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a sliding deck formed of movable planks afforded a comfortable
sleeping…berth for a servant。 In the front a projecting roof sheltered
the driving seat； which was wide enough to accommodate four persons。 I
had fitted a pole instead of shafts； as public opinion decided against
mules； and it was agreed that oxen were steadier and more powerful for
draught purposes。 After a careful selection； I obtained two pairs of
very beautiful animals； quite equal in size to ordinary English oxen；
for which I paid twelve shillings per diem； including the drivers and
all expenses of fodder。 I also engaged the necessary riding mules； as
the vans were not intended for personal travelling； but merely for
luggage and for a home at night。 Our servants consisted of Amarn （my
Abyssinian； who had been with me eight years； since he was a a boy of
nine years old in Africa）； a Greek cook named Christo； who had served in
a similar capacity upon numerous steamers； and a young man named Georgi；
of about twenty…one； who was to be made into a servant。 This young
fellow had appeared one day suddenly； and solicited employment； while we
were staying at Craddock's Hotel； he was short； thickset； and possessed
a head of hair that would have raised the envy of Absalom： in dense
tangle it would have defied a mane…comb。 Georgi had a pleasant
expression of countenance which did not harmonise with his exterior； as
his clothes were in a ragged and filthy condition； his shoes were in
tatters； and trodden down at the heel to a degree that resembled boats
in the act of capsizing； these exposed the remnants of socks； through
the gaps of which the skin of his feet was exhibited in anything but
flesh…colour。 It is dangerous to pick up a 〃waif and stray；〃 as such
objects of philanthropy frequently disappear at the same time as the
forks and spoons。 In reply to my questions； I discovered that Georgi was
in fact the 〃prodigal son；〃 he had not been leading the fast life of
that historical character； but he had left his home in Mersine （on the
coast of Asia Minor） owing to an unfortunate disagreement with his
father。 In such domestic estrangements； rightly or wrongly； the fathers
generally have the best of the situation； and Georgi； having left a
comfortable home （his father being what is called 〃well to do〃）； had
taken ship； and； like many others； had steered for Cyprus； where he
arrived unknown； and quickly experienced the desolation of an utter
stranger in a foreign town。 Georgi became hungry； whether he had sold
his good clothes to provide for the coats of his stomach I cannot say；
but the rags in which he first appeared to me were utterly unsaleable；
and few people would have ventured upon an engagement with so
disreputable a person。 However； I liked his face； he could speak Turkish
and Arabic fluently： Greek was his mother…tongue； and he had a
smattering of French。 I sent for the tailor； and had him measured for a
suit of clothes to match those of Amarna tunic； waistcoat；
knickerbockers； and gaiters of navy…blue serge。 In a few days Georgi was
transformed into a respectable…looking servant； with his hair cut。
We left Larnaca on the 29th of January。 A native two…wheeled cart
conveyed the tents and superabundant baggage。 The oxen made no
difficulty； and the gipsy…van rolled easily along。 An enterprising
photographer； having posted himself in a certain position near the
highway； suddenly stopped our party； and subsequently produced a
facsimile； although my dogs； who were in movement； came out with
phantom…like shadows。 These useful companions were three spaniels
〃Merry；〃 〃Wise；〃 and 〃Shot；〃 the latter had a broken foreleg through
an accident in the previous year； but he was an excellent retriever； and
could work slowly。 The others were younger dogs； whose characters were
well represented by their names； the first was an untiring； determined
animal； and Wise was a steady hunter that would face the worst thorns；
and was a good retriever。
This party was now in movement； and I intended to make a preliminary
detour from the Nicosia route to visit the springs of Arpera； about
eight miles distant； which supply the town of Larnaca。
In every country where I have travelled I have observed a human weakness
among the population on the question of 〃game；〃 there is a universal
tendency to exaggeration； but the locality of superabundance is always
distant from the narrator。 As you proceed the game recedes； and you are
informed that 〃at about two days' march you will find even more than you
require。〃 Upon arrival at the wished…for spot you are told that
〃formerly there was a large quantity； but that times and seasons have
changed； that about three marches in your front will bring you to a
hunter's paradise；〃 &c。 As Cyprus was an island of only 140 miles in
length； there would be a limit to these boundless descriptions； but I
had already heard enough to assure me that the usual want of veracity
upon this subject was present in the accounts I had received。 The
newspaper correspondents had just contributed ridiculous reports to
their several employers。 Because the market of Larnaca was well supplied
with woodcocks； red…legged partridges； and hares； at low prices； these
overworked gentlemen of the pen rushed to a conclusion that the island
teemed with game： forgetful of the fact that every Cypriote has a gun；
and that numbers were shooting for the consumption of the few。 Larnaca
was the common centre towards which all gravitated。 As the rate of wages
was only one shilling a day； it may be imagined that sport afforded an
equally remunerative employment； and game was forwarded from all
distances to be hawked about the public thoroughfares。 The fact is； that
game is very scarce throughout Cyprus； and the books that have been
written upon this country are certainly not the productions of
sportsmen。
I had read in no mean authority that 〃the surface of the ground was
covered with heather〃positively there is no such plant in Cyprus as
heath or heather。 As we passed the outskirts of Larnaca； we were
introduced to the misery of the plain of Messaria； the so…called heather
is a low thorny bush about twelve inches high； which at a distance has
some resemblance to the plant in question。 Brown is the prevailing
colour in this portion of the island； and the aspect was not cheerful as
we slowly marched along the native track or highway towards Arpera；
carefully avoiding the new government macadamised road。
It is a melancholy neighbourhood。 A few graves that had been robbed were
open； forming pitfalls for the unwary； other yawning holes had
discovered ancient tombs by the soakage of a recent heavy shower； which
had washed in the roof and exposed the cavity。 We passed a small mosque
where there is the tomb of a saint many feet below the level of the
surface； and we shortly came in view of the salt lake about a mile and
three…quarters from the town of Larnaca。 We halted about two miles from
the town upon the high ground to admire the aqueduct which crosses the
valley from the village of Cheflik Pacha。 This is a very important work。
The masonry is about thirty…six feet above the lowest portion of the
valley； which it spans in thirty…two arches； covering a distance of
about four hundred and twenty yards from height to height。 The water
flows in an open canal of cement along the surface； but upon the ground
level it is protected by a covering of stone and lime； until it reaches
the town of Larnaca。 A stream of fresh water flows through the valley
beneath the arches of the aqueduct； at a right angle； and is
artificially separated from the salt lake below by means of a dyke of
earth which conducts it direct to the sea。 This was rendered necessary
by the floods of the rainy seasons； which carried so large a volume of
fresh water into the lake as to resist the power of evaporation during
the summer months。 The salt lakes of Larnaca are several miles in
extent； and are computed by the late British consul； Mr。 Watkins； to
possess a productive power of 20；000；000 okes （2 3/4 lbs。） per annum。 M。
Gaudry； in his clever work upon Cyprus； attributes the formation of salt
to the fact of the sea…water percolating through the sand； and thus
filling the lake；this theory is disputed； and I incline to the native
belief； 〃that the salt lies within the soil； and is taken into solution
by the water； which deposits the same amount upon the dry surface when
exhausted by evaporation。〃 In support of this opinion； I adduce a proof
in the fact of the small freshwater stream which flows from the higher
ground through the arches of the aqueduct； depositing salt as its
surface contracts during the dry season。
A strong efflorescence of true chloride of sodium is left upon the sides
of its bed and upon the bottom as the water becomes exhausted； this must
be the salt which the fresh water has robbed from the soil of the valley
through which it flows。 In many portions of Cyprus I have observed； a
few days after a heavy shower； a considerable amount of salt upon the
surface。 I know many instances of fresh…water lakes being divided from
the sea by only a few yards of sandy beach； and I do not accept as fact
that salt water