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waves。 We ascended the stream for a short distance； until； tempted by
two or three large plane…trees； we halted for luncheon beneath their
shade。 The river； which occasionally flooded sufficiently to bring down
heavy timber when felled among the mountains； flowed through an
extremely rich but narrow valley； which extended into a glen between
their precipitous slopes until it became a mere ravine。 The mass of
mountains in this district； which form a succession of wild and
impassable steeps； is marked upon Kiepert's map as 〃unexplored。〃 They
were originally pine…forests； but the destruction of timber has been
carried to such an excess that comparatively few trees remain。 With my
glass I could distinguish large trunks that lay rotting upon the ground；
where they had pitched among the stems； and roots of trees that had been
already felled； these had been rolled from the steep heights above； but
having been caught in their descent to the torrent below by the opposing
stumps； they had been abandoned； and other trees had been felled in
their stead； where the inclination was more favourable for their
transport。
This portion of the coast should be thoroughly explored by practical
miners； as it is rich in minerals。 I procured some fine specimens of
pyrites of copper； which the natives mistook for silver； and should a
mineralogical investigation be made by the authorities； I feel sure that
the metallic wealth of Cyprus will be discovered between Caravastasi and
Poli…ton…Krysokhus。
It was late before our baggage animals appeared； and when they at length
arrived； Iiani's venerable camel was missing。 It appeared that this
worn…out old creature had been performing acrobatic feats in tumbling
throughout the difficult journey； and had rolled； together with its
load； down several places that had threatened its destruction。 It had
delayed the march several hours； as it had been many times released from
difficulties by unloading； reloading； and dividing the heavier portions
of baggage among the other camels which received a smaller pay。 At
length； upon arriving upon the deep sand of the beach； about a mile
distant； it had fallen down； and given up everything except the ghost。
It was a natural annoyance to the owners of the other camels that Iiani
should be paid highly for a useless animal； while they had to carry its
load divided among them assisted by a division of the smaller weights
among the servants' riding mules。 The evening was passed in grumbling：
everybody was in a bad humour。 It was declared impossible to pitch the
tent upon the sandy beach by the pool of fresh water； as there was no
holding…ground for the tent…pegs。 I quickly instructed them in making
faggots of tamarisk…boughs which； tied to the ropes and buried in the
sand； were much more secure than pegs in the hardest soil； and the tent
was at length arranged。 A small species of curlew tempted its fate by
visiting the fresh…water margin just before our dinner…hour； I bagged
it； and as the cook was in a bad humour； I made a fire of driftwood；
with which the beach was strewed； and when the glowing embers had
succeeded to the flame and formed a red…hot heap； I cut two forked
sticks； which； placed on either side upright in the sand； supported my
bird upon a long skewer of green tamarisk…wood。 A little salt； pepper；
and a smear of butter occasionally； produced a result that would have
beaten Christo's best attempts。
On the following morning we were all once more in good humour； the old
camel had not died； but had been brought into camp late at night。 It now
formed the object for everybody's joke； and its owner liani was
recommended to 〃try and sell it；〃 or 〃to make it a present to a friend；〃
or 〃to ride it himself；〃 the latter course would have been a deserved
punishment。 Iiani escaped further remarks by jumping upon his mule and
riding ahead； and we followed our guide without delay along the deep
sandy beach。
We rode for fourteen miles along cliffs bordering the sea； with the deep
hollows occasioned by the natural drainage causing a continual series of
ups and downs； which reminded me forcibly of the coast of South Devon
between Torquay and Dawlish。 The difference lay in the rocks； which were
all plutonic； and in the scenery upon our left； which was a wild and
confused mass of mountains； scarred by deep and dark ravines； while the
more distant summits exhibited the still…existing pine…forests； these
had disappeared from the slopes which faced the coast； and had afforded
facilities for exportation。 We halted in a deep glen between exceedingly
steep hills； through which a torrent…bed had cut its course directly to
the sea。 In this secluded spot； far from all villages or inhabitants； we
arranged to encamp upon a flat and inviting plot of turf； which in
Cyprus is rarely met with。 Some tolerable elms and other trees formed a
dense shade in a deep and narrow portion of the glen beneath the
over…hanging cliffs； and a beautiful spring of water issued from the
rock； received in a stone cistern beneath。 An arch of masonry inclosed
the spring； which some kind person had thus carefully arranged for the
public good； this was richly clothed with maiden…hair ferns。 The surplus
water； after overflowing the stone basin； formed a faint stream； which
trickled over the rocks between cliffs only a few feet apart； until it
emerged from this narrow cleft and joined the sea。 I walked down this
natural alley to the beach and bathed； to the astonishment of my guide
Iiani and another Cypriote； who rushed to the top of the cliff as though
they thought I contemplated suicide； these people having a natural
horror of cold water。 The name of this secluded glen was Symboli。
On the following morning we started for Polis； fourteen miles by an easy
route along the coast。 The mountains upon our left were very
precipitous； and exhibited the same character of complete wilderness
which had marked them for the last two marches； the only difference
apparent was an increase in the remaining pines； which fairly clothed
their summits and ravines。 The sea was perfectly calm； and for the first
time during our stay in Cyprus we observed many shoals of fish playing
upon the surface close to the beach。 Two cormorants were in the bay； and
I made some fortunate shots； killing one with the rifle at upwards of
200 yards； and disabling the other at about 250。 There appeared to be
more signs of game in this part of the country； as the cock francolins
were crowing in many directions throughout our route； until we arrived
at Polis； or； in full； 〃Poli…ton…Krysokhus。〃
This place was formerly important as one of the principal mineral
centres of the island； and the large accumulations of scoriae in several
mounds near the coast prove that mining operations were conducted upon
an extensive scale。 A concession had recently been granted to a small
private company for the working of copper in this neighbourhood； and
should the existence of metallic wealth be proved there can be no doubt
that capital will be embarked in mining enterprises； and the locality
will recover its former importance。 On the other hand； all mining
adventures should be conducted with the greatest caution。 A common error
is committed by sanguine speculators in following the footsteps of the
ancients； upon the supposition that because in former ages a locality
was productive； it should remain in the same profitable condition。
Nothing can be more erroneous； it is generally poor gleaning after the
Phoenicians。 The bronze of those extraordinary miners and metallurgists
was renowned above all other qualities； they worked the copper…mines of
Cyprus and the tin…mines of Cornwall； but the expenses of working a mine
in those days bore no comparison with the outlay of modern times。 Slaves
were employed as a general rule： forced labour was obtainable； and the
general conditions of the labour…market were utterly at variance with
those of the present day。 The ancient miners would seldom have abandoned
their veins of ore until they were completely exhausted； and the vast
heaps of scoriae which now mark the sites of their operations may be the
remains of works that were deserted as worn out and unproductive。 It is
true that traces of copper are visible in many places throughout the
metamorphous rocks； and the greenstone from Soli to Poli…ton…Krysokhus；
but it remains to be proved whether the metal exists in sufficient
quantities to be profitably worked。 It is generally believed that zinc
was formerly produced at Soli； where vestiges of ancient mining
operations are to be seen upon the surface； but for many centuries the
works have been abandoned。
A very careful scientific examination of the island has been made by
various explorersM。 Gaudry； Unger； and Kotschy： their reports are not
encouraging； but at the same time it must be allowed that they were not
practical miners。 The work of M。 Gaudry must always be accepted as a
most valuable authority upon the geology； mineralogy； and general
agricultural resources of Cyprus； but it will be remarked by all
practical men that the explorations of the country have been
superficial； no money has been expended； and is it