按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
gale； but this portion is now silted up； and it should be cleared by
dredging。 The houses rise above the harbour from the water's edge to the
cliffs； forming a horseshoe shape。 Mr。 Holbeach had just completed a
small quay of masonry； and a very moderate outlay would restore the
ancient mole and render Kyrenia an important port for the trading
vessels of Syria and Asia Minor。 When a good carriage…road shall be
completed to the capital； Lefkosia； only sixteen miles distant； the
value of Kyrenia as a commercial harbour will be much enhanced。 There
are also important towns with a considerable population within eight or
nine miles of Kyrenia on the west： Carava and Lapithas would offer
markets for a great extension of trade； and Morphu would be brought
within the same commercial circle。 There is a peculiar advantage
throughout the ports of Cyprus in the presence of stone quarries upon
the spot where the material is required； this is specially marked at
Kyrenia； where the solid rock； with its tombs； cave…dwellings； and
ancient quarries； is on the actual borders of the sea； within a few
yards of the existing harbour。 There would be no great difficulty in
converting these quarries into a dock； should a demand for stone be
sufficient to repay the outlay for cutting the supply； according to the
example already exhibited and left to us by the ancients。
The quarries of Kyrenia form the chief curiosity of the locality。 The
rock is the sedimentary limestone mixed with a proportion of sand that
is the characteristic geological feature around the coast of Cyprus； but
in these quarries the stone is perfectly solid and free from fissures；
which enables the mason to obtain blocks of any size。 From prehistoric
times the rock of Kyrenia； which rises about forty feet above the
sea…level； has been worked out upon the most careful method； every block
has been cut from the parent mass by measurement； and no broken edges
have been permitted to destroy the symmetry of the adjoining stone。 The
work was commenced from the top； or surface of the rock； and a smooth
cliff face has been produced as the first operation； upon completion the
surface has been lined out parallel with the perpendicular face； and the
blocks have been carefully chiselled and removed by wedges driven
horizontally from beneath。 In this manner the rock has been worked until
it resembled a flight of steps； which remain in many places perfect to
the present hour。 The entire fortress and town have been constructed
from these quarries； and there can be no doubt that when Kyrenia was
originally founded by the Dorian colonists under Cepheus and Praxander
the stones were obtained from the existing site。 There is a considerable
difference in the quality of the rock； which has been remarked by the
original builders； as a passage has been cut through the first cliff
face nearest to the town； and the desired level for wheeled conveyances
having been obtained； the workmen have discovered a superior stone as
they proceeded into the bowels of the quarry。 They have accordingly
neglected much of the nearer portion； and have excavated a large square；
always pushing forward towards the west； which is now terminated by a
worked perpendicular face and a series of steps incomplete； precisely as
it remained when the last chisel relinquished the labour。
This quality of rock in all parts of Cyprus is cavernous； and the
natural caves have suggested to the ancients an artificial extension
both for dwellings and for cemeteries。 The rock is easily worked by the
mason's pick； and near the town I observed an old fort…ditch which had
been originally excavated for the double object of quarrying building
stone at the same time that it served the purpose of defence。 There
would be no great difficulty in connecting the ancient quarry with the
harbour by cutting a canal through the soft rock and extending the depth
of the ancient excavations。 It is well known to all quarrymen that the
stone should be placed in a building according to the position in which
it lay when forming the original rock。 Within the fortress of Kyrenia
there are many examples of neglect； where the masons have either
inverted or placed the stones sideways； in which case the action of the
weather has completely honey…combed and reduced the material to an
appearance of decayed coral。 I observed instances of similar neglect
with the same results in portions of the fortress of Famagousta。
The tombs are easily distinguished from the cave…dwellings with which
the rocks are perforated； as they are merely chambers of a few feet
square sufficient for the reception of a limited number of bodies； the
dwellings have been carefully chiselled； and arranged with a bench cut
from the solid rock around the apartment。
The remains of ancient fortifications； including ruined towers and
ditches； prove that in former times Kyrenia was of far greater extent
than would be implied by its present small proportions。 In like manner
with Famagousta this powerful fort has been considered as a position to
be occupied exclusively by Turks。 The population of the town is now
about 600； but the Greek element is increasing since the British
Convention ensured their protection。
Our camp was daily visited by the women of both Turks and Cypriotes； who
came to indulge their curiosity； and my wife had some difficulty in
receiving the increasing circle of acquaintance。 The want of a female
interpreter was at first acutely felt； as the conversation was much
restricted when Georgi was the only medium。 After a few days this
shyness on the part of the Turkish ladies wore off； and Georgi； who was
a good； painstaking young fellow； became a favourite； some of these
ladies were exceedingly gracious； and took off their veils when in the
tent with Lady Baker and myself； and conversed upon various subjects
with much intelligence。 A few were decidedly pretty； all were studiously
clean and well dressed； and they formed a marked contrast in appearance
and general style to the Cypriote women； the breed was superior； their
hands were delicate and well cared for； but disfigured by the prevalent
habit of staining the nails and palms with henna。 This plant is called
shenna by all Turks and Cypriotes； and it is imported from Syria for the
purpose of dyeing the hair； and also the feet and hands of Turkish
women。 It is not a production of Cyprus； as has been erroneously stated
by some authors； I made particular inquiries in all portions of the
island； and of all classes； upon this subject。 The henna； or shenna； is
only to be met with in some few gardens； where it is cultivated as an
ornamental shrub； in the same manner that the arbutus may be seen in the
shrubberies of England。 The Turkish women are very particular in dyeing
their hair； and use various preparations。 The shenna produces a glossy
red； which some years ago was the fashionable tinge in England。 There is
also a small seed of a plant which is prepared by roasting until burnt；
like coffee； and then reducing to powder； which is formed into a paste
with oil； this is a well…known dye； which turns the hair into a deep
black。 There was a sudden rush for information when the British
occupation of Cyprus was announced to the startled public； and books
were rather hurriedly put together； compiled from various authorities；
which； although yielding valuable information upon many points；
unfortunately perpetuated errors by reproducing erroneous statements。
The asserted existence of henna as 〃an indigenous shrub which originated
the name of Cyprus；〃 is an instance of such mistakes； similar to the
descriptions of 〃HEATH…covered surface；〃 when no such plant exists upon
the island。
The longer I remained in the neighbourhood of Kyrenia the deeper was my
regret that the arrivals of strangers should take place in the southern
ports； instead of receiving their first impressions of Cyprus by an
introduction to this lovely coast。 I was never afloat on the northern
side； but the view must be strikingly impressive； as the trees； ever
green almost to the water's edge； shadow the rocky coves； and clothe the
surface to the base of the mountains； whilst； at a short distance from
the land these must appear as though rising abruptly from the sea。 The
castles upon the extreme summits form unmistakable landmarks； resembling
sentries on either side the fort and harbour of Kyrenia。
On 6th April the general rendezvous was the monastery of Bellapais；
three and a half miles distant from Kyrenia； in response to the
invitation of Major McCalmont； 7th Hussars； on the staff of Sir Garnet
Wolseley； who had taken immense trouble for the gratification of his
guests by sending tents； baggage； and sleeping accommodation for two
nights； in addition to every kind of necessary refreshments。
The route from Kyrenia lay through a country of the brightest shades of
green； parallel with the sea； about a mile and a half distant； towards
which a succession of deep ravines； which formed river…beds in the rainy
season； drained from the mountains at right angles with the path。 This
side of the Carpas range formed a strong contrast with the parched
southern slopes； as every gar