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exhaustion and were removed。
As to other spectacles； one of the most splendid was the midnight
mass on Easter eve。 At my former visit I had seen this at the
Kazan Church； now we went to the Cathedral of St。 Isaac。 The
ceremony was brilliant almost beyond conception； as in the old
days； the music was heavenly； and； as the clocks struck twelve；
the cannons of the fortress of Peter and Paul boomed forth； all
the bells of the city began chiming； and a light； appearing at
the extreme end of the church； seemed to run in all directions
through the vast assemblage； and presently all seemed ablaze。
Every person in the church was holding a taper； and within a few
moments all of these had been lighted。
Most beautiful of all was the music at another of these Easter
ceremonies； when the choristers； robed in white； came forth from
the sanctuary and sang hymns by the side of the empty sepulcher
under the dome。
The singing by the choirs in Russia is； in many respects； more
beautiful than similar music in any other part of the world； save
that of the cathedral choir of Berlin at its best。 I have heard
the Sistine； Pauline； and Lateran choirs at Rome； and they are
certainly far inferior to these Russian singers。 No instrumental
music is allowed and no voices of women。 The choristers are men
and boys。 There are several fine choirs in St。 Petersburg； but
three are famous： that of the Emperor at the Winter Palace
Chapel； that of the Archbishop at the Cathedral of St。 Isaac； and
that of the Nevski Monastery。 Occasionally there were concerts
when all were combined； and nothing in its way could be more
perfect。
Operatic music also receives careful attention。 Enormous
subsidies are given to secure the principal singers of Europe at
the Italian； French； and German theaters； but the most lavish
outlay is upon the national opera： it is considered a matter of
patriotism to maintain it at the highest point possible。 The
Russian Opera House is an enormous structure； and the finest
piece which I saw given there was Glinka's 〃Life for the Czar。〃
Being written by a Russian； on a patriotic subject； and from an
ultra…loyal point of view； everything had been done to mount it
in the most superb way possible： never have I seen more wonderful
scenic effects； the whole culminating in the return of one of the
old fighting czars to the Kremlin after his struggle with the
Poles。 The stage was enormous and the procession magnificent。 The
personages in it were the counterparts； as regarded dress； of the
persons they represented； exact copies having been made of the
robes and ornaments of the old Muscovite boyards； as preserved in
the Kremlin Museum； and at the close of this procession came a
long line of horses； in the most superb trappings imaginable；
attended by guards and outriders in liveries of barbaric
splendor； and finally the imperial coach。 We were enabled to
catch sight of the Cossack guards on the front of it； when； just
as the body of the coach was coming into view； down came the
curtain。 This was the result of a curious prohibition； enforced
in all theaters in Russia： on no account is it permitted to
represent the sacred person of any emperor upon the stage。
As to other music； very good concerts were occasionally given；
the musicians being generally from Western Europe。
Very pleasant were sundry excursions； especially during the long
summer twilight； and among these were serenade parties given by
various members of the diplomatic corps。 In a trim steam…yacht；
and carrying singers with us； we sailed among the islands in the
midnight hours； stopping； from time to time； to greet friends
occupying cottages there。
As to excursions in the empire； I have already given； in my
chapter on Tolstoi； some account of my second visit to Moscow；
and a more complete account is reserved for a chapter on 〃Sundry
Excursions and Experiences。〃 The same may be said； also；
regarding an excursion taken； during one of my vacations； in
Sweden； Norway； and Denmark。
In 1893； a new administration having brought into power the party
opposed to my own； I tendered to President Cleveland my
resignation； and； in the full expectation that it would be
accepted； gave up my apartment； but as； instead of an acceptance；
there came a very kind indication of the President's confidence；
good…will； and preference for my continuance at my post； I
remained in the service a year longer； occupying my odds and ends
of time in finishing my book。 Then； feeling the need of going
elsewhere to revise it； I wrote the President； thanking him for
his confidence and kindness； but making my resignation final； and
naming the date when it would be absolutely necessary for me to
leave Russia。 A very kind letter from him was the result； the
time I had named was accepted； and on the 1st of November； 1894；
to my especial satisfaction； I was once more free from official
duty。
CHAPTER XXXIX
AS MEMBER OF THE VENEZUELA COMMISSION1895…1896
Early one morning； just at the end of 1895； as I was at work
before the blazing fire in my library at the university； the
winter storms howling outside； a card was brought in bearing the
name of Mr。 Hamlin； assistant secretary of the treasury of the
United States。 While I was wondering what； at that time of the
year； could have brought a man from such important duties in
Washington to the bleak hills of central New York； he entered；
and soon made known his business； which was to tender me； on the
part of President Cleveland； a position upon the commission which
had been authorized by Congress to settle the boundary between
the republic of Venezuela and British Guiana。
The whole matter had attracted great attention； not only in the
United States； but throughout the world。 The appointment of the
commission was the result of a chain of circumstances very
honorable to the President； to his Secretary of State； Mr。 Olney；
and to Congress。 For years the Venezuelan government had been
endeavoring to establish a frontier between its territory and
that of its powerful neighbor； but without result； and meantime
the British boundary seemed to be pushed more and more into the
territory of the little Spanish…American republic。 For years；
too； Venezuela had appealed to the United States； and the United
States had appealed to Great Britain。 American secretaries of
state and ambassadors at the Court of St。 James had 〃trusted；〃
and 〃regretted；〃 and had 〃the honor to renew assurances of their
most distinguished consideration〃； but all in vain。 At last the
matter had been presented by Secretary Olney to the government of
Lord Salisbury； and now； to Mr。 Olney's main despatch on the
subject； Lord Salisbury； after some months' delay； had returned
an answer declining arbitration； and adding that international
law did not recognize the Monroe Doctrine。 This seemed even more
than cool； for； when one remembered that the Monroe Doctrine was
at first laid down with the approval of Great Britain； that it
was glorified in Parliament and in the British press of 1823 and
the years following； and that Great Britain had laid down
policies in various parts of the earth； especially in the
Mediterranean and in the far East； which she insisted that all
other powers should respect without reference to any sanction by
international law； this argument seemed almost insulting。
So it evidently seemed to Mr。 Cleveland。 Probably no man less
inclined to demagogism or to a policy of adventure ever existed；
but as he looked over the case his American instincts were
evidently aroused。 He saw then； what is clear to everybody now；
that it was the time of all times for laying down； distinctly and
decisively； the American doctrine on the subject。 He did so； and
in a message to Congress proposed that； since Great Britain would
not intrust the finding of a boundary to arbitration； the United
States should appoint commissioners to find what the proper
boundary was； and then； having ascertained it； should support its
sister American republic in maintaining it。
Of course the President was attacked from all sides most
bitterly； even those called 〃the better element〃 in the
Republican and Democratic parties； who had been his ardent
supporters； now became his bitter enemies。 He was charged with