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at length reached the sea…beach and crossed the sandy mouth of the
river's bed。 The crops of cereals were perished by drought in the
absence of irrigation； but upon continuing our route parallel with the
beach we observed an immediate improvement； as the water was conducted
by artificial channels to the various fields。 This arrangement had been
effected by erecting a temporary dam in the river's bed far among the
mountains； and thus leading the stream into the conduit for many miles。
Small brooks intersected our path along the coast； and in several places
I remarked the ruins of ancient aqueducts。 。 。 。 There was nothing of
peculiar interest upon this route； the land inclined upwards from the
sea for six or seven miles to the foot of the mountain range； all of
which was either cultivated with cereals or was covered with caroub…
trees and olives。 Many villages were dotted over the surface； these were
green with mulberry and various fruit…trees。 With the sea upon our
right； and the waves dashing briskly upon the rocky shore； the scene was
agreeable； but the sun was hot； and we were not sorry to see the distant
minarets of Ktima after a ride of seventeen miles from Arodes。
We passed the ruins of ancient Paphos upon our right； and shortly
afterwards ascended the rocky slope upon which the capital of the
district； Ktima； is situated。 It is a large town； and as we rode through
the bazaar the narrow street was almost blocked with huge piles of
oranges that had been imported from Jaffa； the season for the Cyprus
fruit being nearly over。
Iiani was exceedingly stupid in selecting camping…ground； therefore
upon arrival at a new place we invariably had to explore the
neighbourhood； like migratory birds landed upon strange shores。 We
accordingly rode through the considerable town of Ktima amidst the
barking and snapping of innumerable dogs； who attacked our British
spaniels； keeping up a running fight throughout the way； until we
emerged upon open country beyond the outskirts。
We were now once more upon a flat table…top； about a hundred feet above
the plain between us and the sea； a mile and a half distant。 The edge of
the table…land formed a cliff； choked from its base with huge fallen
blocks of sedimentary limestone； from the crevices of which trees grew
in great profusion； reminding one of hanging coverts upon hill…sides in
England。 Descending a steep but well…trodden path between these
cottage…like masses of disjointed rock； we arrived at the prettiest
camping…ground that I had seen in Cyprus。 This had formed the camp of
the Indian troops when the occupation had taken place in July； 1878； and
unfortunately in this charming spot they had suffered severely from
fever。
The sea and the town and port of Baffo lay before us； but immediately in
front of the rocky and tree…covered heights that we had descended were
great numbers of park…like trees which I had never before met with。
These were of large size； many exceeding fourteen feet in girth； with a
beautiful foliage that threw a dense shade beneath。 The name of this
tree is Tremithia； and it bears a small fruit in clusters of berries
which produce oil： this is used by the inhabitants for the same purposes
as that obtained from olives。 I had met with the bush in a wild state
for the first time at Lapithus； and had been attracted by the aromatic
scent of the young leaves； but I was not aware that it grew to the size
of a forest…tree。 Springs of pure water issued from the rocks in the
cliff…side within a few yards of our position； these were caught in
large reservoirs of masonry from twenty to thirty feet square and six
feet deep； from the bottom of which the water could be liberated for the
purposes of irrigation。 We selected a position upon a terrace beneath a
number of these splendid tremithias； which afforded a shade during all
hours of the day。 The little stream rippled just below； passing by the
roots of the trees that sheltered us； and watered a rich and dark green
plot of about two acres ofneither roses； nor violets； but something
far better； which at once delighted our cook Christoonions！ According
to his practical ideas the Garden of Eden would have been a mere
wilderness in the absence of a bed of onions； but at length we had
entered upon Paradise； this WAS a charming place！ For some distance
beyond this captivating plot the tremithias （which at a distance
resembled fine…headed oaks） ornamented the surface and gave a park…like
appearance to the country； but beyond them the plain was a gentle slope；
highly cultivated towards the sea。 Long before the arrival of our
baggage animals we had visitors； Captain Wauchope； the chief
commissioner of the district； and several officers in official
positions； were kind enough to call。 An old man and his wife； the
proprietors of the onions； who lived close by； brought us some
rush…bottomed chairs with much civility； and as the day wore on a long
string of visitors appeared； including the Bishop and some of the native
officials； and we were of course surrounded with the usual throng of
women and children： these were cleaner and better looking than those we
had hitherto encountered。
The camels did not appear until late in the evening； as they had
descended the steep pass from the table…land of Arodes with much
difficulty； and liani's 〃antique〃 had again fallen； repeatedly； and
necessitated a division of his load； which already had been reduced to
that of a donkey。
When the sun rose on the following morning I walked into Ktima by a good
path； that led through the rocks along the base of the cliff until it
ascended gradually to the town。 Although the cyclamens were past their
bloom； their variegated leaves ornamented the white stones as they
emerged like bouquets from the crevices of fallen rock。 There was little
of interest in the town； which hardly repaid a walk： it left the same
depressing feeling that I had so often experienced in our journey
through Cyprus： 〃The past had been great； and the present was nothing。〃
The little insignificant harbour exhibited a few small craft of about
twenty tons。 There was a small fort and a British flag； there were also
the ruins of ancient Paphos； but there was nothing to denote progress or
commercial activity。 In the afternoon Captain Wauchope was kind enough
to accompany us over the ruins。 As I have before explained； there is
nothing of interest upon the surface of ancient cities throughout
Cyprus。 Anything worth having has been appropriated many ages since by
those who understood its value； and beyond a few fallen columns and
blocks of squared stone there is literally nothing to attract attention。
Even General di Cesnola excavated in vain upon the site of ancient
Paphos； which from its great antiquity promised an abundant harvest。
There were two fine monoliths； the bases of which； resting upon a
foundation of squared stones； appeared as though they had formed the
entrance to a temple； these were pillars of grey granite （foreign to
Cyprus） about twenty…seven feet high and three feet two inches in
diameter。
There were stony mounds in many directions； and fallen pillars and
columns of granite and of coarse grey and whitish marble； but beyond
these ordinary vestiges there was nothing of peculiar interest。 As there
is no authority equal to General di Cesnola upon the antiquities of
Cyprus； I trust he will excuse me for inserting the following
interesting extract from his work； upon The Great Centre of the Worship
of Venus：
〃Although this spot ＇Paphos＇ was the scene of great
religious events； and was otherwise important in the
island； yet neither are there more than a very few
ruins existing above ground； nor have the explorations
I have directed there at different times succeeded in
bringing to light anything of interest。 I believe that
this absence of ruins can be accounted for in the
following manner。 Paphos was several times overthrown
by earthquakes。 The last time the temple was rebuilt
was by Vespasian； on whose coins it is represented； but
as nothing is said of the rebuilding of the city it is
supposed that it was left in ruins； probably therefore
during the long period that Cyprus was under the Roman
and the Byzantine rule a great deal of the decorative
and architectural material of Paphos was transported to
the other city called Nea…Paphos； and used for its
embellishment。 In the Acts of the Apostles it is spoken
of as the official residence of the Roman proconsul
Paulus Sergius； and was therefore the capital of the
island。 By the time of the Lusignan kings Palaeo…Paphos
had disappeared； and its ruins under their reign were
extensively explored in search of statuary and other
objects of art； with which to decorate the royal castle
built in its vicinity。 There is scarcely any ancient
tomb to be found of a date previous to the Roman period
which had not been opened centuries ago。〃
In page 207 General di Cesnola gives an illustration of 〃stone feet with
a Cypriote inscription； from the temple of Paphos；〃 which would suggest
from their appearance that gout was not