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the king's proclamation…day； and consequently a holiday at the
custom…house； the captain could not clear his vessel till the
Thursday； for these holidays are as strictly observed as those in
the popish calendar； and are almost as numerous。 I might add
that both are opposite to the genius of trade； and consequently
contra bonum publicum。
To go on board the ship it was necessary first to go into a boat；
a matter of no small difficulty； as I had no use of my limbs； and
was to be carried by men who； though sufficiently strong for
their burden； were； like Archimedes； puzzled to find a steady
footing。 Of this； as few of my readers have not gone into
wherries on the Thames； they will easily be able to form to
themselves an idea。 However； by the assistance of my friend； Mr。
Welch； whom I never think or speak of but with love and esteem； I
conquered this difficulty； as I did afterwards that of ascending
the ship； into which I was hoisted with more ease by a chair
lifted with pulleys。 I was soon seated in a great chair in the
cabin； to refresh myself after a fatigue which had been more
intolerable； in a quarter of a mile's passage from my coach to
the ship； than I had before undergone in a land…journey of twelve
miles； which I had traveled with the utmost expedition。
This latter fatigue was； perhaps； somewhat heightened by an
indignation which I could not prevent arising in my mind。 I
think； upon my entrance into the boat； I presented a spectacle of
the highest horror。 The total loss of limbs was apparent to all
who saw me； and my face contained marks of a most diseased state；
if not of death itself。 Indeed； so ghastly was my countenance；
that timorous women with child had abstained from my house； for
fear of the ill consequences of looking at me。 In this condition
I ran the gauntlope （so I think I may justly call it） through
rows of sailors and watermen； few of whom failed of paying their
compliments to me by all manner of insults and jests on my
misery。 No man who knew me will think I conceived any personal
resentment at this behavior； but it was a lively picture of that
cruelty and inhumanity in the nature of men which I have often
contemplated with concern； and which leads the mind into a train
of very uncomfortable and melancholy thoughts。 It may be said
that this barbarous custom is peculiar to the English； and of
them only to the lowest degree； that it is an excrescence of an
uncontrolled licentiousness mistaken for liberty； and never shows
itself in men who are polished and refined in such manner as
human nature requires to produce that perfection of which it is
susceptible； and to purge away that malevolence of disposition of
which； at our birth； we partake in common with the savage
creation。 This may be said； and this is all that can be said；
and it is； I am afraid； but little satisfactory to account for
the inhumanity of those who； while they boast of being made after
God's own image； seem to bear in their minds a resemblance of the
vilest species of brutes； or rather； indeed； of our idea of
devils； for I don't know that any brutes can be taxed with such
malevolence。 A sirloin of beef was now placed on the table； for
which； though little better than carrion； as much was charged by
the master of the little paltry ale…house who dressed it as would
have been demanded for all the elegance of the King's Arms； or
any other polite tavern or eating…house！ for； indeed； the
difference between the best house and the worst is； that at the
former you pay largely for luxury； at the latter for nothing。
Thursday； June 27。This morning the captain； who lay on shore at
his own house； paid us a visit in the cabin； and behaved like an
angry bashaw； declaring that； had he known we were not to be
pleased； he would not have carried us for five hundred pounds。
He added many asseverations that he was a gentleman； and despised
money； not forgetting several hints of the presents which had
been made him for his cabin； of twenty； thirty； and forty
guineas； by several gentlemen； over and above the sum for which
they had contracted。 This behavior greatly surprised me； as I
knew not how to account for it； nothing having happened since we
parted from the captain the evening before in perfect good humor；
and all this broke forth on the first moment of his arrival this
morning。 He did not； however； suffer my amazement to have any
long continuance before he clearly showed me that all this was
meant only as an apology to introduce another procrastination
（being the fifth） of his weighing anchor； which was now postponed
till Saturday； for such was his will and pleasure。
Besides the disagreeable situation in which we then lay； in the
confines of Wapping and Rotherhithe； tasting a delicious mixture
of the air of both these sweet places； and enjoying the concord
of sweet sounds of seamen； watermen； fish…women； oyster…women；
and of all the vociferous inhabitants of both shores； composing
altogether a greater variety of harmony than Hogarth's
imagination hath brought together in that print of his； which is
enough to make a man deaf to look atI had a more urgent cause
to press our departure； which was； that the dropsy； for which I
had undergone three tappings； seemed to threaten me with a fourth
discharge before I should reach Lisbon； and when I should have
nobody on board capable of performing the operation； but I was
obliged to hearken to the voice of reason； if I may use the
captain's own words； and to rest myself contented。 Indeed； there
was no alternative within my reach but what would have cost me
much too dear。 There are many evils in society from which people
of the highest rank are so entirely exempt； that they have not
the least knowledge or idea of them； nor indeed of the characters
which are formed by them。 Such； for instance； is the conveyance
of goods and passengers from one place to another。 Now there is
no such thing as any kind of knowledge contemptible in itself；
and； as the particular knowledge I here mean is entirely
necessary to the well understanding and well enjoying this
journal； and； lastly； as in this case the most ignorant will be
those very readers whose amusement we chiefly consult； and to
whom we wish to be supposed principally to write； we will here
enter somewhat largely into the discussion of this matter； the
rather； for that no ancient or modern author （if we can trust the
catalogue of doctor Mead's library） hath ever undertaken it； but
that it seems （in the style of Don Quixote） a task reserved for
my pen alone。
When I first conceived this intention I began to entertain
thoughts of inquiring into the antiquity of traveling； and； as
many persons have performed in this way （I mean have traveled） at
the expense of the public； I flattered myself that the spirit of
improving arts and sciences； and of advancing useful and
substantial learning； which so eminently distinguishes this age；
and hath given rise to more speculative societies in Europe than
I at present can recollect the names ofperhaps； indeed； than I
or any other； besides their very near neighbors； ever heard
mentionedwould assist in promoting so curious a work； a work
begun with the same views； calculated for the same purposes； and
fitted for the same uses； with the labors which those right
honorable societies have so cheerfully undertaken themselves； and
encouraged in others； sometimes with the highest honors； even
with admission into their colleges； and with enrollment among
their members。
From these societies I promised myself all assistance in their
power； particularly the communication of such valuable
manuscripts and records as they must be supposed to have
collected from those obscure ages of antiquity when history
yields us such imperfect accounts of the residence； and much more
imperfect of the travels； of the human race； unless； perhaps； as
a curious and learned member of the young Society of Antiquarians
is said to have hinted his conjectures； that their residence and
their travels were one and the same； and this discovery （for such
it seems to be） he is said to have owed to the lighting by accident
on a book； which we shall have occasion to mention presently；
the contents of which were then little known to the society。
The king of Prussia； moreover； who； from a degree of benevolence
and taste which in either case is a rare production in so
northern a climate； is the great encourager of art and science； I
was well assured would promote so useful a design； and order his
archives to be searched on my behalf。 But after well weighing
all these advantages； and much meditation on the order of my
work； my whole design was subverted in a moment by hearing of the
discovery just mentioned to have been made by the young
antiquarian； who； from the most ancient record in the world
（though I don't find the society are all agreed