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Trichomo。 It was the first and the last venture upon native hospitality
throughout our sojourn in Cyprus； and we in future adhered either to the
tent or the gipsy…van。
On the following morning we started at 8。30。 The sky was overcast； and
in any country but this we should have expected rain。 We had now fairly
emerged upon a district entirely different from the hateful Messaria；
which has given Cyprus an unfortunate reputation。 We were quickly among
thickets of scrub and low brushwood which should have teemed with game。
My spaniels delighted in the change； and worked the bush thoroughly as
we proceeded along the route； occasionally flushing two or three
red…legged partridges。 Passing over the higher ground with the sea in
view upon our right； we descended after a march of about three miles to
the shore； where the path skirted the sea along broken rocks； against
which in bad weather the waves would dash with sufficient violence to
bar the road。 The white cliffs and hill…tops to our left were covered
with dwarf…cypress； and formed a lovely foreground above the sea；
perfectly calm beneath。 The ride was apparently short； although we had
been in the saddle three hours； as the eye had been gratified by a
constant change of scenery；from rocks washed by the blue water to
hills covered with a dense foliage of evergreens； and deep sequestered
valleys； with occasional gaps in the range of heights through which
glimpses of the sea in rocky coves burst suddenly into view。 Some of
these inlets were exceedingly picturesque； as reefs extended from the
shore； overhanging cliffs having from time to time fallen in huge crags
and formed natural breakwaters to the beach。 These narrow gaps between
the hills were generally occupied by a streamlet in the centre； which
had cut its way far below the level of the ground； the steep banks of
which were fringed with oleanders； myrtles； mastic； and other
evergreens； down to within a few yards of the breaking waves。 Nothing
could be prettier； and upon arrival within sight of Volokalida； about a
mile and a half distant in the extreme end of a narrow valley； I
directed my wife to a camping…place near the village； beneath some large
and prominent caroub…trees； while I dismounted； and with my delighted
dogs commenced a ramble over the low woods which covered the sides and
hill…tops to our right and left。 The walk was enjoyable； we had made
fourteen miles from Trichomo； and upon reaching the perfectly flat
tableland which formed the summit of the hills I had a splendid sea…view
extending for many miles along the coast。 The first object that
attracted my attention was a large steamer stranded in a cove about a
mile distant。 She looked perfectly snug； but as only her lower masts
were standing； and funnel gone； there could be no doubt of her
misadventure。 My binocular glass quickly showed that a portion of her
bulwarks was carried away； and as no chain was visible to an anchor； she
was in fact a wreck。 As I made my way through the thick bushes Merry
presently opened upon a scent； and Wise running in among the rocks；
flushed a fine francolin partridge； which I shot。 I then got a quail and
a hare； and had no other chances； although the appearance of the country
would have suggested an abundance of game。 Upon nearing the seashore I
saw that extensive sand…dunes had invaded the heights for many hundred
yards； completely choking the vegetation and forming clumps or mounds of
sand； topped by tufts of the shrubs that lay buried deep beneath。 I
walked along the fatiguing ground until I reached the shore exactly
opposite the abandoned wreck； which lay within a cove； into which she
had evidently been run for security。
My dogs found several hares among the clumps upon the sand…dunes； which
gave them some exercise and amusement； but I did not obtain a shot。
Upon my arrival at the camping…place I found my wife surrounded by a
large crowd of women and children beneath a shady tree； all of whom had
brought presents of eggs and bouquets of wild flowers。 It was difficult
to persuade these good simple people that we did not require presents as
an etiquette of introduction； they would insist upon placing their
little offerings upon the ground； and leaving them if we declined to
accept them。 The principal wild flowers were cyclamen； narcissus； and
anemone。 The cyclamen completely covered the ground throughout all the
low woods and thickets。 I could only find two varieties； the snow…white；
with claret…coloured centre； and the rose…colour； but the blossoms were
quite equal in size to those usually grown in our glass…houses in
England。 We had passed through several hundred acres of open ground that
were as white from the abundance of narcissus as an English meadow might
be yellow from the presence of buttercups。
Our camp was pitched upon a small level plateau of rock； in the centre
of which was a well； cut completely through the stone from top to
bottom。 It appeared to be about twenty…five feet deep； but was devoid of
water and contained a considerable amount of rubbish。 The people assured
me that a dead Greek lay beneath； as a few years ago some Turks had
killed one of their people and thrown him into the well； they had
concealed the body by stones and rubbish； and no further steps had been
taken in the matter。 As a large crowd of children of both sexes were
sitting round us doing nothing but stare； I set them to work to clear
the surface ground from loose stones and to sweep the plateau clean with
boughs from the wild cypress。 When this was finished I gave them a
scramble for several handfuls of copper coins upon the cleared area； to
impress them pleasantly upon their work of cleanliness； this new game
became very popular； and might be introduced by the British government
with a certainty of gaining the admiration of the Cypriotes； especially
during the collection of taxes； the latter being an Anglo…Turkish game
which is not yet sufficiently appreciated。
The women were of the same type that we had seen in other districts； but
they appeared sickly； and many of the children were extremely delicate。
There was the usual protuberance of the abdomen to which I have before
alluded； and I found upon examination of the children that an
enlargement of the spleen was a chronic complaint。 This is due to
repeated attacks of ague。 I drew the attention of the people to the so
general mistake in this island of selecting a site for their villages in
the most unhealthy localities。 We were now camped upon a height about
eighty feet above the valley； which resembled a basin beneath our feet；
the village was on the lower level of this basin； and as near the level
of the sea as possible。 In heavy rains the valley became a temporary
swamp； and it seemed unaccountable that human beings endowed with common
sense should have selected the low ground instead of the immediate
heights。 The explanation was 〃that as the village was built of
mud…bricks； the houses had been erected as near as possible to the
source of the material； MUD！〃 to avoid the difficulty of carriage in the
absence of carts。
The people were as usual dressed in cotton stuffs of home manufacture；
and were ignorant of such a material as flannel； the children were only
half…clad； and shivering； their food was generally raw； comprising
olives； oil； onions； and wild vegetables； such as artichokes； wild
mustard； and a variety of trash that in England would only be regarded
as 〃weeds。〃 There were some pretty intelligent little girls and boys；
some of these were chewing mastic gum； a white leathery substance which
they gathered from incisions in the bark of this common shrub。 My wife
found fault with the neglect of cleanliness； as their teeth； although
even； were totally uncared for。 On the following morning they all
assembled and exhibited a show of nice white teeth； as they had followed
her advice and cleaned them with wood…ashes and their forefingers； in
lieu of a toothbrush。 We saw these children again a month afterwards
upon our return； and they ran across the fields to meet us； at once
opening their mouths to show that they had not forgotten the lesson； and
that their teeth were properly attended to。 I pitied all these poor
people： they are downtrodden and miserable in mind and body。 Instead of
squeezing them for taxes they should be supported and encouraged by
government assistance in every manner possible。 Centuries of oppression
and neglect in addition to a deceptive climate have rendered them the
mere slaves of circumstances； but they exhibit a patience and stolid
endurance which is beyond all praise； and when Cyprus shall belong
absolutely to Great Britain； so that the Cypriotes shall feel that they
are British subjects； they will become the most amenable and contented
people in the Empire。
The usual difficulty exists in passing through this island which is felt
by most English travellers in wild countries。 The sick invariably
assemble； believing that your medical knowledge will produce miraculous
cures； and the lame； halt； and blind besiege you even cripples from
their birth are brought by their hopeful mothers to receive something
from your medicine…chest that