按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
forts upon as many points which now exist would render Famagousta
impregnable； should the present works be repaired； and improved by some
slight modifications。
I had been through the fortifications upon a former occasion； when I had
the advantage of Captain Inglis the chief commissioner's guidance； but
they are so extensive and of such exceeding interest that many days
might be expended in a study of the details。
Upon entering the fortress by the drawbridge we passed through the
arched and dark way beneath the ramparts； and emerged into a narrow
street； which was swept and free from the usual impurities of a Turkish
town； thus exhibiting proofs of a British occupation。 A perfect
labyrinth of narrow lanes； bordered by most inferior dwellings； confused
a stranger； but with the assistance of a guide I reached the residence
of the chief commissioner and the various officers attached to the
establishment。 Beyond this all modern buildings ceased； and Famagousta
was presented as it must have appeared after the sack and utter
destruction by the Turks in 1571。 It looked as though a town had been
shattered and utterly destroyed by an earth…quake； whose terrible
tremblings had shaken every house to its foundation； and left nothing
but shapeless heaps of squared stones。 O Turk！ insatiable in
destruction； who breaks down； but never restores； what a picture of
desolation was here！ Three centuries had passed away since by treachery
the place was won； and from that hour the neglected harbour had silted
up and ceased to be； the stones of palaces rested where they fell； the
filth of ages sweltered among these blood…sodden ruins； and the proverb
seemed fulfilled； 〃The grass never grows on the foot…print of the Turk。〃
I never saw so fearful an example of ruin。
Although the town was in this hideous state； the fortifications were in
very tolerable repair； and had guns been mounted an enemy would quickly
have acknowledged their formidable importance。 Time appeared to be
almost harmless in attacks against these vast piles of solid masonry。
The parapets in the angles of the embrasures were twenty…five and
twenty…seven feet in thickness。 From these we looked down forty…five and
fifty feet into the ditch beneath。 As we walked round the ramparts and
various bastions we remarked the enormous strength of the commanding
cavaliers to which I alluded from the outside appearance of the forts。
There were also vast subterranean works； store…houses； magazines；
cannon…foundries； and all the appliances of a first…class fortified town
and arsenal； but these were of course empty； and with the exception of a
small chamber near the water…gate； which contained a number of rusty
helmets and breastplates； there was no object of interest beyond the
actual plan of the defences。
The water…gate was approached by a winding entrance beneath a powerful
circular bastion from an extremely narrow quay； from which the remains
of a once powerful mote projected about 120 yards into the sea and
commanded the inner harbour。 This was now a mere line of loose and
disjointed stones。 A citadel that is separated from the main fortress by
a wet ditch which communicates with the sea by an adit beneath the wall
commands the harbour on the east side。 This ditch is as usual scarped
from the rock； and otherwise of solid masonry； should the fortress have
been successfully carried by assault on the land side； a vigorous
defence might have been maintained in this independent citadel until
either reinforcements should arrive by sea； or an escape might be
effected to friendly vessels。
It is commonly asserted that Famagousta under the Lusignans and
Venetians 〃counted its churches by hundreds and its palatial mansions by
thousands。〃 It would certainly have been impossible that they could have
existed within the present area； as a large extent must have been
required for barrack accommodation for the garrison； parade…grounds； &c。
There are ruins of several fine churches with the frescoes still visible
upon the walls。 The Cathedral of St。 Nicholas is a beautiful object in
the Gothic style。 Although dismantled and converted into a mosque by the
Turks； the roof is in good repair； and its magnificent proportions
remain； but they are marred by the stopping of the windows with rough
stones and mortar。 The total length of the cathedral is 172 feet 6。5
inches。 Length of apse （included in above） 30 feet 9 inches； breadth of
apse 32 feet 3 inches； breadth of cathedral 74 feet 1 inch；
circumference of pillars 15 feet 3 inches； there being 12 pillars in
all。
On the outside walls are the marks of various cannon…shot which appear
to have been successfully resisted by the soft but tough sedimentary
limestone； which is of similar quality to that used in the construction
of the fortress。 I observed that the impact of the shot has been
confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the blow； and that the
concussion has not been communicated to the adjoining stone； but has
expended itself in crumbling the opposing surface to the depth in which
it was eventually imbedded。 It would be interesting to try some
experiments upon those walls of Famagousta （which may already require
repair or alteration） with modern heavy artillery； as should this stone
exhibit unusual powers of resistance it may become valuable。 Nothing
would be easier than to fire a few rounds from a ship's battery to prove
the question。
The courtyard of an ancient Venetian palace now forms the British
parade…ground。 This faces the cathedral entrance； and is ornamented by
piles of marble cannon…shot； which are upwards of ten inches in
diameter； these were the Venetian relics of the siege of 1571。
From Cape Greco to Cape Elaea； south to north； is about twenty…five
miles； these points form the bay； nine miles in extreme width。 Although
open to the east and south…east； Famagousta is the only real harbour in
Cyprus that can be available for large vessels； and there can be no
doubt that a very moderate outlay would not only restore its ancient
importance； but would make those additions of modern times that are
required for a first…rate and impregnable coaling…station and arsenal。
It was blowing a fresh gale from the south…east when I was standing on
the ramparts facing the sea above the water…gate； and an admirable
example was displayed in the wave…breaking power of the long line of
sunken reefs which form a continuation of those natural breakwaters
above the surface that have formed the harbour。 A tremendous surf
exhibited a creamy streak along the margin of comparatively still water
within the reefs for about a mile parallel with the shore； comprising an
area of about 700 yards' width at the extremity of the sunken rocks； and
500 from the existing breakwater exactly opposite the water…gate。
Within this secure haven several native vessels were snugly at anchor；
but ships of war would hardly venture among the varying shallows caused
by centuries of silt； such large vessels generally anchor in seventeen
fathoms about a mile from the shore； but they are completely exposed to
wind from east and south…east。 The inner harbour is formed by the
artificial connection of raised heads of projecting reefs by stone
jetties。 At right angles with this complete defence of limestone rock is
a wall or jetty from the shore； which for a distance of 170 yards
incloses the basin of perfectly still water within。 The entrance to this
snug little port is about forty yards in width； and the depth is most
irregular； varying from dry silt close to the south end of the reefs up
to twelve feet beneath the walls of the fortress。 There were many small
coasting…vessels and caiques which trade between the various ports of
Syria and Asia Minor； all having sought shelter from the bad weather
within the port； and the picture presented during the strong gale was
thoroughly illustrative of the natural advantages and the future
requirements of the harbour。 The long line of reefs which form the outer
protection would； were they exposed in their whole length； represent an
irregular incline from about twelve feet above the sea level at the
southern end to three fathoms below water at the northern extremity。 A
wedge laid with its broad base to the south would represent the
inclination of this long line of useful reef； which can be converted
into a sea…wall by simply filling…in with blocks of concrete to a
sufficient height above the extreme water…mark。 The ancient jetty which
connects the small islands that form the northern head of the reef is in
itself an example of the necessity of such an extension throughout the
line。 A natural headland terminating in disconnected rocks upon the
north boundary of the reef about half a mile above the fortress is a
secure protection from the sea； but it admits the silt。 This has
completely filled in a considerable portion of the original harbour； and
were this sea…communication destroyed by connecting the various reefs
with the main headland； the evil would be at once prevented； and the
inclosed area might be cleansed by dredging。 This would not only add to
the accommodation of the inner harbour by a considerable extension； but
it would a