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folks。 But I was always a fool； as I says to my husband； and
never knows which side my bread is buttered of。 And yet； to be
sure； your honor shall be my warning not to be bit so again。
Some folks knows better than other some how to make their bills。
Candles！ why yes； to be sure； why should not travelers pay for
candles？ I am sure I pays for my candles； and the chandler pays
the king's majesty for them； and if he did not I must； so as it
comes to the same thing in the end。 To be sure I am out of
sixteens at present； but these burn as white and as clear； though
not quite so large。 I expects my chandler here soon； or I would
send to Portsmouth； if your honor was to stay any time longer。
But when folks stays only for a wind； you knows there can be no
dependence on such！〃 Here she put on a little slyness of
aspect； and seemed willing to submit to interruption。 I
interrupted her accordingly by throwing down half a guinea； and
declared I had no more English money； which was indeed true； and；
as she could not immediately change the thirty…six shilling
pieces； it put a final end to the dispute。 Mrs。 Francis soon
left the room； and we soon after left the house； nor would this
good woman see us or wish us a good voyage。 I must not； however；
quit this place； where we had been so ill…treated； without doing
it impartial justice； and recording what may； with the strictest
truth； be said in its favor。
First； then； as to its situation； it is； I think； most
delightful； and in the most pleasant spot in the whole island。
It is true it wants the advantage of that beautiful river which
leads from Newport to Cowes； but the prospect here extending to
the sea； and taking in Portsmouth； Spithead； and St。 Helen's；
would be more than a recompense for the loss of the Thames
itself； even in the most delightful part of Berkshire or
Buckinghamshire； though another Denham； or another Pope； should
unite in celebrating it。 For my own part； I confess myself so
entirely fond of a sea prospect； that I think nothing on the land
can equal it； and if it be set off with shipping； I desire to
borrow no ornament from the terra firma。 A fleet of ships is； in
my opinion； the noblest object which the art of man hath ever
produced； and far beyond the power of those architects who deal
in brick； in stone； or in marble。
When the late Sir Robert Walpole； one of the best of men and of
ministers； used to equip us a yearly fleet at Spithead； his
enemies of taste must have allowed that he； at least； treated the
nation with a fine sight for their money。 A much finer； indeed；
than the same expense in an encampment could have produced。 For
what indeed is the best idea which the prospect of a number of
huts can furnish to the mind； but of a number of men forming
themselves into a society before the art of building more
substantial houses was known？ This； perhaps； would be agreeable
enough； but； in truth； there is a much worse idea ready to step
in before it； and that is of a body of cut…throats； the supports
of tyranny； the invaders of the just liberties and properties of
mankind； the plunderers of the industrious； the ravishers of the
chaste； the murderers of the innocent； and； in a word； the
destroyers of the plenty； the peace； and the safety； of their
fellow…creatures。
And what； it may be said； are these men…of…war which seem so
delightful an object to our eyes？ Are they not alike the support
of tyranny and oppression of innocence； carrying with them
desolation and ruin wherever their masters please to send them？
This is indeed too true； and however the ship of war may； in its
bulk and equipment； exceed the honest merchantman； I heartily
wish there was no necessity for it； for； though I must own the
superior beauty of the object on one side； I am more pleased with
the superior excellence of the idea which I can raise in my mind
on the other； while I reflect on the art and industry of mankind
engaged in the daily improvements of commerce to the mutual
benefit of all countries； and to the establishment and happiness
of social life。 This pleasant village is situated on a gentle
ascent from the water； whence it affords that charming prospect I
have above described。 Its soil is a gravel； which； assisted with
its declivity； preserves it always so dry that immediately after
the most violent rain a fine lady may walk without wetting her
silken shoes。 The fertility of the place is apparent from its
extraordinary verdure； and it is so shaded with large and
flourishing elms； that its narrow lanes are a natural grove or
walk； which； in the regularity of its plantation； vies with the
power of art； and in its wanton exuberancy greatly exceeds it。
In a field in the ascent of this hill； about a quarter of a mile
from the sea； stands a neat little chapel。 It is very small； but
adequate to the number of inhabitants； for the parish doth not
seem to contain above thirty houses。
At about two miles distant from this parish lives that polite and
good lady to whose kindness we were so much obliged。 It is
placed on a hill whose bottom is washed by the sea； and which
from its eminence at top； commands a view of great part of the
island as well as it does that of the opposite shore。 This house
was formerly built by one Boyce； who； from a blacksmith at
Gosport； became possessed； by great success in smuggling； of
forty thousand pound。 With part of this he purchased an estate
here； and； by chance probably； fixed on this spot for building a
large house。 Perhaps the convenience of carrying on his
business； to which it is so well adapted； might dictate the
situation to him。 We can hardly； at least； attribute it to the
same taste with which he furnished his house； or at least his
library； by sending an order to a bookseller in London to pack
him up five hundred pounds' worth of his handsomest books。 They
tell here several almost incredible stories of the ignorance； the
folly； and the pride； which this poor man and his wife discovered
during the short continuance of his prosperity； for he did not
long escape the sharp eyes of the revenue solicitors； and was； by
extents from the court of Exchequer； soon reduced below his
original state to that of confinement in the Fleet。 All his
effects were sold； and among the rest his books； by an auction at
Portsmouth； for a very small price； for the bookseller was now
discovered to have been perfectly a master of his trade； and；
relying on Mr。 Boyce's finding little time to read； had sent him
not only the most lasting wares of his shop； but duplicates of
the same； under different titles。
His estate and house were purchased by a gentleman of these
parts； whose widow now enjoys them； and who hath improved them；
particularly her gardens； with so elegant a taste； that the
painter who would assist his imagination in the composition of a
most exquisite landscape； or the poet who would describe an earthly
paradise； could nowhere furnish themselves with a richer pattern。
We left this place about eleven in the morning； and were again
conveyed； with more sunshine than wind； aboard our ship。
Whence our captain had acquired his power of prophecy； when he
promised us and himself a prosperous wind； I will not determine；
it is sufficient to observe that he was a false prophet； and that
the weathercocks continued to point as before。 He would not；
however； so easily give up his skill in prediction。 He
persevered in asserting that the wind was changed； and； having
weighed his anchor； fell down that afternoon to St。 Helen's；
which was at about the distance of five miles； and whither his
friend the tide； in defiance of the wind； which was most
manifestly against him； softly wafted him in as many hours。
Here； about seven in the evening； before which time we could not
procure it； we sat down to regale ourselves with some roasted
venison； which was much better dressed than we imagined it would
be； and an excellent cold pasty which my wife had made at Ryde；
and which we had reserved uncut to eat on board our ship； whither
we all cheerfully exulted in being returned from the presence of
Mrs。 Francis； who； by the exact resemblance she bore to a fury；
seemed to have been with no great propriety settled in paradise。
Friday； July 24。As we passed by Spithead on the preceding
evening we saw the two regiments of soldiers who were just
returned from Gibraltar and Minorca； and this day a lieutenant
belonging to one of them； who was the captain's nephew； came to
pay a visit to his uncle。 He was what is called by some a very
pretty fellow； indeed； much too pretty a fellow at his years； for
he was turned of thirty…four； though his address and conversation
would have become him more before he had reached twenty。 In his
conversation； it is true； there was something military enough； as
it consisted chiefly of oaths； and of the great action