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the rain has percolated through the ground； it has become so thoroughly
impregnated with sulphate of lime that it has deposited a series of
strata some six or seven feet below the surface； which form a flaky
subterranean pavement。 The ancients selected this shallow soil of a
higher level for a burial…ground； and they burrowed beneath the stratum
of stony deposit to form their tombs。 One of the chief occupations of
modern Cypriotes appears to be the despoiling of the dead； thus the
entire sides of the plateau…face for a distance of about two miles are
burrowed into thousands of holes to a depth of ten and twelve feet in
search of hidden treasures。 If the same amount of labour had been
expended in the tillage of the surface； the result would have been far
more profitable。 A small proportion of the land upon the outskirts of
the town was cultivated； some had been recently ploughed； while in other
plots the wheat had appeared above the surface。 Water is generally found
at eight or nine feet below the level； but this is of an inferior
description； and the town and environs are well supplied by an aqueduct
which conveys the water from powerful springs about seven miles to the
west of Larnaca； near Arpera。 This useful work was constructed according
to the will of a former pacha； who bequeathed the sum required； for a
public benefit。
Large flocks of sheep were grazing in various portions of the
uncultivated plain。 At first sight they appeared to be only searching
for food among the stones and dust； but upon close examination I found a
peculiar fleshy herb something like the stone…crop which grows upon the
old walls and rocks of England。 This plant was exceedingly salt； and the
sheep devoured it with avidity； and were in fair condition。 The wool was
long； but of a coarse wiry texture； and much impaired by the adherence
of thistles and other prickly plants。 The musical sound of distant bells
denoted the arrival of a long string of camels； laden with immense bales
of unpressed cotton on their way to the port of Larnaca。 Each animal
carried two bales； and I observed that the saddles and pads were in
excellent order； the camels well fed； and strongly contrasting with the
cruel carelessness of the camel owners of Egypt； whose beasts are galled
into terrible sores from the want of padding in their packs。 The cotton
had been cleaned upon the plantation； but it would be subjected to
hydraulic pressure and packed in the usual iron…bound bales for
shipment； upon arrival in the stores of Larnaca。
It was impossible to resist a feeling of depression upon strolling
around the environs of the town and regarding the barren aspect of the
distant country。 Every inch of this fertile plain should be cultivated；
and numerous villages should be dotted upon the extensive surface。
〃Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth〃 was a curse that
appeared to have adhered to Cyprus。
It was unnecessary to seek for the chief cause of unhealthiness； this
was at once apparent in the low swamps on the immediate outskirts of the
town。 In ancient days the shallow harbour of Cittium existed on the east
side of modern Larnaca； whether from a silting of the port； or from the
gradual alteration in the level of the Mediterranean； the old harbour no
longer exists； but is converted into a miserable swamp； bordered by a
raised beach of shingles upon the seaboard。 The earth has been swept
down by the rains； and the sand driven in by the sea； while man stood
idly by； allowing Nature to destroy a former industry。 All the original
harbours of the country have suffered from the same neglect。
There was little to be seen in the neighbourhood。 The site was pointed
out where the troops were encamped in the tremendous heat of July in the
close vicinity of the swampy ground； upon pestiferous soil； and the
usual tales of commissariat blunders were recounted。 Close to the
borders of this unhealthy spot； but about twenty feet above the level of
the lowest morass； stands the convent belonging to the Sisters of
Charity； which includes a school； in addition to a hospital。 Great
kindness was shown by these excellent ladies to many English sufferers；
and their establishment deserves a liberal support from public
contributions。
I walked through the bazaar of Larnaca； this is situated at the west end
of the town near the fort； close to which there is a public fountain
supplied by the aqueduct to which I have already alluded。 Brass taps
were arranged around the covered stone reservoir； but I remarked a
distressing waste of water； as a continual flow escaped from an
uncontrolled shoot which poured in a large volume uselessly into the
street。 Within a few yards of the reservoir was a solitary old banian
tree （ficus religiosa）； around which a crowd of donkeys waited； laden
with panniers containing large earthen jars； which in their turn were to
be filled with the pure water of the Arpera springs。
Although the crowd was large； and all were busied in filling their jars
and loading their respective animals； there was no jostling or
quarrelling for precedence； but every individual was a pattern of
patience and good humour。 Mohammedans and Cypriotes thronged together in
the same employment； and the orderly behaviour in the absence of police
supervision formed a strong contrast to the crowds in England。
The Mosque being within a few feet of them； the Mussulmans could perform
their ablutions at the threshold。 Around the font； women were
intermingled with a crowd of men and boys。 The girls and lads were
regular in features and good…looking； though dirt and torn clothing of
various gaudy colours gave a picturesque； but hardly an attractive；
appearance to the group。 The bazaar was entered at right angles with the
quay； the streets were paved with stones of irregular size； sloping from
both sides towards the centre； which formed the gutter。 Camels； mules；
bullock…carts； and the omnipresent donkeys thronged the narrow streets；
either laden with produce for the quay； or returning after having
delivered their heavy loads。 The donkeys were very large and were mostly
dark brown； with considerable length of hair。 In like manner with the
camels； they were carefully protected by thick and well stuffed packs；
or saddles； and were accordingly free from sores。 They appeared to be
exceedingly docile and intelligent； and did not require the incessant
belabouring to which the ass of other countries is the victim。 Large
droves of these animals； each laden with three heavy squared stones for
building； picked their way through the narrow streets； and seemed to
know exactly the space required for their panniers； as they never
collided with either carts or passengers。
The shops of the bazaar were all open； and contained the supplies
usually seen in Turkish marketsvegetables； meat； and a predominance of
native sweets and confectionery； in addition to stores of groceries； and
of copper and brass utensils。 An absence of fish proved the general
indolence of the people； there is abundance in the sea； but there are
few fishermen。
An hour's stroll was quite sufficient for one to form an opinion of
Larnaca。 A good roadstead and safe anchorage offer great advantages； but
until some protection shall be afforded that will enable boats to land
in all weathers Larnaca can never be accepted as a port。 There is shoal
water for a distance of about two hundred yards from the shore； which
causes a violent surf even in a moderate breeze； and frequently prevents
all communication with the shipping。 The quay was in many places
undermined by the action of the waves； and it would be necessary to
create an entirely new front by sinking a foundation for a sea…wall some
yards in advance of the present face。 There would be no engineering
difficulty in the formation of a boat…harbour； to combine by extensive
pile…jetties the facility of landing in all weathers。 A very cursory
view of Larnaca exhibited a true picture of its miserable financial
position。 The numerous stores kept by Europeans were the result of a
spasmodic impulse。 There was no wholesome trade； those who represented
the commercial element were for the most part unfortunates who had
rushed to Cyprus at the first intelligence of the British occupation；
strong in expectations of a golden harvest。 The sudden withdrawal of the
large military force left Larnaca in the condition of streets full of
sellers； but denuded of buyers。 The stores were supplied with the usual
amount of liquors； and tins of preserved provisions； none of the
imported articles were adapted for native requirements； an utter
stagnation of trade was the consequence； and prices fell below the cost
of home production。 The preceding year had been exceptionally sickly；
many of the storekeepers were suffering from the effects of fever；
which； combined with the depression of spirits caused by ruined
prospects； produced a condition of total collapse； from which there was
only one reliefthat of writing to the newspapers and abusing the
Government and the island generally。
There must always be martyrssomebody must be sacrificedwhether burnt
at the stake for religious principles； or put in a bell…tent