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against a search for antiquities in Cyprus had destroyed the interest
which would otherwise have been taken by travellers in such
explorations。 As I have before remarked； there are no remains to attract
attention upon the surface； but all ancient works are buried far
beneath； therefore in the absence of permission to excavate； the
practical study of the past is impossible； and it is a sealed book。
Fortunately General di Cesnola has published his most interesting
volume； combining historical sketches of ancient times with a minute
description of the enormous collection of antiquities which rewarded his
labours during ten years' research； so that if our government will
neither explore nor permit others to investigate； we have at least an
invaluable fund of information collected by those whose consular
position during the Turkish rule enabled them to make additions to our
historical knowledge。 Mr。 Hamilton Lang has also published his
experiences of a long residence in the island； during which his
successful excavations brought to light valuable relics of the past
which explain more forcibly than the leaves of a book the manners；
customs； and incidents among the various races which have made up
Cyprian history。 General di Cesnola； after quoting the legend which
connects the origin of Salamis with the arrival of a colony of Greeks
under Teucer （the son of Telamon； king of the island of Salamis） from
the Trojan expedition； continues； 〃Of the history of Salamis almost
nothing is known till we come to the time of the Persian wars； but from
that time down to the reign of the Ptolemies it was by far the most
conspicuous and flourishing of the towns of Cyprus。〃 〃Onesius seized the
government of Salamis from his brother； Gorgus； and set up an obstinate
resistance to the Persian oppression under which the island was
labouring； about 500 B。C。 In the end he was defeated by a Persian army
and fell in battle； and it was about this time； if not in consequence of
this defeat； that the dynasty of Teucer was； for a period； removed from
the government of Salamis。 As to the length of this period there is
great obscurity。 It seems； however； to be certain that with the help of
the Persians a Tyrian named Abdemon had seized the throne； and not only
paid tribute to Persia； but endeavoured to extend the Persian power over
the rest of the island。 To Salamis itself he invited Phoenician
immigrants； and introduced Asiatic tastes and habits。〃 Following upon
this usurpation came the revolt and the restoration of the Teucer
dynasty； under Evagoras； B。C。 374； and eventually upon the partition of
the empire of Alexander the Great it fell to the lot of Antigonus； after
the severe contests between Demetrius and Menelaus。
Like all ancient sea…ports of importance； Salamis was the object of
continual attacks； and by degrees its prosperity declined。 In addition
to the damage and loss by sieges； it was seriously affected by an
earthquake； and a portion disappeared beneath the sea。 The sand has
submerged a large area of the ruins which face the sea； but General di
Cesnola was able to trace the ancient wall for a distance of 6850 feet。
It is quite possible that the earthquake may have altered the conditions
of the harbour； which in former days was of considerable importance。 It
has now entirely changed； and the bay near the shore is extremely
shallow； although good anchorage exists in the roadstead in ten to
sixteen fathoms。
The high masonry piers which had supported the arches of the ancient
aqueduct from Kythrea looked like spectres of past greatness among the
silent ruins； made doubly desolate by the miserable aspect of the
withered plain around them。 A short distance from these is the church of
St。 Barnabas； raised upon the site where it is believed that the body of
the Saint was discovered； together with the Gospel of St。 Matthew。 How
the Saint and the Gospel had been preserved in the damp soil of that
neighbourhood must be left to the imagination。
Passing through the ruins of the old town with the line of the wall
distinctly visible upon the sea front； we shortly arrived at the spot
where the river Pedias should have an exit to the sea。 No sign of a
river…bed existed； but a long series of swamps； composed chiefly of
bare mud； would during wet weather have made a considerable detour
necessary； they were now dry； with the exception of two or three holes
full of muddy water； which were unconnected with any perceptible
channel。 A long stone causeway proved that occasionally the hardened mud
upon which we rode would become a lake； but from the numerous tracks of
animals the earth was preferred to the uneven and slippery pavement of
the artificial road。 The enormous quantity of mud brought down by the
Pedias during its fitful inundations had completely obliterated all
signs of an ordinary river…bed； and the deposit had produced a surface
that was scored in numerous places by the rush of water； without in any
way suggesting that we were in the neighbourhood of the largest river in
Cyprus。 The width of this muddy swamp was about two miles； and
terminated by a shallow lake upon our left。 We were now within a mile
and a quarter of Famagousta； and the ground began to rise。 It struck me
that an eminence upon our right was superior to the height of the city
walls； and I rode up to examine the position。 There was no doubt that it
commanded the lower portion of the fortress； and that a direct shell…
fire could be plunged into the rear of the guns which protect the
entrance of the harbour。 In the event of modifications being introduced
when restoring the defensive works of Famagousta； it would be necessary
to erect a powerful detached fort upon this position； which would be an
immense addition to the defences of the city； as it would enfilade the
approaches upon two sides。
The walls of Famagousta are most imposing； they are constructed of
carefully…squared stone joined with cement of such extreme hardness that
the weather has had no destructive effect。 The perimeter of the fortress
is about 4000 yards； the shape is nearly a parallelogram。 The fosse
varies in depth and width； but the minimum of the former is twenty…five
feet； and of the width eighty feet； but in some places it exceeds one
hundred and forty。 This formidable ditch is cut out of the solid rock；
which is the usual calcareous sedimentary limestone； and the stone thus
obtained has been used in the construction of the walls。 The rock
foundation would render all mining operations extremely difficult。 The
fire from the ramparts is increased by cavaliers of great size and
strength； capable of mounting numerous heavy guns at a superior
altitude。 The only entrance from the land side is at the south…west
corner； this is exceedingly striking； as the fosse is about 140 feet
wide； the scarp and counter…scarp almost perpendicular； being cut from
the original rock。
A narrow stone bridge upon arches spans this peculiar ditch； the
communication depending upon a double drawbridge and portcullis。
Immediately facing the entrance outside the fortress is an old Turkish
churchyard； through and above which the closed masonry aqueduct is
conducted into the town。 Following the course of the aqueduct along a
straight line of sandy heights which somewhat resemble a massive railway
embankment； we arrived at a mosque in which is the venerated tomb of the
Turkish soldier who first planted the flag upon the walls of Famagousta
when captured； in 1571； from the Venetians。 This tomb is in a small
chamber within the building and is covered with green silk； embroidered；
but as the city was never taken by assault； and capitulated upon
honourable terms after a protracted defence； the fact of establishing
the Turkish flag upon the walls after their evacuation by the garrison
would hardly have entitled the standard…bearer to a Victoria Cross；
however he may have otherwise distinguished himself； which entailed
post…mortem honours； perhaps by skinning alive the gallant Venetian
commandant Bragadino； whose skin； stuffed with straw； was taken in
triumph to Constantinople hanging at the yard…arm of the victorious
general's ship。
Quitting the mosque； we continued along the aqueduct； always upon the
same sandy heights； which gradually increased； until we arrived at a
position about 200 yards from a windmill。 This formed a prominent object
at the back of the large village of Varoschia； situated upon the slope
beneath facing the sea； about a quarter of a mile distant。 I selected
the highest position for a camp； this was close to the aqueduct and
about 600 yards from the entrance of the fortress。 I counted the
embrasures of six guns that could have been brought to bear exactly upon
our tent； but at the same time I remarked that we commanded the lower
portion of the fortress； and could fire into the rear of the batteries
upon the sea…wall within the water…gate at a most destructive range。
This position would require a detached fort with a line of works along
the heights flanked by a small fort at the extremity。 Three detached
forts upon as many points which now exist would render Famagousta
impregnable； should the present works be repai