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Both ancient and modern ware； the latter in large variety； may be seen and purchased at the Hopi House。
Navaho Silverware。 Of equal interest is the making of silverware by the Navaho peshlikai； or silversmith； whose primitive forge is in the first room entered at the Hopi House。
Fondness for Silver。 The innate desire of a primitive people for personal adornment early led the pueblo Indians to a use of metal。 When the Spaniards and Mexicans came among them； the iron； brass and copper of the conquerors were soon added to the dried seeds； shell beads； pieces of turquoise and coral they had hitherto used。 But silver has ever been their favorite metallic ornament。 Long ago they formed an ideal in the Spanish don or Mexican vaquero； with his personal apparel adorned with silver； his horse's bridle trapped out with silver belts； buckles and buttons； and his saddle and its equipment studded with silver nails and other fanciful expressions of adornment。 From the Mexican and the pueblo Indian he rapidly picked up the necessary knowledge； and practice soon gave the skill to fashion the silver into every desired shape。
Navahos Used Silver Three Centuries Ago。 Cushing contends that the Zunis knew how to smelt metals before the Spanish conquest； but the statement is strongly disputed。 There can be no question； however； but that the large use of silver ornaments by both pueblo and Navaho Indians dates from three hundred and fifty years ago； after Coronado's conquistadores had found out that this was no land of gold and precious metals； as was Peru。
In almost every pueblo of Arizona and New Mexico； and in many a Navaho hogan； one may find the primitive silversmith at work。 There is no silversmith's shop； but generally in a corner of the quaint pueblo house； or in an adjunct to the Navaho hogan； the worker quietly pursues his important avocation； for in a community whose members have no other metallic arts； the silversmith is an important man； and sees to it that his profession is regarded with the high dignity it deserves。
Method of Working。 With a rude mud forge；the bellows of which； though primitive； is as ingenious as any patent bellows invented；a hammer； a piece of railroad steel for an anvil； a three…cornered file； one or two punches； a crucible which he understands how to make as well as the best metallurgist in the land； and a bit of solder； he goes to work。 Sometimes he runs his melted Mexican dollars into primitive moulds； again he hammers the metal into the shape he requires。 He creates rings； some of them containing rude pieces of turquoise； garnet； etc。； well designed bracelets； belt…disks； large and small silver buttons （some of which are admirably adapted for belt…buckles）； earrings； necklaces； crosses； beads； bangles； clasps of silver for bridles； etc。
Ornaments and jewelry。 The two most cherished objects are the waist…belt and the necklace； though far more rings and bracelets are to be found。 But this is on account of the great expense of the former。 The waist belts generally consist of eight moulded plates； either circular or oval； with filleted border and scalloped edges； each plate weighing from two to four ounces。 These are punctured in the center； or a small band is soldered to the back； to admit of their being threaded upon a long and narrow belt of leather； the ends of which are fastened with a buckle。 Both men and women wear these； and they are highly prized as ornaments by both sexes。 The necklaces are equally in vogue； the designs being principally hollow beads； crosses； and ornaments representing pomegranate blossoms。 The silver bridle is also an object of great esteem。 It is made of curiously designed； heavy clasps of silver； fastened upon leather； with numberless buttons shaped from coins。 Many of these weigh not less than fifteen ounces； and some as high as forty； hence their value can be readily estimated。
CHAPTER XIX。 The Hopis And Their Snake Dance
A Hopi Religious Rite。 Interesting among Indians； because of their unique houses on the summits of high mesas； reached only by precipitous trails； the Hopi of northern Arizona always have possessed peculiar fascination on account of their thrilling religious rite； known as the Snake Dance； an account of which follows。*
* This Sacred Dance and the life of the Hopi Indians is more fully set out in the author's larger work 〃The Indians of the Painted Desert Region〃。
The Painted Desert。 The region they live in； named the Province of Tusayan by the Spanish conquistadores； three hundred and fifty years ago； is a region of color。 The rocks of which the mesas are built； the sand of the desert； the peculiarly carved buttes which abound on every hand； are all strikingly colored； with such a variety of hues and tints that one does not wonder at the namethe Painted Desertwhich is applied to the country through which we must travel to reach Hopiland。
A Saddle Trip from El Tovar。 The traveler who wishes to visit this fascinating and unique region can arrange for full equipment at El Tovar。 The trip will be a saddle one and all outfits will have to be transported on pack burros。
The Old Hopi Trail。 The road followed is practically the line of the old Hopi trail。 On the way out； the interested traveler may visit Grand View Point and Hotel； Hance's Old Camp and Trail； the Red Canyon Trail； Moran's； and all the other salient points at the eastern end of the Grand Canyon。 Especially should he stand on faraway Navaho Point； or Desert View。 This is the last of the promontories before the rim of the Canyon turns sharply to the north。 Below it； a vast amphitheatre is opened out with more precipitous walls than at any other part of the Canyon。 The sweep of the river； the mouth of Marble Canyon； the superlative richness of coloring at this point； combined with the unequalled views of the Painted Desert； which lies to the right； or east； afford a place of varied delight； scarce found elsewhere on the whole Canyon rim。
Hopi Cornfields。 Crossing the Little Colorado River at the Tanner Crossing； Moenkopi is visited； and then a day's ride of forty miles over the Painted Desert brings one to the cornfields of the Hopi； as properly they should be called。 For years； they have been known as the Moki； a term of reproach applied in derision by the Navahos。 These cornfields are a wonderful monument to the thrift of the Hopi。 White men would have starved to death in the place； before they would have dreamed of planting corn in such an inhospitable…looking soil。 No springs or streams sufficient to irrigate with； unversed in digging wells and pumping water to the surface； one would have thought an ignorant Indian would have looked elsewhere before planting his corn in such a place。 But the Indian is not so ignorant。 His life； from the cradle to the grave； is one of close observation。 His very existence depends upon its exercise。 He soon discovered； therefore； that there was a natural subsoil irrigation in certain parts of this desert； where his corn would grow。 And grow it does； most wonderfully。 Sometimes water is scarce； then the crop decreases； but generally a good crop may be relied upon。 To hoe his cornfield； a Hopi will often run over the desert forty； fifty； sixty； and even eighty miles in a day。 Sometimes； when the field is near by； the Hopi will ride on his burro。 These cunning creatures are almost a necessity of Indian life。 The streets would seem lonely without them。 It will be noticed occasionally that one of these animals has lost part of his left ear。 This is proof that he is possessed of kleptomaniac proclivities。 If a burro is found stealing corn； he is sentenced to have part of his ear cut off。
Oraibi。 On one of these burros we ride up the steep trail that brings us to the westernmost village of the Hopi； Oraibi。 It is perched high on the mesa top； several hundred feet above the valley； and the various trails are steep and rugged。 Some of them are sheer climbs； up which no animal other than man can go。 There are six other villages； three of them ten miles； and the other three about twenty miles； to the east of Oraibi。 They； also； are perched upon high mesas； which thrust themselves； like long fingers； into the sandy desert。 On the middle mesa are Shungopavi； Mashongnovi and Shipaulovi； while on the eastern mesa are Walpi； Sichomovi and Hano。
Sandstone Houses。 All the houses are built of rude pieces of sandstone； cemented with mud。 Steps are made of larger slabs of stone； and often the only means of access is by long ladders； the poles of which tower high above the buildings； and give a singularly picturesque aspect to the village。 In the olden days； there were neither doors nor windows in the first story of the houses。 They were built so purposely； since they must serve for fortresses as well as homes。
Hopi Wafer。 Bread。 One is often likely to find a woman engaged in making piki。 Piki is a wafer bread； peculiar to the Hopis。 It is finer than the finest tortilla of the Mexican； or oatcake of the Scotch。 No biscuit maker in America or England can make a cracker one…half so thin。 The thinnest cracker is thick compared with piki； and yet the Hopi make it with marvelous dexterity。 Cornmeal batter in a crude earthenware bowl； is the material； a smooth