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their birth are brought by their hopeful mothers to receive something
from your medicine…chest that will restore them to strength。 It was in
vain that I explained to these afflicted people that spleen…disease
required a long course of medicine； and could not be cured in a day。 It
was equally in vain that I assured them that raw vegetables were
unwholesome for children； and that sea…bathing was invigorating to the
system： they hated bathing； so did the children； and they liked raw
vegetables。 I was obliged to give them some trifle which could neither
do harm nor good； and they went away contented。
I now discovered from the head…men of the village the cause of the wreck
which was lying in the bay。 An Austrian steamer was conveying 1200
Circassians from Constantinople to some port on the coast of Asia Minor；
when the wild horde of emigrants mutinied and threatened to murder the
chief officers。 The captain accordingly ran the vessel ashore upon this
coast； having ordered the engineer to blow up the boilers。
A great number of the mutineers perished in the attempt to land； but the
captain and officers were hospitably received by the people of
Volokalida and forwarded to Famagousta。 The vessel was pierced amidships
by a rock that had completely impaled her； otherwise she might have been
saved and repaired。
We left this village on March 4th； a heavy but welcome shower on the
preceding day having laid the dust and freshened the vegetation。 The
route lay through a hilly and rocky country covered with the usual
evergreens。 We quickly lost our way and arrived at a complete cul…de…sac
in the corner of a narrow swampy valley。 Retracing our steps we met two
men mounted on donkeys； who with extreme civility turned from their own
direction and became our guides。 We passed over a hill of solid
crystallised gypsum； which sparkled in the sun like glass； and after a
march of about ten miles through a lovely country we ascended to the
plateau of Lithrankomi and halted at the monastery。 The priest was an
agreeable； well…mannered man； and as rain had begun to fall he insisted
upon our accepting his invitation to await the arrival of our luggage
under his roof。 We visited his curious old church； which is sadly out of
repair； and the mosaic； of a coarse description； which covered an arched
ceiling； has mostly disappeared。
This was the most agreeable position that I had seen in Cyprus。 A very
extensive plateau about 400 feet above the sea formed a natural terrace
for seven or eight miles； backed by the equally flat hill…tops which
rose only half a mile behind the monastery。 These were covered with the
Pinus Maritima； none of which exceeded twenty feet in height； and
resembled a thriving young plantation in England。 From the flat
pine…covered tableland I had a very beautiful view of the sea on either
side this narrow portion of the island； and of the richly…wooded slopes
both north and south； cut by deep and dark water…riven gorges； with
white cliffs which descended to the shore。 Villages and snow…white
churches lay beneath in all directions； and the crops had a far more
favourable appearance than those of the Messaria； as this portion of the
country had experienced a superior rainfall。
It is much to be regretted that the total absence of roads excludes this
district from general communication。 We were struck by the fantastic
scenery of deep ravines； rocks covered with evergreens of varying
colours； and handsome caroub…trees which would have ornamented an
English park； mulberry…trees were very numerous； but at this season they
were barren of leaves； the only want lay in the absence of oranges and
lemons； which the priest assured me would not thrive in this locality。
For the last two months I had cordially detested Cyprus； but I was now
converted to a belief that some portions of the country were thoroughly
enjoyable； provided that a traveller could be contented with rough fare
and be accustomed to the happy independence of a camp…life with a good
tent and hardy servants。 The temperature was a little too low for
out…door existence； as it averaged 48 degrees at 7 A。M。 and 54 degrees
at 3 P。M。； which is the hottest hour of the day； but we were all well；
and free from colds； the servants had plenty of warm blankets； and the
false floor that I had arranged added greatly to their comfort when
camping upon the sodden ground。
I had become convinced that 〃the man of ability〃 Theodori had deceived
me； and that it would be impossible for the two…wheeled carts； or any
other conveyance； to travel through this country。 Our last two marches
had proved that not only would the delay be serious； but the luggage
would be destroyed by the extreme jolting over rocks and ruts； which had
already injured several of our boxes and broken some useful articles。
Every package seemed to assume an individual vitality and to attack its
neighbour； the sharp…cornered metal boxes endeavoured to tunnel through
the cases of wine and liquors； which in retaliation bumped against and
bruised their antagonists； and a few marches had already caused more
mischief than a twelvemonth's journey by camels。 The priest assured me
that it would be madness to attempt a march beyond Gallibornu； about
eleven miles in advance； and that he doubted the possibility of the
carts reaching that point； which certainly had never been visited by any
wheeled conveyances。 The honest； strong； but unintelligent driver Georgi
was innocent； and he was at the time as ignorant as myself that the true
object of the 〃man of ability〃 Theodori was to deal in cattle； which was
his reason for persisting in accompanying me into the Carpas country and
declaring that the route was practicable for carts。 We left Lithrankomi
on 5th March after a shower which made the earth slippery and the
dangerous portions of the route rather exciting for the carts。 The first
two or three miles lay along the level terrace commanding a splendid
view of the sea about four miles distant。 We passed through several
villages； and the crops looked well。 At length we emerged upon a wild
portion of the plateau which resembled a park； the surface being green
and diversified by ornamental clumps of evergreens； upon our left was
the cliff…like higher terrace which formed the table…top from which the
usual huge blocks had been detached and fallen like inverted cottages to
the lower level。 The view on our right was exceedingly interesting； as
we had now arrived upon the extreme verge of the terrace； which broke
down suddenly into a horseshoe…shaped amphitheatre； the steep sides
covered with bushes and trees； to the bottom of a valley some 300 feet
below； which drained through a narrow and richly…wooded gorge into the
neighbouring sea。
This scooping…out of the country was due to the action of water； and the
same process was gradually wearing away the upper plateaux； which by
absorbing rain became undermined as it percolated through and dissolved
the marly substratum。 The foundation of the rock surface being softened
by the water； oozed in the form of mud； and was washed down the steep
declivities； followed by the breaking…down of the unsupported upper
stratum。 This district was an admirable illustration of the decay and
denudation of surface which has produced the plain of Messaria； to which
I have already alluded； but as no sufficient area exists at a lower
level the deposit of soil is carried to the sea。 We now arrived at a
dangerous pass that defied all attempts to descend by carts。 A
succession of zigzags at an inclination of about one foot in two and a
half led down the soil of a cliff into a succession of exceedingly
narrow valleys about three hundred feet below。 In many places this
narrow path had been washed away by the same natural process that was
gradually reducing the upper level； and in the sharp angles of the
zigzags there were awkward gaps with only a few inches of slippery soil
rendered soapy by the morning's rain； a slip of the original path having
crumbled down the precipice below。 The animals were wonderfully careful；
and although a nervous person might have shuddered at some awkward
points； both mule and ponies were thoroughly self…confident and safely
carried us to the bottom。 But the carts？ These were making a circuit of
some miles across country in the endeavour to discover a practicable
route。
Although the way was difficult； it was the more agreeable as the scenery
was extremely picturesque。 The narrow valleys were without exception
cultivated； which formed a striking contrast to the exceedingly wild
heights by which they were surrounded； and I remarked that not a yard of
available land was neglected； but that small and precipitous hollows
were banked by rough stone walls； to retain the soil that would
otherwise be washed away； and to form terraces of insignificant extent
for the sake of cultivation。 Our animals could amble at five or six
miles an hour along these narrow bottoms； which made up for the delay in
descending the bad places。 My dogs were in the best spirits； as they had
moved a considerable number of partridges during this morning's march；
and they heard the peculiar loud 〃chuck…a…chuck； chuck