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factories。 Bromstead had almost doubted in size again long before
the railway came; there was hardly any thatch left in the High
Street; but instead were houses with handsome brass…knockered front
doors and several windows; and shops with shop…fronts all of square
glass panes; and the place was lighted publicly now by oil lamps
previously only one flickering lamp outside each of the coaching
inns had broken the nocturnal darkness。 And there was talk; it long
remained talk;of gas。 The gasworks came in 1834; and about that
date my father's three houses must have been built convenient for
the London Road。 They mark nearly the beginning of the real
suburban quality; they were let at first to City people still
engaged in business。
And then hard on the gasworks had come the railway and cheap coal;
there was a wild outbreak of brickfields upon the claylands to the
east; and the Great Growth had begun in earnest。 The agricultural
placidities that had formerly come to the very borders of the High
Street were broken up north; west and south; by new roads。 This
enterprising person and then that began to 〃run up〃 houses;
irrespective of every other enterprising person who was doing the
same thing。 A Local Board came into existence; and with much
hesitation and penny…wise economy inaugurated drainage works。 Rates
became a common topic; a fact of accumulating importance。 Several
chapels of zinc and iron appeared; and also a white new church in
commercial Gothic upon the common; and another of red brick in the
residential district out beyond the brickfields towards Chessington。
The population doubled again and doubled again; and became
particularly teeming in the prolific 〃working…class〃 district about
the deep…rutted; muddy; coal…blackened roads between the gasworks;
Blodgett's laundries; and the railway goods…yard。 Weekly
properties; that is to say small houses built by small property
owners and let by the week; sprang up also in the Cage Fields; and
presently extended right up the London Road。 A single national
school in an inconvenient situation set itself inadequately to
collect subscriptions and teach the swarming; sniffing; grimy
offspring of this dingy new population to read。 The villages of
Beckington; which used to be three miles to the west; and Blamely
four miles to the east of Bromstead; were experiencing similar
distensions and proliferations; and grew out to meet us。 All effect
of locality or community had gone from these places long before I
was born; hardly any one knew any one; there was no general meeting
place any more; the old fairs were just common nuisances haunted by
gypsies; van showmen; Cheap Jacks and London roughs; the churches
were incapable of a quarter of the population。 One or two local
papers of shameless veniality reported the proceedings of the local
Bench and the local Board; compelled tradesmen who were interested
in these affairs to advertise; used the epithet 〃Bromstedian〃 as one
expressing peculiar virtues; and so maintained in the general mind a
weak tradition of some local quality that embraced us all。 Then the
parish graveyard filled up and became a scandal; and an ambitious
area with an air of appetite was walled in by a Bromstead Cemetery
Company; and planted with suitably high…minded and sorrowful
varieties of conifer。 A stonemason took one of the earlier villas
with a front garden at the end of the High Street; and displayed a
supply of urns on pillars and headstones and crosses in stone;
marble; and granite; that would have sufficed to commemorate in
elaborate detail the entire population of Bromstead as one found it
in 1750。
The cemetery was made when I was a little boy of five or six; I was
in the full tide of building and growth from the first; the second
railway with its station at Bromstead North and the drainage
followed when I was ten or eleven; and all my childish memories are
of digging and wheeling; of woods invaded by building; roads gashed
open and littered with iron pipes amidst a fearful smell of gas; of
men peeped at and seen toiling away deep down in excavations; of
hedges broken down and replaced by planks; of wheelbarrows and
builders' sheds; of rivulets overtaken and swallowed up by drain…
pipes。 Big trees; and especially elms; cleared of undergrowth and
left standing amid such things; acquired a peculiar tattered
dinginess rather in the quality of needy widow women who have seen
happier days。
The Ravensbrook of my earlier memories was a beautiful stream。 It
came into my world out of a mysterious Beyond; out of a garden;
splashing brightly down a weir which had once been the weir of a
mill。 (Above the weir and inaccessible there were bulrushes growing
in splendid clumps; and beyond that; pampas grass; yellow and
crimson spikes of hollyhock; and blue suggestions of wonderland。)
From the pool at the foot of this initial cascade it flowed in a
leisurely fashion beside a footpath;there were two pretty thatchcd
cottages on the left; and here were ducks; and there were willows on
the right;and so came to where great trees grew on high banks on
either hand and bowed closer; and at last met overhead。 This part
was difficult to reach because of an old fence; but a little boy
might glimpse that long cavern of greenery by wading。 Either I have
actually seen kingfishers there; or my father has described them so
accurately to me that he inserted them into my memory。 I remember
them there anyhow。 Most of that overhung part I never penetrated at
all; but followed the field path with my mother and met the stream
again; where beyond there were flat meadows; Roper's meadows。 The
Ravensbrook went meandering across the middle of these; now between
steep banks; and now with wide shallows at the bends where the
cattle waded and drank。 Yellow and purple loose…strife and ordinary
rushes grew in clumps along the bank; and now and then a willow。 On
rare occasions of rapture one might see a rat cleaning his whiskers
at the water's edge。 The deep places were rich with tangled weeds;
and in them fishes lurkedto me they were big fisheswater…boatmen
and water…beetles traversed the calm surface of these still deeps;
in one pool were yellow lilies and water…soldiers; and in the shoaly
places hovering fleets of small fry basked in the sunshineto
vanish in a flash at one's shadow。 In one place; too; were Rapids;
where the stream woke with a start from a dreamless brooding into
foaming panic and babbled and hastened。 Well do I remember that
half…mile of rivulet; all other rivers and cascades have their
reference to it for me。 And after I was eleven; and before we left
Bromstead; all the delight and beauty of it was destroyed。
The volume of its water decreased abruptlyI suppose the new
drainage works that linked us up with Beckington; and made me first
acquainted with the geological quality of the London clay; had to do
with thatuntil only a weak uncleansing trickle remained。 That at
first did not strike me as a misfortune。 An adventurous small boy
might walk dryshod in places hitherto inaccessible。 But hard upon
that came the pegs; the planks and carts and devastation。 Roper's
meadows; being no longer in fear of floods; were now to be slashed
out into parallelograms of untidy road; and built upon with rows of
working…class cottages。 The roads came;horribly; the houses
followed。 They seemed to rise in the night。 People moved into them
as soon as the roofs were on; mostly workmen and their young wives;
and already in a year some of these raw houses stood empty again
from defaulting tenants; with windows broken and wood…work warping
and rotting。 The Ravensbrook became a dump for old iron; rusty
cans; abandoned boots and the like; and was a river only when
unusual rains filled it for a day or so with an inky flood of
surface water。 。 。 。
That indeed was my most striking perception in the growth of
Bromstead。 The Ravensbrook had been important to my imaginative
life; that way had always been my first choice in all my walks with
my mother; and its rapid swamping by the new urban growth made it
indicative of all the other things that had happened just before my
time; or were still; at a less dramatic pace; happening。 I realised
that building was the enemy。 I began to understand why in every
direction out of Bromstead one walked past scaffold…poles into
litter; why fragments of broken brick and cinder mingled in every
path; and the significance of the universal notice…boards; either
white and new or a year old and torn and battered; promising sites;
proffering houses to be sold or let; abusing and intimidating
passers…by for fancied trespass; and protecting rights of way。
It is difficult to disentangle now what I understood at this time