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journal of a voyage to lisbon-第19章

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folks。  But I was always a fool; as I says to my husband; and

never knows which side my bread is buttered of。  And yet; to be

sure; your honor shall be my warning not to be bit so again。

Some folks knows better than other some how to make their bills。

Candles! why yes; to be sure; why should not travelers pay for

candles?  I am sure I pays for my candles; and the chandler pays

the king's majesty for them; and if he did not I must; so as it

comes to the same thing in the end。  To be sure I am out of

sixteens at present; but these burn as white and as clear; though

not quite so large。  I expects my chandler here soon; or I would

send to Portsmouth; if your honor was to stay any time longer。

But when folks stays only for a wind; you knows there can be no

dependence on such!〃   Here she put on a little slyness of

aspect; and seemed willing to submit to interruption。  I

interrupted her accordingly by throwing down half a guinea; and

declared I had no more English money; which was indeed true; and;

as she could not immediately change the thirty…six shilling

pieces; it put a final end to the dispute。  Mrs。 Francis soon

left the room; and we soon after left the house; nor would this

good woman see us or wish us a good voyage。  I must not; however;

quit this place; where we had been so ill…treated; without doing

it impartial justice; and recording what may; with the strictest

truth; be said in its favor。



First; then; as to its situation; it is; I think; most

delightful; and in the most pleasant spot in the whole island。

It is true it wants the advantage of that beautiful river which

leads from Newport to Cowes; but the prospect here extending to

the sea; and taking in Portsmouth; Spithead; and St。 Helen's;

would be more than a recompense for the loss of the Thames

itself; even in the most delightful part of Berkshire or

Buckinghamshire; though another Denham; or another Pope; should

unite in celebrating it。  For my own part; I confess myself so

entirely fond of a sea prospect; that I think nothing on the land

can equal it; and if it be set off with shipping; I desire to

borrow no ornament from the terra firma。  A fleet of ships is; in

my opinion; the noblest object which the art of man hath ever

produced; and far beyond the power of those architects who deal

in brick; in stone; or in marble。



When the late Sir Robert Walpole; one of the best of men and of

ministers; used to equip us a yearly fleet at Spithead; his

enemies of taste must have allowed that he; at least; treated the

nation with a fine sight for their money。  A much finer; indeed;

than the same expense in an encampment could have produced。  For

what indeed is the best idea which the prospect of a number of

huts can furnish to the mind; but of a number of men forming

themselves into a society before the art of building more

substantial houses was known?  This; perhaps; would be agreeable

enough; but; in truth; there is a much worse idea ready to step

in before it; and that is of a body of cut…throats; the supports

of tyranny; the invaders of the just liberties and properties of

mankind; the plunderers of the industrious; the ravishers of the

chaste; the murderers of the innocent; and; in a word; the

destroyers of the plenty; the peace; and the safety; of their

fellow…creatures。



And what; it may be said; are these men…of…war which seem so

delightful an object to our eyes?  Are they not alike the support

of tyranny and oppression of innocence; carrying with them

desolation and ruin wherever their masters please to send them?

This is indeed too true; and however the ship of war may; in its

bulk and equipment; exceed the honest merchantman; I heartily

wish there was no necessity for it; for; though I must own the

superior beauty of the object on one side; I am more pleased with

the superior excellence of the idea which I can raise in my mind

on the other; while I reflect on the art and industry of mankind

engaged in the daily improvements of commerce to the mutual

benefit of all countries; and to the establishment and happiness

of social life。  This pleasant village is situated on a gentle

ascent from the water; whence it affords that charming prospect I

have above described。  Its soil is a gravel; which; assisted with

its declivity; preserves it always so dry that immediately after

the most violent rain a fine lady may walk without wetting her

silken shoes。  The fertility of the place is apparent from its

extraordinary verdure; and it is so shaded with large and

flourishing elms; that its narrow lanes are a natural grove or

walk; which; in the regularity of its plantation; vies with the

power of art; and in its wanton exuberancy greatly exceeds it。



In a field in the ascent of this hill; about a quarter of a mile

from the sea; stands a neat little chapel。  It is very small; but

adequate to the number of inhabitants; for the parish doth not

seem to contain above thirty houses。



At about two miles distant from this parish lives that polite and

good lady to whose kindness we were so much obliged。  It is

placed on a hill whose bottom is washed by the sea; and which

from its eminence at top; commands a view of great part of the

island as well as it does that of the opposite shore。  This house

was formerly built by one Boyce; who; from a blacksmith at

Gosport; became possessed; by great success in smuggling; of

forty thousand pound。  With part of this he purchased an estate

here; and; by chance probably; fixed on this spot for building a

large house。  Perhaps the convenience of carrying on his

business; to which it is so well adapted; might dictate the

situation to him。  We can hardly; at least; attribute it to the

same taste with which he furnished his house; or at least his

library; by sending an order to a bookseller in London to pack

him up five hundred pounds' worth of his handsomest books。  They

tell here several almost incredible stories of the ignorance; the

folly; and the pride; which this poor man and his wife discovered

during the short continuance of his prosperity; for he did not

long escape the sharp eyes of the revenue solicitors; and was; by

extents from the court of Exchequer; soon reduced below his

original state to that of confinement in the Fleet。  All his

effects were sold; and among the rest his books; by an auction at

Portsmouth; for a very small price; for the bookseller was now

discovered to have been perfectly a master of his trade; and;

relying on Mr。 Boyce's finding little time to read; had sent him

not only the most lasting wares of his shop; but duplicates of

the same; under different titles。



His estate and house were purchased by a gentleman of these

parts; whose widow now enjoys them; and who hath improved them;

particularly her gardens; with so elegant a taste; that the

painter who would assist his imagination in the composition of a

most exquisite landscape; or the poet who would describe an earthly

paradise; could nowhere furnish themselves with a richer pattern。



We left this place about eleven in the morning; and were again

conveyed; with more sunshine than wind; aboard our ship。



Whence our captain had acquired his power of prophecy; when he

promised us and himself a prosperous wind; I will not determine;

it is sufficient to observe that he was a false prophet; and that

the weathercocks continued to point as before。  He would not;

however; so easily give up his skill in prediction。  He

persevered in asserting that the wind was changed; and; having

weighed his anchor; fell down that afternoon to St。  Helen's;

which was at about the distance of five miles; and whither his

friend the tide; in defiance of the wind; which was most

manifestly against him; softly wafted him in as many hours。



Here; about seven in the evening; before which time we could not

procure it; we sat down to regale ourselves with some roasted

venison; which was much better dressed than we imagined it would

be; and an excellent cold pasty which my wife had made at Ryde;

and which we had reserved uncut to eat on board our ship; whither

we all cheerfully exulted in being returned from the presence of

Mrs。 Francis; who; by the exact resemblance she bore to a fury;

seemed to have been with no great propriety settled in paradise。



Friday; July 24。As we passed by Spithead on the preceding

evening we saw the two regiments of soldiers who were just

returned from Gibraltar and Minorca; and this day a lieutenant

belonging to one of them; who was the captain's nephew; came to

pay a visit to his uncle。  He was what is called by some a very

pretty fellow; indeed; much too pretty a fellow at his years; for

he was turned of thirty…four; though his address and conversation

would have become him more before he had reached twenty。  In his

conversation; it is true; there was something military enough; as

it consisted chiefly of oaths; and of the great action
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