 3 P。M。 The town is built upon the sides
and summit of high ground within a mile of the sea。 The sight of a
narrow iron chimney emitting puffs of steam showed that some progress
was exhibited by the presence of an enginethis was employed in working
cotton…gins。
The houses were the usual sun…baked bricks of clay and chopped straw；
and although the town was large； there was no building of sufficient
importance to attract attention。 We rode through the streets determined
as usual to avoid the smells of a close proximity and to seek a
camping…place some distance upon the opposite side。 After passing
through the town and descending a hill； we then ascended a steep slope
which opened upon a wild country of rocky ground covered with the usual
prickly plants and scrub cypress； which had evidently been cut for fuel
until it had become mere brushwood。 There was a square mud hut on the
left hand standing in an extensive orchard of fruit…trees watered by a
cattle…wheel； and as this was the last habitation within view； we
halted； and awaited the arrival of the carts and camels。 From the summit
of the hill； about two hundred yards beyond this spot； the view was
exceedingly good； the sea lay about half a mile distant； with several
houses and gardens near the shore。 The town was in our rear； and to the
east was a fine extent of wild country covered with bush and
dwarf…cypress； which formed a marked contrast to the naked surface we
had left behind。 The rugged wall of the Carpas range was now only ten
miles distant on our left； and continued parallel to our route。 。 。 。 。
It was late when the carts arrived； and we now missed the usual luxury
of the gipsy…van。 I determined to save the servants the trouble of
erecting our tent； therefore for the first time in Cyprus we occupied
the native dwelling。 This was a square hut built of stone and mud； with
the usual hard mud roof。 From its large size it was evident that animals
shared the room with the proprietors。 An old man and a corresponding old
woman gave us a welcome； and immediately commenced sweeping out the
floor for our accommodation； this might have been thirty feet by
eighteen in width。 After a cloud of dust had risen； and by degrees
subsided； we took possession； the carts and camels arrived； beds had to
be unpacked and set up； and the servants began to reflect upon the
advantages of the van which saved them the present trouble。 It was
already dusk； but the beds were made； and Christo the cook （who was a
capital fellow for speed in preparing a dinner） was enveloped in savoury
steam； when the usual inmates of the hut quietly invaded us。 Cocks and
hens marched in； and went to roost upon some sticks within a corner； two
or three dogs arrived； evidently with the intention of staying through
the night； a donkey at length walked composedly through the entrance
door and steered for his accustomed corner。 We had caused serious
inconvenience to an unknown quantity of animals； all of whom had to be
turned out； except the poultry。 What a good thing is dinner！ The neat
tiny table was spread and the candles lighted； the dishes were simple
but excellent； we were thoroughly comfortable in this rude dwelling；
butit might have been fancyI thought something tickled my legs。
There was no mistake； something did actually not only tickle； but bite。
Something？ It was everything and everybody in the shape of fleas！ The
hut was hopping with countless swarms of these detestable vermin； from
which in our impregnable van we had hitherto been free； owing to its
great height from the ground。 Whether the unusual sweeping of the floor
had created a temporary aberration of intellect or stupefaction among
these crowds； I cannot determine； but whatever the nervous shock might
have been that had caused a short suspension of activity； they had now
completely recovered； and I shall never forget the night passed in
Trichomo。 It was the first and the last venture upon native hospitality
throughout our sojourn in