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spread throughout the system。 The dogs had been bitten at about 3。40
P。M。 At 8 P。M。 （our dinner…hour） Shot was a shapeless mass； and his
limbs were stiff； the skin of his throat and fore…part of his body
beneath his curly white and liver…coloured hair was perfectly black； his
jowl； which now hung three inches below his jaws； was also inky black；
as were his swollen tongue and palate。 Merry's head and throat were
swollen badly； and he lay by the blazing fire of logs half stupefied and
devoid of observation。
On the following morning Shot was evidently dying； he did not appear to
suffer pain； but was in a state of coma and swelled to such a degree
that he resembled the skin of an animal that had been badly stuffed with
hay。 Merry was worse than on the preceding night； and lay in a state of
stupor。 I carried him to the sea and dipped him several times beneath
the water； this appeared slightly to revive him； and he was placed in a
large saddle…bag to be carried on a mule for the day's march。 Shot had
been quite unconscious； and when the men prepared an animal to carry
him； it was found that he was already dead。 This was a little after 8
A。M。； and he had been bitten at about 3。40 P。 M。： about 16 and a half
hours had elapsed。 My men dug a grave and buried the poor animal； who
had been a faithful dog and an excellent retriever。 From Merry's
appearance I expected that we should have to attend to his remains in
the same manner before the evening。
Snakes are very numerous in Cyprus； but I cannot believe in any great
danger if these generally hated creatures should be avoided。 If dogs
will insist upon hunting and attacking them； they must be bitten as a
natural consequence； in this fatal case there can be no doubt that the
dog Shot was the first to discover and attack the snake； and Merry； upon
hearing him bark； joined in the fight。 It is quite unnatural for any of
the serpent tribe to attack； except for the purpose of devouring their
natural prey。 As a general rule； the food of snakes consists of rats；
mice； frogs； or toads； beetles； and other insects； the pythons and
larger serpents feed upon such animals as hares； birds； and the young of
either antelopes； deer； pigs； &c。 Although a snake if trodden upon might
by a spasmodic impulse inflict a bite； it would nine times out of ten
endeavour to escape。 The idea of any snake wilfully and maliciously
premeditating an attack upon a man is quite out of the question； unless
it has been either teased or excited by a dog when hunting。 The same
principle will hold good in the case of animals。 No snake that feeds
only upon rats； mice； and such small animals would seek to attack a dog；
or any creature that was not its natural prey； and the actual danger
from such reptiles is quite insignificant。 The stories that are
circulated of accidents are mostly exaggerated； or are perpetuated by
constant repetition。 I have been in snake countries such as Ceylon and
Africa during many years； the greater portion of which has been passed
in practical explorations； and I can safely say that I never thought of
snakes until they met my eye； and no person that I ever knew was killed
by a poisonous bite。 In Cyprus there are several varieties。 I have only
seen three； a black species which is harmless； a mottled variety also
non…poisonous； and a grey snake that is supposed to be deadly； there may
be more； but I have never met with them。 The stony nature of the
country； and the bush…covered surface of the hills； together with the
dryness of the climate； are all favourable to the development of snakes
and lizards。 The latter are exceedingly numerous； and are most valuable
destroyers of insects； there are several varieties； but the most common
is the bright copper…coloured species with a smooth skin。 The chameleon
also exists。
Although we had never taken the presence of snakes into serious
consideration； the horrible effect of the bite upon the dogs made every
one on the alert during the march over the rocky and bushy country from
our camp to Evdimu。 Our guide scorned a beaten track； and after having
kept the regular path along the sea…coast for a mile； he struck
directly up the mountain； which descended in a steep cliff to the shore；
against which the waves dashed with violence。 The country was
exceedingly wild for some miles as we ascended through bush of young
pines； dwarf…cypress； and mastic； occasionally passing pines of larger
growth； which had； as usual； been mutilated。 We moved partridges in
several places； but these were old birds packed in considerable numbers：
a bad sign at this season； when they should have been sitting upon eggs。
At an elevation of about 1000 feet above the sea we came upon a park of
caroub…trees； in which was a spring of water； large flocks of goats and
cattle； together with many mules and horses； were roaming through this
verdant district； which afforded abundant pasturage in the shape of wild
artichokes； a variety of succulent thistles； and many plants suitable to
the native animals in the absence of actual grasses。 This is a
distressing want throughout Cyprus； when the country is green； the
verdure is produced by cultivated crops of cereals； which quickly change
to yellow as they ripen； all the natural productions of the earth are
what in England we should term 〃weeds 〃there is no real grass； except
in some rare localities where a species of 〃couch…grass〃 （the British
farmer's enemy） crawls along the surface； being nourished by its knotty
roots； which； penetrating into the deep soil； are enabled to escape the
burning sun。
Upon reaching the summit； about 1200 feet above the sea； we looked over
the richest landscape that I had seen in Cyprus。 A succession of broad
valleys and undulating hills gradually ascended； until in the far
distance they terminated in elevated plateaux upwards of 2000 feet above
the sea。 The whole of this district； as far and no doubt much farther
than the eye could reach； was richly wooded with caroub…trees and
occasional olive…groves； while the distant villages were marked by the
peculiar light…green of mulberry…clumps and other fruit…trees。 The
bottoms of the numerous valleys were dark with well…irrigated crops of
cereals； and contrasted strongly with those of the higher ground； which
had depended solely upon the uncertain rainfall。
There were beautiful sites for country residences throughout this scene；
and it appeared strange that no house was visible except the ordinary
mud…built dwellings in the native villages。 The route over this country
was abominable； as it was a succession of the steepest ups…and…downs
into valleys many hundred feet in depth； which necessitated a scramble
up a rocky zigzag for a similar height above； to be repeated after we
had crossed each shoulder that formed a spur from the distant mountains；
the drainage being at right angles to our path。 Every plateau exhibited
the same lovely view of the sea； cliffs of snow…white cretaceous rock；
green hills； and deep vales； through which a stream of water had given
birth to a thick growth of foliage。 After a march of fourteen miles we
halted in a deep dell beneath shady caroubs； a few yards from a brook of
clear water which irrigated some of the richest crops I had seen in
Cyprus。 When the camels arrived Merry was very bad； and his skin beneath
the hair had turned black； he lapped water with difficulty； as his
tongue and mouth were swollen to a great size and were also black。 As
the dog could not eat I poured a quantity of olive…oil down his throat。
The large village of Evdimu was about a mile above us； and was
distinguishable from the heights。 A new and important church was in
process of construction； upon which some Italian workmen were employed；
and an air of prosperity in this neighbourhood contrasted favourably
with most portions of the island。 The cock…birds of francolins were
crowing in all directions； and when rambling with Wise； my now solitary
dog； vainly searching for a hare； I found several pairs of red…legged
partridges； which of course at this season I respected。
The march on the following day was a continuation of the same beautiful
country； until we at length reached the table…top of a stupendous cliff
perpendicular to the sea； which washed its base。 The path was in many
places only a few feet from the edge； and afforded a magnificent view。
The table…land upon which we rode was covered with evergreen shrubs and
young pines； and the same rich landscape that we had admired on the
previous day extended towards the mountains of the interior。 The road
had been as rough as could be imagined； and we now descended the last
steep incline from the heights； which led into the plain below。 The salt
lake； which adds an important amount to the revenue of Cyprus； lay
beneath us upon the right； in the heart of the peninsula of Akrotiri；
immediately below were the ruins of ancient Curium； but to us
invisible。 。 。 。
We arrived at the town of Episkopi。 Captain Savile thus describes it：
〃A pleasantly situated village； standing on the
Episkopi or Lycos river； and very abundantly supplied
with water。 The houses are surrounded with
fruitful gardens； an