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smoothed over by a folded futon； or wadded cotton quilt； and I was
then fourteen inches above the animal's back； with my feet hanging
over his neck。 You must balance yourself carefully； or you bring
the whole erection over； but balancing soon becomes a matter of
habit。 If the horse does not stumble； the pack…saddle is tolerable
on level ground； but most severe on the spine in going up hill； and
so intolerable in going down that I was relieved when I found that
I had slid over the horse's head into a mud…hole； and you are quite
helpless； as he does not understand a bridle； if you have one； and
blindly follows his leader； who trudges on six feet in front of
him。
The hard day's journey ended in an exquisite yadoya； beautiful
within and without； and more fit for fairies than for travel…soiled
mortals。 The fusuma are light planed wood with a sweet scent； the
matting nearly white； the balconies polished pine。 On entering； a
smiling girl brought me some plum…flower tea with a delicate almond
flavour； a sweetmeat made of beans and sugar； and a lacquer bowl of
frozen snow。 After making a difficult meal from a fowl of much
experience； I spent the evening out of doors； as a Japanese
watering…place is an interesting novelty。
There is scarcely room between the lake and the mountains for the
picturesque village with its trim neat houses； one above another；
built of reddish cedar newly planed。 The snow lies ten feet deep
here in winter； and on October 10 the people wrap their beautiful
dwellings up in coarse matting； not even leaving the roofs
uncovered； and go to the low country till May 10； leaving one man
in charge； who is relieved once a week。 Were the houses mine I
should be tempted to wrap them up on every rainy day！ I did quite
the wrong thing in riding here。 It is proper to be carried up in a
kago； or covered basket。
The village consists of two short streets； 8 feet wide composed
entirely of yadoyas of various grades； with a picturesquely varied
frontage of deep eaves； graceful balconies； rows of Chinese
lanterns； and open lower fronts。 The place is full of people； and
the four bathing…sheds were crowded。 Some energetic invalids bathe
twelve times a day！ Every one who was walking about carried a blue
towel over his arm； and the rails of the balconies were covered
with blue towels hanging to dry。 There can be very little
amusement。 The mountains rise at once from the village； and are so
covered with jungle that one can only walk in the short streets or
along the track by which I came。 There is one covered boat for
excursions on the lake； and a few geishas were playing the samisen；
but； as gaming is illegal； and there is no place of public resort
except the bathing…sheds； people must spend nearly all their time
in bathing； sleeping； smoking； and eating。 The great spring is
beyond the village； in a square tank in a mound。 It bubbles up
with much strength； giving off fetid fumes。 There are broad boards
laid at intervals across it； and people crippled with rheumatism go
and lie for hours upon them for the advantage of the sulphurous
steam。 The temperature of the spring is 130 degrees F。； but after
the water has travelled to the village； along an open wooden pipe；
it is only 84 degrees。 Yumoto is over 4000 feet high； and very
cold。
IRIMICHI。Before leaving Yumoto I saw the modus operandi of a
〃squeeze。〃 I asked for the bill； when； instead of giving it to me；
the host ran upstairs and asked Ito how much it should be； the two
dividing the overcharge。 Your servant gets a 〃squeeze〃 on
everything you buy； and on your hotel expenses； and； as it is
managed very adroitly； and you cannot prevent it； it is best not to
worry about it so long as it keeps within reasonable limits。 I。 L。
B。
LETTER X
Peaceful MonotonyA Japanese SchoolA Dismal DittyPunishmentA
Children's PartyA Juvenile BelleFemale NamesA Juvenile Drama…
…NeedleworkCalligraphyArranging FlowersKanayaDaily Routine…
…An Evening's EntertainmentPlanning RoutesThe God…shelf。
IRIMICHI； Nikko； June 23。
My peacefully monotonous life here is nearly at an end。 The people
are so quiet and kindly； though almost too still； and I have
learned to know something of the externals of village life； and
have become quite fond of the place。
The village of Irimichi； which epitomises for me at present the
village life of Japan； consists of about three hundred houses built
along three roads； across which steps in fours and threes are
placed at intervals。 Down the middle of each a rapid stream runs
in a stone channel； and this gives endless amusement to the
children； specially to the boys； who devise many ingenious models
and mechanical toys； which are put in motion by water…wheels。 But
at 7 a。m。 a drum beats to summon the children to a school whose
buildings would not discredit any school…board at home。 Too much
Europeanised I thought it； and the children looked very
uncomfortable sitting on high benches in front of desks； instead of
squatting； native fashion。 The school apparatus is very good； and
there are fine maps on the walls。 The teacher； a man about twenty…
five； made very free use of the black…board； and questioned his
pupils with much rapidity。 The best answer moved its giver to the
head of the class； as with us。 Obedience is the foundation of the
Japanese social order； and with children accustomed to
unquestioning obedience at home the teacher has no trouble in
securing quietness； attention； and docility。 There was almost a
painful earnestness in the old…fashioned faces which pored over the
school…books； even such a rare event as the entrance of a foreigner
failed to distract these childish students。 The younger pupils
were taught chiefly by object lessons； and the older were exercised
in reading geographical and historical books aloud； a very high key
being adopted； and a most disagreeable tone； both with the Chinese
and Japanese pronunciation。 Arithmetic and the elements of some of
the branches of natural philosophy are also taught。 The children
recited a verse of poetry which I understood contained the whole of
the simple syllabary。 It has been translated thus：…
〃Colour and perfume vanish away。
What can be lasting in this world？
To…day disappears in the abyss of nothingness；
It is but the passing image of a dream； and causes only a slight
trouble。〃
It is the echo of the wearied sensualist's cry； 〃Vanity of
vanities； all is vanity；〃 and indicates the singular Oriental
distaste for life； but is a dismal ditty for young children to
learn。 The Chinese classics； formerly the basis of Japanese
education； are now mainly taught as a vehicle for conveying a
knowledge of the Chinese character； in acquiring even a moderate
acquaintance with which the children undergo a great deal of
useless toil。
The penalties for bad conduct used to be a few blows with a switch
on the front of the leg； or a slight burn with the moxa on the
forefingerstill a common punishment in households； but I
understood the teacher to say that detention in the school…house is
the only punishment now resorted to； and he expressed great
disapprobation of our plan of imposing an added task。 When twelve
o'clock came the children marched in orderly fashion out of the
school grounds； the boys in one division and the girls in another；
after which they quietly dispersed。
On going home the children dine； and in the evening in nearly every
house you hear the monotonous hum of the preparation of lessons。
After dinner they are liberated for play； but the girls often hang
about the house with babies on their backs the whole afternoon
nursing dolls。 One evening I met a procession of sixty boys and
girls； all carrying white flags with black balls； except the
leader； who carried a white flag with a gilded ball； and they sang；
or rather howled； as they walked； but the other amusements have
been of a most sedentary kind。 The mechanical toys； worked by
water…wheels in the stream； are most fascinating。
Formal children's parties have been given in this house； for which
formal invitations； in the name of the house…child； a girl of
twelve； are sent out。 About 3 p。m。 the guests arrive； frequently
attended by servants； and this child； Haru； receives them at the
top of the stone steps； and conducts each into the reception room；
where they are arranged according to some well…understood rules of
precedence。 Haru's hair is drawn back； raised in front； and
gathered into a double loop； in which some scarlet crepe is
twisted。 Her face and throat are much whitened； the paint
terminating in three points at the back of the neck； from which all
the short hair has been carefully extracted with pincers。 Her lips
are slightly touched with red paint； and her face looks like that
of a cheap doll。 She wears a blue； flowered silk kimono； with
sleeves touching the ground； a blue girdle lined with scarlet； and
a fold of scarlet crepe lies between her painted neck and her
kimono。 On her little feet she wears white tabi； socks of cotton
cloth； with a separate place for the great toe； so as to allow the
scarlet…covered thongs of the finely lacquered clogs； which she
pu