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Georgi had taken advantage of his opportunity to threaten the sharp
cattle…dealer with a long list of imaginary punishments that would be
inflicted by English law should he refuse to return the bullock； which
had been hired for a special service by an Englishman。 The paper was
closely scrutinised； and being in an unknown character； Georgi felt his
advantage； and expounded the contents so forcibly that he worked upon
the fears of the inhabitants of Gallibornu； who insisted that the Turk
should compromise the affair and return the handsome bullock； receiving
in exchange his own half…starved old animal； in addition to a present
of half a sovereign。 Georgi was only too delighted to immediately clench
the bargain。 I advised him in future to manage his own cattle…dealing
instead of confiding in his able friend Theodori； and I ordered the oxen
to be put in the yokes at once； and to draw the vans to our old
camping…place beneath the hawthorn…tree。 Upon arrival at the spot a
great change had taken place； the hawthorns were a mass of blossom； and
scented the air for a considerable distance； the groves of fig…trees
had broken into leaf； the trefoil had grown to a height of two feet； and
numerous cattle were tethered in the rich field； to feed upon the few
square yards that each owner had purchased at a high price to save his
animals from starvation。 A field of broad…beans that we had left in
early blossom twenty…four days before now produced our well…known
vegetable for dinner； and I observed that the native children； with
their usual liking for uncooked food； were eating these indigestible
beans raw！
There had been no rain since our departure； and every crop that was not
irrigated was absolutely destroyed。 The aspect of the country was
pitiable； it should have been at this season a waving sea of green
barley and young wheat； but it was a withered desert with a few
patches of verdure like oases in a thirsty wilderness。 This terrible
calamity extended throughout the entire district or plain of Messaria；
and exhibited a sad example of the great necessity of Cyprus〃an
organised system of artificial irrigation。〃
We remained some days at Kuklia； during which I strengthened the
gipsy…van by lashing the frame…work with raw bull's…hide and securing
the blocks of the springs to the axles with the same material。 It is
worthy of note 〃that a fresh hide should never be used for lashing； but
a skin that has been already dried should be soaked for twenty…four
hours； and then cut into a strip as carefully and as long as the size
will permit。 When thus prepared； it should be re…soaked for four or five
hours； and used while wet as a lashing； drawn as tight as possible。 The
power of contraction is enormous； and when dry the skin becomes as hard
as wood； but a fresh hide has not the same contractive power； and will
stretch and become loose when subject to a severe strain。〃 It was a
great comfort to return to the luxury of the gipsy…van； which looked the
picture of neatness； the gorgeous Egyptian lantern had ceased to exist
as an object of value； as it had several times been upset and thrown
completely off its hook by the jumpings and bumpings of the vehicle when
forcibly dragged over the steep banks and watercourses。 It was now
reduced to an 〃antique；〃 and looked as though it had been recovered from
the ruins of an ancient temple。
The post was kindly forwarded from Famagousta by the chief commissioner；
and we revelled in newspapers； which during our stay in the Carpas had
been a complete blank。 Our cook Christo had also received letters which
disconcerted him。 After dinner at about 8。30 P。M。 he suddenly appeared
at the tent door with a very large breakfast…cup in his hand。 〃I beg
your pardon； sir； but I'm sorry to say my mother has just fallen down
and broken her leg！〃 was his first announcement； and he continued； 〃she
is an old woman； past fifty； sir； and a broken leg is a very bad thing；
I have come to ask for some brandy； and I've brought a cup。〃
〃Your mother broken her leg； Christo？ Why； where is she？〃 I replied。
〃She is at Athens； sir； and I want a drop of brandy； as I have just
received the letter； and I am very anxious about her。〃
I now discovered that the brandy was not intended for his mother's leg；
but for his own stomach； to comfort his nerves and to allay his filial
anxiety。 He had a good dose that quickly restored his usual spirits； as
I heard him relating stories in the servants' tent which created roars
of laughter。
Christo was an excellent； hard…working fellow； who having passed his
life at sea； was exceedingly handy； and combined the usual good
qualities of a sailor with the art of cookery and a certain knowledge
which enabled him to act as interpreter。 He was as clever in lashing up
a van with raw hide as in preparing a dinner at the shortest notice； and
his mayonnaise would have raised the envy of many a professor in
England。 His English varied like his dishes； and upon certain days there
was a considerable vagueness in his language； while at other times he
expressed himself clearly。 Upon one of these foggy intervals I asked him
〃Why the people had made so much noise during the night？〃 and he
replied； that 〃A little hen…horse had made one child in the stable！〃 He
intended to explain that a pony had foaled in the stable。 When he first
joined us he frequently rambled and confused his genders； and termed all
females 〃hens；〃 which at times had almost as ludicrous an effect as the
mistakes of my African cook； who invariably called 〃cocks and hens〃
〃bulls and women。〃 I never had so useful a man in travelling； as he
excelled at tent pitching and arranging the luggage on pack…animals； and
took the lead in everything； in addition to which he showed a great
interest in interpreting； which is a rare quality in a dragoman。
We selected a road upon higher ground for our return to Lefkosia； and
thus avoided the watercourses which had caused so much vexation and
delay upon our former journey。 The first night's halt was at the long
stone bridge across the Pedias river； about twenty miles from Kuklia；
opposite the village of Kythrea at four miles distancethis was only
constructed eight years ago； and it was already rendered impassable by
the overflow of the torrent； which had carried away a considerable
portion。 On the following morning we arrived at the capital； and were
once more hospitably received by Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley。
CHAPTER VII。
KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST。
The change from camp…life to the luxury of Government House； with the
charm of the society of Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley and officers of the
staff； was a most agreeable interlude in the usually monotonous journey
through Cyprus。 The view from the verandah had changed； and was
certainly not charming； as the few green tints that had looked hopeful
on our former visit had turned to brown； but the house within more than
compensated for the cheerlessness of the exterior landscape。 A picnic
excursion to the castle of St。 Hilarion had been arranged for the 29th
instant by Colonel Greaves； C。 B。； chief of the staff； who kindly
included us in the invitation。 This point was seldom visited； as it was
situated 3240 feet above the sea upon the sky…line of the crags above
Kyrenia； and the ride there and back covered a distance of about thirty
miles from Lefkosia。 The energy of English ladies rather astonishes the
people of this country； where inertia is considered to be happiness； and
although our animals were ordered to be saddled punctually at 6 A。M。 the
owner in Lefkosia was sceptical as to our actual start at so early an
hour； therefore much time was lost on the morning in question in sending
messengers vainly to and fro for the missing mule and pony； and 8 A。M。
arrived before their appearance。 The party had started two hours
earlier。 Colonel White； 1st Royal Scots； who was the chief commissioner
at Lefkosia； had kindly waited to accompany us。 As St。 Hilarion was only
a short distance to the left of the Kyrenia road； I had determined not
to return； but to send the camels and luggage on direct。 We left all
unnecessary luggage locked up within the vans； which Sir Garnet Wolseley
kindly permitted us to leave at head…quarters。 We took leave of our good
and big friend Georgi and his sharp companion Theodori； who returned to
Dali； where Georgi would meet the only Venus that I have seen in Cyprus；
his wife； but even that pretty Venus was ruined by high boots and baggy
trousers。
Crossing the dry bed of the Pedias below the Government House； we struck
a line over the open and withered plain to a direct route to Kyrenia。 At
a distance of about five miles from Lefkosia； the broad and well…trodden
road became lost in a variety of independent paths； which at length
converged into one narrow route that ascended a curious formation of
water…washed and utterly denuded hills； composed of sandstone；
claystone； and peculiar deposits of sedimentary rock； which in places
resembled an artificial pavement。 In many places the strata were
vertical； exhibiting the confusion that had been created by the
upheaval。 Having passed through a succession of ups and downs for ab