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western side； covered with pine forests； which at this distance did not
exhibit the mutilations of the axe。 At this early hour the sea was blue
and clear； as the sun had not yet heated the air and produced the usual
haze which destroys the distant views： and the tops of the lower
mountains above Omodos and Chilani appeared almost close beneath upon
the south； their vine…covered surface producing a rich contrast to the
glaring white marls that were cleared for next year's planting。 The top
of Troodos was not visible； as we continued the ascent along the ridge；
with the great depths of ravines and pine…covered steeps upon either
side； but several imposing heights in front； and upon the right； seemed
to closely rival the true highest point。
As we ascended； the surface vegetation became scanty； the rocks in many
places had been thickly clothed with the common fern growing in dense
masses from the soil among the interstices； the white cistus and the
purple variety had formed a gummy bed of plants which； together with
several aromatic herbs； emitted a peculiar perfume in the cool morning
air。 These now gave place to the hardy berberris which grew in thick
prickly bushes at long intervals； leaving a bare surface of rocks
between them devoid of vegetation。 There was little of geological
interest； gneiss and syenite predominated； with extremely large crystals
of hornblende in the latter rock； that would have afforded handsome
slabs had not the prevailing defect throughout Cyprus rendered all
blocks imperfect through innumerable cracks and fissures。 A peculiar
greenish and greasy…looking rock resembling soapstone was occasionally
met with in veins； and upon close examination I discovered it to be the
base of asbestos。 The surface of this green substance was like polished
horn； which gradually became fibrous； and in some specimens developed
towards the extremity into the true white hairy condition of the
well…known mineral cotton。
We were near the summit of the mountain； and arrived at an ancient camp
that had been arranged with considerable judgment by a series of stone
walls with flanking defences for the protection of each front。 This was
many centuries ago the summer retreat of the Venetian government； and it
had formed a sanatorium。 This extends to the summit of the mountain；
where fragments of tiles denote the former existence of houses。 In the
absence of water it would have been impossible to adopt the usual custom
of mud…covered roofs； therefore tiles had been carried from the low
country。 It is supposed that the stations fell into decay at about the
period of the Turkish conquest。
A rattle of loose stones upon the opposite side of a ravine suddenly
attracted my attention； and two moving objects at about 230 yards
halted； and faced us in the usual manner of inquiry when wild animals
are disturbed to windward of their enemy。 The rocks were bare； and their
cafe…au…lait colour exactly harmonised with that of the two moufflon；
which I now made out to be fine rams with large and peculiar heads。
Motioning to my shepherd lad to sit quietly upon the ground； upon which
I was already stretched； I examined them carefully with my glass。 Had
they not been moving when first observed I should not have discovered
them； so precisely did their skins match the rocky surface of the steep
inclination upon which they stood。 They remained still for about two
minutes； affording me an excellent opportunity of examination。 The horns
were thick； and rose from the base like those of the ibex； turning
backwards； but they twisted forward from the first bend； and the points
came round towards the front in the ordinary manner of the sheep。 Like
all the wild sheep of India and other countries； the coat was devoid of
wool； but appeared to be a perfectly smooth surface of dense texture。 It
was too far for a certain shot； especially as the animals were facing
me； which is always an unsatisfactory position even when at a close
range。
I put up the 200 yards sight； and raised the rifle to my shoulder；
merely to try the view； but when sighted I could not clearly distinguish
the animal from the rocks； and I would not fire to wound。 My shepherd
lad at this moment drew his whistle； and； without orders； began to pipe
in a wild fashion； which he subsequently informed me should have induced
the moufflon to come forward towards the sound； instead of which； they
cantered off； then stopped again； as we had the wind； and at length they
disappeared among the rocks and pines。 It would be almost impossible to
obtain a shot at these wary creatures by approaching from below； as they
are generally upon high positions from which they look down for expected
enemies； and the noise of the loose rocks beneath the feet of a man
walking up the mountains would be sure to attract attention。 The only
chance of success would be to pass the night on the summit of Troodos；
and at daybreak to work downwards。
I made a long circuit in the hope of again meeting the two rams； during
which I found many fresh tracks of the past night； but nothing more。
The summit of the mountain was disappointing； as the haze occasioned by
the heat in the low country obscured the distant view。 It was 8。10。
A。M。； and the air was still deliciously cool and fresh upon the highest
point of Cyprus； which affords a complete panorama that in the month of
October or during early spring must be very beautiful。 Even now I could
distinguish Larnaca； Limasol； Morphu； all in opposite directions； in
addition to the sea surrounding the island upon every point except the
east。 The lofty coast of Caramania； which had formed a prominent object
in the landscape when at Kyrenia； was now unfortunately hidden within
the haze。
From this elevated position I could faintly hear the military band
practising at the camp of the 20th Regiment； invisible； about a mile
distant among the pine…forests； at a lower level of 700 feet。 There were
no trees upon the rounded knoll which forms the highest point of Cyprus：
these must have been cleared away and rooted out when the ancient camp
was formed； and the pines have not re…grown； for the simple reason that
no higher ground exists from which the rains could have washed the cones
to root upon a lower level。
I now examined every ravine with the greatest caution in the hopes of
meeting either the two rams； or other moufflon； but I only came across a
solitary ewe with a lamb about four months old； which I saw twice during
my walk round the mountain tops。 Upon arriving during my descent at the
highest spring of Troodos； where the cold water dripped into a narrow
stream bed； I lay down beneath a fine shady cypress； and having eaten
two hard…boiled eggs and drunk a cupful of the pure icy water mixed with
a tinge of Geneva from my flask； I watched till after noon in the hope
that my two rams might arrive to drink。 Nothing came except a few tame
goats without a goatherd； therefore I descended the abominable stones
which rattled down the mountain side； and by the time that I arrived at
our camp at Trooditissa； my best shooting boots of quagga hide； that
were as dear to me as my rifle； were almost cut to pieces。
There was a terrible picture of destruction throughout the forests of
Troodos。 Near the summit； the pines and cypress were of large growth；
but excepting the cypress； there were scarcely any trees unscathed； and
the ground was covered by magnificent spars that were felled only to rot
upon the surface。
I was not sorry to arrive at the shepherd's hut upon the ridge
overhanging the monastery upon my return。 The good wife was as usual
busy in making cheeses from the goat's milk； which is a very important
occupation throughout Cyprus。 The curd was pressed into tiny baskets
made of myrtle wands； which produced a cheese not quite so large as a
man's fist。 I think these dry and tasteless productions of the original
Cyprian dairy uneatable； unless grated when old and hard； but among the
natives they are highly esteemed； and form a considerable article of
trade and export。 Cesnola mentions that 2；000；000 （two million） cheeses
per annum are made in Cyprus of this small kind； which weigh from half a
pound to three…quarters。 I have frequently met droves of donkeys heavily
laden with panniers filled with these small cheeses； which； although
representing important numbers； become insignificant when computed by
weight。
During our stay at Trooditissa we occasionally obtained eels from a man
who caught them in the stream at the base of the mountains； this is the
only fresh…water fish in Cyprus that is indigenous。 Some persons have
averred that the gold…fish dates its origin from this island； this is a
mistake； as it is not found elsewhere than in ornamental ponds and
cisterns in the principal towns。 It is most probable that it was
introduced by the Venetians who traded with the far East； and it may
have arrived from China。
The streams below the mountains contain numerous crabs of a small
species seldom larger than two inches and a half across the shell； to a
maximum of three inches； these are in season until the middle of June；
after which they become light and empty。 When alive the