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substance in the immediate neighbourhood of Kyrenia。
There was a peculiarity in the walls and towers of the fortress of St。
Hilarion： the stones were of such small dimensions that few exceeded
forty or fifty pounds in weight； except those which formed the principal
halls or other buildings upon the secure plateaux within the outer
works。 The masons had apparently depended upon the extreme tenacity and
hardness of their cement； which bound the mass into a solid block。 Upon
a close examination I discovered the reason。 As the towers and many of
the walls were built upon the extreme edge of various precipices； it
would have been impossible to have erected a scaffolding on the outside；
in the absence of which it would have been difficult to have raised
heavy weights； the builders were therefore obliged to limit the size of
stones to the power of individuals； who would be obliged to supply the
material by the simple handing of single stones as the work proceeded。
By this crude system the mason would stand upon his own wall and receive
the stones as his work grew in height。
The origin and date of this interesting fortress are uncertain； but it
is known that； like other eagle…nests upon this craggy range； it formed
a place of refuge to some of the Latin kings of Cyprus。 As in ancient
times the port of Kyrenia had been an object of frequent attacks； the
lofty fortresses of St。 Hilarion and Buffavento offered immediate
asylums in the event of a retreat from the invaded harbour。 In close
proximity to the sea these elevated posts commanded an extended view；
and the approach of an enemy could be discerned at a distance that would
afford ample warning for preparing a defence。 Both St。 Hilarion and
other mountain strongholds upon this range were dismantled by the
Venetian Admiral Prioli about A。D。 1490； shortly after the annexation of
the island by Venice。
The return ride down the mountain side was； if possible； more beautiful
than the ascent； as the lights and shadows were rendered acute by dark
but quickly passing clouds； occasional light mists curled round the
highest peaks like veils of gauze and then dissolved in the clear air。
These atmospherical changes intensified the colouring and brought out
the varying tints of grey and purple rocks into a strange prominence；
while every wild flower appeared to thrust itself suddenly into
observation： the purple cistus seemed magnified to the size of roses；
and a bright gleam of gold from the masses of prickly bloom now in
fullest blaze mingled with the general green surface of mastic and
arbutus。 As we neared the base of the mountains the dark green rounded
tops of a forest of caroub…trees were occasionally broken by the white
bloom of sweet…scented hawthorns； and to the delight of my ear； the
first notes of the cuckoo that I had heard in Cyprus recalled the spring
of England！ It is a curious arrangement of our nervous system； that a
sound so simple in itself should invest the scene with a tenfold
pleasure； and should conjure up uncalled…for recollections of places；
friends； and a life of years long past： but so it was； and for the
moment I longed to be at home。 。 。 。
The mules and camels were ready to start on the 10th April。 I had
engaged a well…known fine…looking muleteer named Katarjii Iiani； who had
contracted； for twenty…nine shillings a day； to supply the riding mules
and baggage animals sufficient for our party from Kyrenia to any portion
of the island I might wish to visit。 My plan was arranged； to include a
circuit of the north and west to Baffo； thence to Limasol； by which time
the hot weather would be drawing near； and we should seek a settlement
as near the clouds as possible upon Troodos； the snow was still deep
upon the northern summit of this mountain； which formed the prominent
object in the range。
Our new muleteer Iiani was about six feet two inches high； and not being
sufficiently tall； he added nearly three inches more by enormous heels
to a pair of well…fitting high boots； these； fastened below the knee；
just showed sufficient clean grey stocking to prove that he possessed
such hose； which are luxuries seldom indulged in by the peasantry。 The
boots were carefully blackened and polished； and were armed with long
spurs。 His trousers were the usual roomy pattern； containing sufficient
stuff to clothe a small family of English children； above these
dark…blue bags he wore a kind of Jersey frock of thick silk fitting
tight to his figure； the junction between this purple…striped garment
and his waistband was concealed in the many windings of a long shawl
which passed several times round his centre； in this he wore a
German…silver…handled knife or dagger of pure Birmingham or Sheffield
origin。 His figure was very perfect； and he was as thoroughly 〃set…up〃
as though he had been in the hands of a drill…sergeant from his cradle。
He carried a long stick like the shaft of a lance； with which he could
poke a refractory mule； but which he always used when mounting by
resting one end upon the ground； and with the left hand upon the saddle
he ascended with the ease of a spiritualist 〃floating in the air。〃 Iiani
was very polite to ladies； and he knew their ways。 He seldom advanced
without an offering of some lovely flower or a small sprig of
sweetly…scented herb； which he invariably presented with a graceful bow
and a smile intended to represent a combination of humility； amiability；
gentility； and as many other 〃ilitys〃 as could be squeezed into his
expressive features。 It is hardly necessary after this description to
say that Iiani was a very tall humbug； pleasant in manner when he had
his own way。 He was lazy to such a degree that he invariably fell asleep
upon his mule after smoking innumerable cigarettes。 In these cases his
long body swayed to the right and left； and occasionally nodded forward
to an extent that sometimes awoke him with the jerk； after which
spasmodic return of consciousness an immediate relapse took place； and
he fell asleep again。 As he rode directly before me； as guide； this
chronic somnolency was most annoying； and I had to drive his mule into a
faster walk by poking its hind…quarters with my stick。 The animal would
then break into a sudden trot； which would awaken the rider to the fact
that he had been dreaming； upon which he burst into some peculiar song
that was intended to prove that he was wide awake； but after a few bars
the ditty ceased； the head once more nodded and swung from side to side；
the mule relaxed its pace 。 。 。 Iiani was asleep again！
In another sense he was very wide…awake。 He had represented to me that
he was the proprietor of the seven camels and five mules； but I quickly
discovered that he was only the owner of a completely worn…out old camel
and four mules： he had hired the other animals at a considerably lower
rate than I had agreed to pay him； therefore I should have the
difficulty of several discontented owners instead of one。 However； we
had started before this fact was explained by my factotum Christo。
The route lay along the sea…shore through a forest of caroub…trees and
olives； occasionally varied by patches of cereals。 Upon our right to the
sea…margin were tolerable crops of barley； most of which had been
irrigated by water conducted from the hills。 At about four miles
distance from Kyrenia the caroubs and olives of all growths exhibited
the effects of north…easterly gales； as they inclined to south…west； and
those nearest to the sea； which acted as screens； and received the full
unbroken force of the wind； were seriously damaged。 As we proceeded
towards Lapithus the trees became widely scattered； the slopes were
steeper； and the strip of level ground to the sea…margin narrowed to
only half a mile。 The mountains rose rapidly from this base； and an
extra deep tinge of green showed the effect of streams； which in this
happy spot of Cyprus are perennial。 Many little villages were dotted
about the mountain sides with groves of olives and other fruit…trees；
which appeared to be in danger from the impending cliffs； huge masses
having fallen and rolled to various distances at the bottom。 The country
reminded me of the prettiest portions of South Italy。
At eight miles from Kyrenia we arrived at the thriving town of Karava；
built upon the mountain slope and watered by powerful streams diverted
into artificial channels from the parent bed。 The large population of
this neighbourhood is principally engaged in the production of silk； for
which the locality has long been famous。 Every garden that surrounded
the houses was rich in mulberry…trees； together with oranges and lemons
and the luxuriant foliage of the almond。 We rode along steep paved lanes
within the town； through which the water was rushing in refreshing
streams； until we at length reached the precipitous edge of the ravine；
which in the rainy season becomes an important torrent。 Although some
flour…mills are worked； I observed a terrible waste of water…power；
which might be turned to account for machinery。 I heard the usual excuse
for this neglect； 〃The people have no money！〃
We had ridden fast； and were far ahead of the baggage animals； we
accordingl