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Episkopi or Lycos river； and very abundantly supplied
with water。 The houses are surrounded with
fruitful gardens； and there are fields of grain and
cotton in the vicinity。 The inhabitants have however
very small holdings； and are； as a rule； miserably
poor。 In former days Episkopi was a rich city； and
contained in the Venetian times large manufactories；
of its ancient greatness now remain the ruins of an
aqueduct； immense storehouses or vaults； and several
ruined Greek churches。 The spurs from Mount
Troodos extend nearly down to the shore； and the
road follows the coast…line； traversing a very beautiful
country； the ground in spring is covered with flowers
and aromatic herbs； and the ravines are filled with a
luxuriant growth of cypresses； wild…olives； and flowering
shrubs。〃
There was nothing to induce a delay in Episkopi； but an addition may be
made to the above description in stating that the river which has
fertilised the spot and made it famous originates in the Troodos range。
Later on； during the summer months； I often rested at the faintly
dripping source of its first mountain affluent near the top of Troodos；
which by degrees acquires strength from the Olympus drainage to form an
important stream。
We passed quickly through Episkopi with its fruitful gardens； narrow
streets； and yelling curs。 Poor Wise was now alone； and we could no
longer exhibit a combined front of three British lions to the snapping
curs of Cyprus； therefore the dog Wise…ly kept close to the heels of our
guide's pony and just before me； which； without the ignominy of retreat；
secured his position from all assailants。 We passed below the ancient
aqueduct； which conveyed a powerful volume of water to the turbine…wheel
upon our right； and at length emerging from the town； we entered once
more upon the plain； and steering for a large square tower which we had
remarked when at the summit of the heights； we shortly arrived at the
thriving village of Kolossi； about a mile and three…quarters distant。
This large village was a waving sea of barley； some of the finest that I
had seen； and due to artificial irrigation。 An ancient aqueduct of
masonry turned a mill close to the large square tower that we had
previously observed。 We halted for luncheon beneath an olive…tree a few
yards distant from the aqueduct； in a garden of fruit…trees which were
in the brightness of a spring foliage。
The square tower of masonry must have formed a portion of defensive
works that have disappeared； as there is no flanking protection； but the
tower rises above the plain to a height of about sixty feet like a huge
block of stone。 It is said to have been erected by the Knights Templars；
and is of great solidity； but such experienced soldiers would hardly
have constructed so important a work without due regard to the first
rules of fortification。
After luncheon； the camels having arrived； I would not allow them to
unload； but directed them straight to Limasol。 Of course their owners
declared the distance to be a long day's march； but as the map showed it
to be six miles； I insisted。
From Kolossi the country was perfectly open and cultivated； the
peasantry were engaged in reaping barley； which was carried away upon
donkeys' backs instead of being conveyed by carts。 The usual
caroub…trees； although plentiful upon the rising ground in the distance；
were few and far between； and from this to Limasol； which was now in
view； the beauty of the landscape had departed 。 。 。 。 。 I dislike the
approach to a large town in a semi…wild country； the charming simplicity
and independence of travelling is destroyed； and the servants become
more or less demoralised by a love of new associations which produces a
neglect of duty。 Iiani was with us in addition to our guide the
zaphtieh； therefore； as an utter stranger to the locality； I ordered
them to lead us to a convenient camping…ground。 As we approached the
town there were the usual minarets and date…palms； and several vessels；
including steamers； were lying in the roadstead。 We halted near the
entrance in a forsaken garden； where the walls were broken down and the
unwatered orange…trees； although in faint blossom； were parched and
faded。 Two very large apricot…trees promised a shade for the tent； but
the sakyeeah； or water…wheel； together with two powerful English
lifting…pumps that were connected with a large reservoir and aqueduct of
masonry； were in the last stage of rust and rottenness。 I was not
prepossessed with the aspect of the spot； as it reminded me strongly of
an English property in charge of the Court of Chancery。 The baggage
animals with the tents arrived while our people were employed in
clearing a space beneath the trees from the innumerable stones； which；
as usual throughout Cyprus； covered the surface。 The servants were
busily engaged in erecting the tent； when a long； lanky individual； with
a repulsive countenance； marched through the little crowd and haughtily
inquired 〃who we were； and what business we had there？〃
This was the first instance of incivility that I had met with in our
journey through the island。 The man was a Turk； and was not the
proprietor； but only the agent for this wretchedly…neglected property。
The unfortunate owner was sleeping with his fathers； or he would； I feel
sure； have welcomed us with true Turkish politeness and hospitality but
having departed this life； some legal difficulties had occasioned
trouble； and the estate was in the hands of the uncivil agent； who； of
course； being nobody； assumed the airs of somebody； and endeavoured by
rudeness to exhibit his importance。 We were travel…stained and dusty as
millers； therefore our personal appearance had not impressed him
favourably； he was in a thread…bare long black cloth habit that
combined the cloak； dressing…gown； and frock…coat in a manner
inexplicable； and known only to Turks。 This garment was trimmed in the
front edges with rather mangy…looking fox…skin： loose pegtop trousers of
greasy…looking cloth； dirty and threadbare； completed the costume of the
great curiosity of Cyprus； 〃a rude person。〃
I was not at the time aware that he understood Arabic； and happily I
addressed Amarn in that language； expressing my surprise that in this
country； where we had travelled so widely and found civility upon all
sides； we should be subjected to such rudeness。 My servants； who were
more annoyed than myself； spoke rather loudly； and assured him that if
he was a Turk； their master was a pasha of his Sultan； and we would at
once quit his miserable neglected ground and mention his inhospitality
to the chief commissioner。 By this time the rear baggage animals had
appeared； and the imposing array of luggage and people seemed to impress
him with the fact that we were neither gipsies nor vagabonds。 I
explained to him that we should not have presumed to intrude within a
walled garden； but as the old walls had disappeared and the place was in
an open and ruinous condition； we had trespassed innocently。 He
disappeared with an apology； but upon the first opportunity after we had
examined the neighbourhood of Limasol we changed our camp to a good
position on the eastern outskirts of the town。 This side was rich in
caroub…trees； and had grass existed it would have formed a park： the
ground sloped from the mountains； about six miles distant； gradually to
the sea； the surface was richly wooded by caroubs throughout； and the
soil was cultivated with barley； which was already in the hands of
reapers。 There were six caroub…trees in a line which connected their
shade； and we soon cleared the cultivated； but withered； surface of the
large clods of earth； which； having been turned up by the plough； had
baked beneath the sun into the hardness of bricks； these were arranged
in a square to mark the limits of the camp； while the interior area was
pounded to produce an even floor； from this position we looked upon the
sea； about a quarter of a mile distant； and upon the town of Limasol
upon our right。
No town in Cyprus exhibited the results of a British occupation to the
same extent as Limasol。 The chief commissioner； Colonel Warren； R。A。；
was an officer of great energy and ability； and he had grappled
vigorously with every difficulty and cleansed the Augean stables
thoroughly。 The town is about a mile and a half in length； and faces the
sea in a position somewhat similar to that of Larnaca。 The quay is
washed by the waves； which in stormy weather dash against the houses； at
which times it is impossible to land from boats； and crews must remain
on board their vessels safely anchored in the roadstead。 Although not so
extensive as Larnaca； Limasol is more compact； and the houses and
gardens are superior。 Owing to the active authority of the chief
commissioner； the streets were scrupulously clean； and all the refuse of
the town was conveyed to a safe distance。 A public market had been
recently arranged； covered with corrugated galvanised iron； in which the
departments for meat； vegetables； &c。； were kept separate； and the
appearance and organisation resembled a market…place in England。 Th