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demoralised； and was withdrawn from this lonely position completely
fever…smitten。 I made close inquiries among the natives； and all agreed
that the past year； having been unusually wet； had been exceptionally
unhealthy； and the inhabitants had suffered almost to the same degree as
the Europeans。 It was painfully clear that when the rainfall was
sufficiently plentiful to produce abundant harvests it at the same time
ensured a crop of fevers。
We remained ten days in our Kyrenia camp； and we were both sorry to
leave； as the neighbourhood is exceedingly beautiful and full of
interest； there is certainly no portion of Cyprus that can equal it in
the picturesque； or in the extreme richness of genuine forest…trees and
foliage。
The town is small and most irregular： an old Turkish graveyard forms a
boundary upon the outskirts opposite the fort； precisely similar in
position to that of Famagousta。 Within 300 paces of this point are the
principal houses； mostly well built of stone and surrounded by
high…walled gardens fruitful in oranges； lemons； almonds； apricots；
figs； and the fruits commonly known throughout the island。 The houses
are generally one story above the ground…floor； with a wide balcony that
forms an open face to the first…floor of five or six arches； which
support the roof upon that side。 This is a convenient plan for the
climate； as it admits fresh air to all the rooms which open into the
balcony； in fact it is an open landing to the staircase。 A few
date…palms ornament the gardens； the presence of these graceful trees
being a sure sign of the preponderance of Turks in the population。
The fort of Kyrenia is a great curiosity； as it forms a portion of the
harbour； being situated like the nose in a pair of spectacles； the
basins being the eyes right and left。 The actual defences are intact；
although the inner accommodation for barracks； magazines； &c。； &c。；
require great repairs and alteration。 The walls are of solid squared
masonry； the stones jointed with the usual imperishable cement； and rise
to the great perpendicular height of upwards of seventy feet sheer from
the bottom of the fosse。 There is only one entrance； by a narrow bridge
upon arches； across the extremely wide and deep ditch； terminating near
the gateway by a drawbridge； which admits an entry in the face of the
immense wall； with portcullis and iron…bound hinged gate。 The ramparts
overlooking the town and harbour on the west face are 147 yards in
length； exclusive of the tower； and the embrasures of solid masonry
measured at the angle are generally twenty…four feet in thickness。 The
fort is nearly square； and is flanked at each corner by a circular tower
which would completely enfilade the ditch by several tiers of guns。 This
powerful fortress is washed by the sea upon two sides （the north and
east）； and the foundations upon the native rock are protected from the
action of the waves by reefs and huge fragments of natural detached
masses which characterise this portion of the coast。 As I stood upon the
parapet facing north I obtained an admirable view of the original
harbours to my left and right； and although they could never have
admitted large vessels； I was struck by the great importance of this
sole place of refuge upon the northern coast of Cyprus； which in former
times had suggested such a formidable arrangement for defence。 The fort
was constructed by the Venetians； but there are fallen masses of much
older works that now lie at the foot of the sea…face； and add to the
natural reefs in defending the foundations from the breaking water。
The style of this fortress suggests a date anterior to Famagousta； as it
is devoid of cavaliers and depends for its defence upon the simple
flanking fire of the four towers and the great height and thickness of
the walls。 It is supplied with fresh water by an aqueduct； and is
provided with immense reservoirs of masonry to contain a sufficient
quantity during a prolonged siege； when the outer aqueduct might be
destroyed by the enemy。 There are extensive subterranean caves and
dungeons； but these have not yet been explored。 Above this fine old
specimen of Venetian fortifications； upon the high platform of the tower
facing the harbour； was a flag…staff； upon which a small bundle of rags
fluttered in the strong wind； as though they； had been arranged to
frighten the jackdaws from building within the crevices of masonry。 It
appeared that this miserable remnant of tattered bunting had once
represented a British Union Jack！ and the colourless； poverty…stricken
thing flapped and cracked as it tore itself into the finest threads of
misery in the gale； too truly representing the result of our ambiguous
position according to the terms of the Cyprian occupation。 I felt
ashamed that such an exhibition should meet the eye of any foreign ship
upon entering the harbour of Kyrenia； and I was informed 〃that it was
the only flag that was possessed by the authorities。〃 As all the revenue
of the island was handed over to the Porte excepting a bagatelle
insufficient for the requirements of the country； the really overworked
and energetic servants of the Crown were absolutely obliged to practise
a most rigid economy； commencing with their own salaries； equally
vexatious to themselves and unworthy of our high position。
The curious collection of old cannon had all been removed by the Turks；
but one iron piece remained； which； being almost worthless as metal； had
been left behind when the bronze guns had been shipped to
Constantinople。 This was a great curiosity； as it somewhat resembled a
hand…bell about five feet in length； the bell which formed the mouth to
receive the ball was only two feet in length； although the muzzle was
sufficiently wide to admit the stone projectile of nineteen inches
diameter。 The portion which resembled the handle of a bell was the
continuation which formed the narrow chamber for the powder； this was
about three feet long and eight inches thick*。 （*These measurements are
from memory； excepting the diameter of muzzle； which I took on the
spot。） There were no trunnions to this singular old gun； but it may have
been lashed to some lever which could be raised or depressed； and it was
evidently intended for firing into shipping from the fort walls； to
command the harbour at a short range。 It had been cast with concentric
rings； which I examined carefully； as at first I imagined they had been
wrought…iron shrunk on to the casting： this was not the case； but the
extra thickness of metal at the rings added sufficient strength。 The
large stone shot； formed of a peculiarly hard metamorphous rock （a
conglomerate of matter that had been fused by heat）； were to be seen in
various positions within the fortress。 A few were on the parapet above
the drawbridge； as though prepared for rolling over upon an assaulting
party。 I found this quality of rock upon the mountains within two miles
of Kyrenia。
There were evidently two harbours； which included the small bay upon
either side of the present fort； that upon the west was the most
important； as the depth of water is greater； and it shows evident signs
of having received peculiar attention。 The remains of the ancient moles
still exist； and afford considerable protection； but the sea has broken
through in several places and washed away the upper tiers of stones。
These moles were carefully constructed by laying the masonry upon a
foundation of hydraulic cement； which connected the various natural
rocks； the layer of cement still exists； while the squared blocks of the
original surface may be seen at the bottom； where they have been
deposited by the waves。 Like all defensive works in historical
countries； those of Kyrenia have undergone continual changes and
modifications； as from time to time alterations may have been suggested
by successful attacks。 In a ruined tower which； completely isolated
within the sea； commanded the entrance of the harbour on the west； I
observed that an ancient column of white marble from some old building
has been used as a key to prevent the large squared stones from yielding
to the constant vibration caused by the breaking waves。 Each tier of
stones has been cut at the central edge to form a half…circle where the
edges of the adjoining blocks were connected； those have been similarly
shaped to produce a complete circle when faced together。 The squared
stones in the lower and upper tiers have been perforated in a circle； so
that when several courses of masonry were completed； the hole
represented a shaft of about twelve inches diameter； sunk from top to
bottom； the marble column has been inserted from the top； and has tied
each course effectively together； the havoc occasioned in this tower of
solid squared blocks is the work of man； the stones have until recently
been removed for the purposes of building。
Kyrenia could never have been a perfectly safe harbour in all weathers；
as the entrance is open to the north。 There is a slight turn to the
east； which might have protected a few small vessels during a northerly
gale； but this portion is now silted up； and it should be cleared by
dredging。 The houses rise above the harbour f