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a Cypriote inscription； from the temple of Paphos；〃 which would suggest
from their appearance that gout was not uncommon even within the temple
of Venus。 In continuation he writes； page 210：
〃The great temple of Venus was situated on an
eminence； which at present is at a distance of about
twenty…five minutes' walk from the sea。 Some parts
of its colossal walls are still standing； defying time and
the stone…cutter； though badly chipped by the latter。
One of the wall…stones measured fifteen feet ten
inches in length； by seven feet eleven inches in width
and two feet five inches in thickness。 The stone is
not from Cyprus； but being a kind of blue granite；
must have been imported either from Cilicia or from
Egypt。
〃The temple as rebuilt by Vespasian seems to have
occupied the same area as the former temple； and was
surrounded by a peribolos； or outer wall。 Of this
a few huge blocks only are now extant。 On the west
side of this outer wall there was a doorway still
plainly visible。 Its width was seventeen feet nine
inches。 The two sockets for the bolts upon which
the door swung are of the following dimensions：
length six inches； width four and a half inches； depth
three and a half inches。 The south…east wall； I ascertained；
by excavating its whole length； was690 feet
long。 The length of the west side I could only trace
as far as 272 feet； its continuance being hiddenbeneath
the houses of Kouklia。 The length of the other two
sides I was unable to ascertain for similarreasons。
The walls of the temple itself； made of the kind of
stone previously mentioned； but not in such huge
blocks； I was able to trace correctly； bydint of
patience； and though very little is seen above ground；
yet； strange to say； the four corner…stonesare still
standing。 The north…east corner…stone iscased in
a house in Kouklia； forming part of its wall； that
of the north…west stands in a cross…street of the village
by itself。 Some European travellers have mistaken it
from its present shape for the emblematic cone of
Venus。 The south…east corner stands also by itself
in an open field； where the Christian population of
Kouklia burn lamps and little wax…candles； but in
honour of whom； or for what purpose； I did not
inquire。 The fourth corner…stone likewise forms part
of a modern dwelling…house。
〃The temple was oblong and of the following
dimensions： the eastern and western walls measure
221 feet； and the two other sides 167 feet。 I cannot
vouch for the exact measurement on account of the
difficulties I had to encounter； nevertheless the difference
can be of some inches only。 The corner…stone of
the north…west side has a hole in it thirteen inches in
diameter； a similar hole also exists in the south…west
corner of the outer wall。 As the temple at Paphos
possessed an oracle； these strange holes； which go
through the entire stone； may have been connected
with it。 This at least was the opinion of Dr。
Friederichs when he came to pay me a visit at
Paphos。
〃From this spot； if a person stand upon this huge
perforated stone； he can produce a clear and fine echo
of a phrase of three or four words； pronounced in a
hollow tone of voice。〃
It is quite possible that the tricks of acoustics may have been
practised by the priests who officiated at oracular shrines； which would
have awed the ignorant multitude； as in sacred groves a tree might have
been made to speak by the simple contrivance of a man concealed within
the hollow stem； which to outward appearance would have been considered
solid。 The devices of priestcraft to bring grist to their mill are not
yet obsolete； as will be seen in many of the monasteries of Cyprus。
All the grandeur of ancient days was now represented by the heaps of
stones and the rock caverns which mark the site of Paphos。 What became
of Venus after her appearance upon this shore may be left to the
imagination； why she is represented by the exceedingly plain women of
modern Cyprus surpasses the imagination。 Perhaps the immorality
connected with the ancient worship of the goddess of beauty and of love
invoked a curse upon the descendants in the shape of 〃baggy trousers；
high boots； and ugliness：〃 to which dirt has been a painful addition。
CHAPTER IX。
FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL。
We left Ktima on 23rd April for Limasol。 The weather was now perfect for
out…door life； the thermometer 52 degrees at 7 A。M。； and 70 degrees at 3
P。M。 The route was agreeable； the crops were well irrigated by numerous
streams led from the mountains； and the country generally was green and
well wooded。 After a march of fourteen miles； during which we had passed
the ruins of several ancient aqueducts； we arrived at a running stream
which issued from a narrow valley between cliffs and hills and emptied
itself upon the sea…beach。 A number of tamarisks formed a jungle near
the mouth； and the banks were a bright rose…colour； owing to the full
bloom of thickets of oleanders。 This was a charming halting…place； and
as the beach was strewn with dry timber that had been brought down from
the mountains during the season when the stream was powerful； we should
have a good supply of fuel in addition to fresh water。 The route had
been along the flat parallel with the sea from Ktima； and I noticed a
wonderful change in the pace of the camels； as I had summoned Iiani when
at the capital of the district before the Cadi at the Konak； and the
chief commissioner had added his voice to the threat and monitions he
had received concerning his future conduct regarding early starting and
attention to my orders。 Captain Wauchope had kindly furnished me with an
excellent Turkish zaphtieh； or mounted policeman； whose red jacket and
fez commanded a certain respect。 This man was mounted upon a strong；
well…built； and exceedingly active pony； or small horse； which led the
way； as our new guide thoroughly knew the country。
While all hands were pitching the tent upon a sandy turf within a few
yards of the sea…beach I took the dogs for a ramble up the
thickly…wooded valley along the banks of the stream； as I had observed a
number of blue…rock pigeons among the white cliffs； and I thought I
might perhaps find a hare for the evening stew。 I killed some pigeons；
but did not move a hare； although the dogs worked through most promising
ground； where green crops upon the flat bottom surrounded by thick
coverts afford both food and shelter。 We were returning to camp when I
suddenly heard Merry and Shot barking savagely in some thick bushes upon
the steep bank of the stream。 At first I thought they had found a
hedgehog； which was always Shot's amusement； as he constantly brought
them into camp after he had managed to obtain a hold of their prickly
bodies。 The barking continued； and as I could not penetrate the bush； I
called the dogs off。 They joined me almost immediately； looking rather
scared。 It now occurred to me that they might have found a snake； as a
few days ago I had heard Merry barking in a similar manner； and upon
joining him I had discovered a snake coiled up with head erect in an
attitude of defence。 I had killed the snake and scolded the dog； as I
feared he would come to an untimely end； should he commence snake…
hunting in so prolific a field as Cyprus。 Since that time all the dogs
hunted the countless lizards which ran across the path during the march；
and Shot was most determined in his endeavours to scratch them out of
their holes。
I had called my three dogs together； and we were walking across a field
of green wheat； when I suddenly missed Shot； and he was discovered lying
down about fifty paces in our rear。 Merry； who usually was pluck and
energy itself； was following at my heels and looking stupid and subdued。
This dog was indomitable； and his fault was wildness at the commencement
of the day； I could not now induce him to hunt； and his eyes had a
peculiar expression； as though his system had suffered some severe
shock。 Shot came slowly when I called him； but he walked with
difficulty； and his jaws were swollen。 I now felt sure that the dogs
were bitten by a snake； which they had been baying when I heard them in
the bush about five minutes before。 We were very near the camp； and the
dog crept home slowly at my heels。 Upon examination there was no doubt
of the cause； Shot had wounds of a snake's fangs upon his lip； under the
eye； and upon one ear； he must have been the first bitten； as he had
evidently received the greatest discharge of poison。 Merry was bitten in
the mouth and in one ear； both of which were already swollen； but not to
the same degree as Shot； who； within an hour； had a head as large as a
small calf's； and his eyes were completely closed。 I had not the
slightest hope of his recovery； as his throat had swollen to an enormous
size； which threatened suffocation。 I could do nothing for the poor dogs
but oil their mouths； although knew that the poison would assuredly
spread throughout the system。 The dogs ha