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and beyond all control of bishops。 This wild country； far from all
roads； and forming the storm…washed extreme limit of the island； was
considerately out of the way of news； and the monk was absolutely
ignorant of everything that was taking place in the great outer world。
He had heard that such mischievous things as newspapers existed； but he
had never seen one； neither had that ubiquitous animal the
newspaper…correspondent ever been met with in the evergreen jungles of
Cape St。 Andrea。 His monastery was his world； and the poor inhabitants
who occupied the few miserable huts within sight of his church were his
vassals。 Although the bell of the monastery tolled and tinkled at the
required hours； he informed me that 〃nobody ever attended the service；
as the people were always engaged in looking after their animals。〃
During the conversation a sudden idea appeared to have flashed upon him；
and starting from his seat； he went quickly to his mule； and making a
dive into the large and well…filled saddle…bags； he extracted an
enormous wine…bottle that contained about a gallon； this he triumphantly
brought to us and insisted upon our acceptance。 It was in vain that we
declined the offering； the priest was obdurate； and he placed the bottle
against the entrance of the tent； which； if any one should have
unexpectedly arrived； would have presented a most convivial appearance。
Upon questioning the good monk respecting the destruction of forests
upon his domain； he informed me that 〃during the Turkish administration
he had been annually pillaged by hundreds of vessels which arrived from
the neighbouring coasts of Asia Minor and of Egypt for the express
purpose of cutting timber to be sold by weight as fire…wood at their
various ports。 He had protested in vain； there were no police； nor any
means of resistance at Cape St。 Andrea； therefore the numerous crews had
defied him； and small presents from the owners of the vessels to the
Pacha at headquarters were sufficient to ensure immunity。〃 I asked him
〃why they wasted so much excellent fire…wood； and left the boughs to
hamper the surface？〃 He replied； 〃that as the wood was sold by weight；
the dealers preferred to cut the thick stems； as they packed closely on
board the vessels； and； being green； they weighed heavy； therefore they
rejected the smaller wood and left it to rot upon the ground。〃 He
declared 〃that on several occasions the crews had quarrelled； and that
from pure spite they had set fire to the thick mass of dried boughs and
lighter wood which had spread over the surface； and destroyed immense
numbers of young trees。〃 I had observed that large tracts had been burnt
during the preceding year。 He was delighted at the English occupation；
as his property would now be protected； and in a few years the trees
would attain a considerable size。
Having passed an interesting afternoon with the new ecclesiastical
acquaintance； and tasted； immediately after his departure； the contents
of his enormous bottle （which was as instantly presented； as a 〃great
treat；〃 to the servants）； we lighted our big bonfires； and enjoyed the
blaze like children； although the showers of red sparks threatened the
destruction of the tent in the absence of Captain Shaw and the London
Fire Brigade。 After this temporary excitement in this
utter…lack…of…incident…and…everyday…monotonous…island； the fires
gradually subsided； and we all went to sleep。 There is no necessity in
Cyprus for sentries or night…watchers； the people are painfully good；
and you are a great deal too secure when travelling。 As to 〃revolvers！〃
I felt inclined to bury my pistols upon my first arrival； and to
inscribe 〃Rest in peace〃 upon the tombstone。 It would be just as absurd
to attend church in London with revolvers in your belt as to appear with
such a weapon in any part of Cyprus。 Mine were carefully concealed in
some mysterious corner of the gipsy…van； where they now lie hidden。
We had been two days at Cape St。 Andrea； and it was necessary to
right…about…face； as we could go no farther。 The monk proposed to guide
us to Rizo…Carpas； the capital of the Carpas district； therefore on 14th
March we started。
This ride of fourteen miles was the most interesting we had made since
our arrival in the island。 After returning upon our old route for about
nine miles； we struck off to the right （north） and ascended a steep
gorge between precipitous wooded heights； where the light green foliage
and the exceedingly bright red stems of numerous arbutus contrasted with
the dense masses of dark greens which entirely clothed the surface。 Upon
arrival； about 600 feet above the sea we obtained a splendid view； as a
table…topped hill of nearly equal height； with the usual steep
cliff…like sides all covered with verdure； stood prominently in the
foreground； and the deep valleys upon either side； abounding in rich
caroub…trees and olives； led directly to the sea； about six miles
distant and far below。 We now crossed the watershed； and the view
increased in beauty as it embraced a complete panorama； with the sea
upon three sides； to the north； south； and east； with the mountains of
Asia Minor in the far distance。
We arrived at Rizo…Carpas； which is situated in a gently…sloping vale
about 450 feet above the sea…level； but surrounded upon all sides by
superior heights； from which the coast of Caramania is distinctly
visible during clear weather。 The valley and slopes are highly
cultivated with cereals； and plantations of mulberry…trees for the
support of silkworms； numerous caroub…trees throughout the district give
an agreeable and prosperous appearance。 Although there is no actual
town； native dwellings are dotted over the face of the country for some
miles； ornamented by three churches； which present an air of
civilisation and prosperity。 The inhabitants were； as usual； very
polite； and as Lady Baker and myself were sitting upon a rug beneath a
tree which we had selected for the evening's halt； and waiting for the
arrival of our camels； a crowd of women and children arrived with the
ugliest and most witch…like old hag that I have ever seen。 This old
creature had brought fire and dried olive…leaves in a broken pot； with
which she immediately fumigated us by marching round several times； and
so manipulating her pot as to produce the largest volume of smoke。 This
custom； which is so general throughout Cyprus； is supposed to avert the
evil…eye； but I imagine that it originated during a period when the
plague or some other fatal epidemic was prevalent in the island； and
fumigation was supposed to act as a preventative。
There is no medicinal property in the olive…leaf； but as the tree is
practically undying； I attribute the use of the leaves as incense to be
symbolically connected with the blessing of a long life expressed to a
welcomed guest。 It is one of those vestiges of tree…worship which may be
traced in almost every country； both savage and civilised； and may be
seen exhibited in Egypt； where the almost everlasting species of aloe is
suspended above the doorway of a house as a talisman or safeguard to the
family within： the idea thus expressed； 〃As the plant never dies； may
your family last for ever。〃 We got rid of the old hag and her smoky
offering； and she became lost in the crowd which thronged around us；
this was composed of the ugliest； dirtiest； shortest； and most repulsive
lot of females that I ever saw： it was painful to look at them。
There was a general complaint that the silkworms had deteriorated； and
that the mulberry…trees had suffered from a disease which had killed
great numbers。 It appeared to me that the decay of the trees was a
sufficient reason for the inferiority of the silkworms。 This was a
serious loss to the inhabitants； as Rizo…Carpas was celebrated both for
the quality and quantity of its silk…production。
From the watershed a few hundred yards behind our camp we had a good
view of the northern coast below； which extended in a series of rocky
bays and prominent points to the west； while the entire country from the
shore to the rising ground formed a rich picture of caroub…trees and
plots of cultivation。 The hills upon which we stood； about 450 feet
above the sea； were the continuations of the long Carpas range； where
the force of the upheaval had become expended towards the east。 As we
looked westward the line of hills gradually heightened； until the
well…known points of the compact limestone were clearly distinguished
among the rugged outlines of the greater altitudes。
There was nothing of interest to induce a longer stay in Rizo…Carpas；
therefore we started on the following morning upon our return journey；
and after a lovely march of twenty miles； partly along an elevated
plateau which commanded a view of both seas north and south； and then
descending some 700 or 800 feet by a steep and interesting pass； we
arrived at Lithrankomi； after passing through Gallibornu。
To my astonishment the oxen and their drivers； instead of awaiting me at
Lithrankomi； were still at the latter village； and hearing that we had
passed through； they came on to join us； but only arrived some hours
later； at nightfall。 I discharged m