按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
for cultivation； far away from the eyes of all authorities。
I believe that squatting has been carried on for many years； as during
the Turkish administration a trifling annual present would have closed
the eyes of the never…too…zealous official who by such an oversight
could annually improve his pay。 Land suitable for cultivation cannot
possibly be in excess of the demand； when plots of only a few yards
square are carefully formed by the erection of stone walls to retain the
torrent…collected soil。
We were pestered with beggars throughout this district； and even the
blind saw their opportunity； their number was distressing； and they
could not account in any way for the prevalence of ophthalmia。 Some
endeavoured to explain the cause by referring it to the bright
reflection from the sea； to which they were so frequently exposed； I
assured them that sailors were seldom blind； and they proved the rule。
Dirty habits； dwellings unwashed； heaps of filth lying around their
houses and rotting in their streets； all of which during the hot dry
summer is converted into poisonous dust； and； driven by the wind； fills
the eyes； which are seldom cleansedthese are the natural causes which
result in ophthalmia。
The new camels were ready； and with six of these animals we left
Gallibornu and felt relieved to have parted with the carts； as for
several marches they had caused great delay and inconvenience。 Although
Theodori had deceived me by agreeing to conduct us direct to Cape St。
Andrea I did not like to discharge the thick…headed but innocent Georgi；
therefore I offered to pay them a certain sum which they themselves
named； per day； for the keep of their oxen； provided they should return
with their empty carts to Lithrankomi （one march） and await my return
there； after which； we would resume the original contract； and their
oxen would once more draw the vans from their station at Kuklia。
This was an extra expense； as the camels were now engaged in lieu of
carts； notwithstanding that I should have to pay for the oxen； on the
other hand； these animals were beautiful specimens of their kind； and
were thoroughly accustomed to the gipsy…van； therefore it was advisable
to retain them。 The two owners were delighted with the arrangement； and
we started for Cape St。 Andrea； while they were to return to
Lithrankomi。
The country was now thoroughly enjoyable； the recent daily showers had
freshened all vegetation； and the earth was a carpet of wild flowers；
including scarlet ranunculus； poppies； a very pretty dwarf yellow cistus
resembling bunches of primroses； cyclamen； narcissus； anemonespurple；
white； and a peculiarly bright yellow variety。
The route from Gallibornu was extremely wild and picturesque； combining
hills； glens； and occasional short glimpses of the sea between the
gorges which cleft the precipitous range upon our right。 The rounded and
sparkling tops of gypsum hills were common for the first few miles；
emerging from these； we threaded a ravine； and arrived upon the sea
beach； and continued for a considerable distance upon the margin of the
shore； the animals scrambling over fallen rocks and alternately
struggling through the deep sand and banks of sea…weed piled by a
recent gale。 We now entered upon the first pure sandstone that I had
seen； this was a coffee…brown； and formed the substratum of the usual
sedimentary limestone which capped the surface of the hill…tops。 The
appearance was peculiar； as the cliffs of brown sandstone were crusted
for a depth of about eight or ten feet by the white rock abounding with
fossil shells； while the substratum of hard sand was perfectly devoid of
all traces of organic matter。 The upheaval of a sea…bottom was clearly
demonstrated。 As the sandstone had decayed； vast fragments of the
surface rock had broken down when undermined and had fallen to the base
of the steep inclines； from the interstices of which a dense growth of
evergreens produced an agreeable harmony of colouring； combining various
shades of green with brown cliffs and white masses of disjointed
limestone。 The deep blue of the sea was a beautiful addition to this
wild scenery； and after threading our way sometimes between narrow
gorges； at other places along sequestered glens which exhibited young
crops of cereals and cultivated olive…trees； we at length arrived at a
halting…place upon the seashore； where a well of excellent water about
ten feet from the surface had been sunk upon the sea…beach within fifty
yards of the waves。
This was the best camping…ground we had had in Cyprus； for the first
time we stood upon real turf； green with recent showers； and firmly
rooted upon a rich sandy loam。 A cultivated valley lay a few hundred
yards beyond us； completely walled in by high hills covered with wild
olives； arbutus； and dwarf…cypress； and fronted by the sea。 Some fine
specimens of the broad…headed and shady caroub…trees gave a park…like
appearance to the valley； through which a running stream entered from a
ravine among the hills； and； winding through deep banks covered with
myrtles and oleanders； expended itself upon the shingly beach in the
centre of the bay。 This sheltered cove； about 300 yards across the chord
of the arc； formed rather more than a semicircle by the natural
formation of the coast； and was further improved by a long reef of hard
sandstone； which extended from either point like an artificial
breakwater。
At first sight the little bay was a tempting refuge； but upon closer
examination I observed ominous dark patches in the clear water； which
betokened dangerous reefs； and other light green portions that denoted
sandy shallows。 The cove is useful for the native small craft； but would
be unsuitable to vessels of more than seven feet draught of water。 I had
observed that francolins were more numerous since we had arrived upon
the sandstone formation； and the cock birds were calling in all
directions； the locality was so inviting that we felt inclined to remain
for a few days in such a delightful spot； but the season was too far
advanced for shooting； and I therefore confined myself to killing only
what was absolutely necessary for our food； and I invariably selected
the cock…birds of francolins。 I do not think these birds pair like the
partridge； but I believe the cock is polygamous； like the pheasant； as I
generally found that several hens were in his neighbourhood。 It is a
beautiful game bird； the male possessing a striking plumage of deep
black and rich brown； with a dark ring round the neck。 It is quite a
different variety to the mottle…breasted species that I have met with in
Mauritius； Ceylon； and the double…spur francolin that I have shot in
Africa。 It is considerably larger than the common partridge； but not
quite so heavy as the red…legged birds of Cyprus； although when flying
it appears superior。 The flesh is white and exceedingly delicate； and it
is to be regretted that so valuable a game bird is not introduced into
England。 I generally found the francolin in the low scrub； although I
have often shot it either in the cultivated fields or in the wild
prickly low plants upon the open ground which have been misnamed
heather。 The habits of this bird have nothing in common with those of
the red…legged partridge； as it is never found upon the bare rocky
hill…sides； which are the general resort of the latter annoying species；
and although the scrub bush may contain both； there is a marked
difference in their character。 The red…leg is a determined runner； and
therefore a bad game bird for the shooter； as it will run ahead when
first disturbed and rise far beyond shot range； instead of squatting
like the grey partridge and permitting a sporting shot。 The francolin is
never found upon the bare hill…sides； neither is it a runner in the
open； although it will occasionally trouble the dogs in the bush by
refusing to rise until they have followed it for some distance；
precisely as pheasants will run in covert until halted by the 〃stops〃 or
by a net。 I am not sure of the power of resistance to cold possessed by
the francolins； as they are seldom met with upon the higher mountains in
Cyprus； but are generally found upon the inferior altitudes and low
grounds： still the hazel…huhn of Austria is a species of francolin which
resists the intense cold of a central…European winter。
Only one march remained to the extreme eastern limit of Cyprus； Cape St。
Andrea； distant fourteen miles。 The country was exactly similar to that
which we had recently passed through； and although alike； it could
hardly be called monotonous； as the eye was never fatigued。 The few
inhabitants were poor to the last degree； the dwellings were mere
hovels。 We passed deep holes in the ground； the sides of which were
baked by fire； so as to resemble earthen jars about ten feet deep and
seven in diameter； with a small aperture； these were subterranean
granaries； the sure sign of insecurity before the British occupation。
The flat…topped hovels had the usual roofs of clay and chopped straw；
and projected two or three feet as eaves beyond the walls； which were of
stone and mud； exhibiting the crudest examples of masonry。 The
projecting e