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judge of the effect that he is producing。 The shaving the face
till it is smooth and shiny； and the cutting； waxing； and tying of
the queue with twine made of paper； are among the evening sights of
Nikko。
Lacquer and things curiously carved in wood are the great
attractions of the shops； but they interest me far less than the
objects of utility in Japanese daily life； with their ingenuity of
contrivance and perfection of adaptation and workmanship。 A seed
shop； where seeds are truly idealised； attracts me daily。 Thirty
varieties are offered for sale； as various in form as they are in
colour； and arranged most artistically on stands； while some are
put up in packages decorated with what one may call a facsimile of
the root； leaves； and flower； in water…colours。 A lad usually lies
on the mat behind executing these very creditable picturesfor
such they arewith a few bold and apparently careless strokes with
his brush。 He gladly sold me a peony as a scrap for a screen for 3
sen。 My purchases； with this exception； were necessaries onlya
paper waterproof cloak； 〃a circular；〃 black outside and yellow
inside； made of square sheets of oiled paper cemented together； and
some large sheets of the same for covering my baggage； and I
succeeded in getting Ito out of his obnoxious black wide…awake into
a basin…shaped hat like mine； for； ugly as I think him； he has a
large share of personal vanity； whitens his teeth； and powders his
face carefully before a mirror； and is in great dread of sunburn。
He powders his hands too； and polishes his nails； and never goes
out without gloves。
To…morrow I leave luxury behind and plunge into the interior；
hoping to emerge somehow upon the Sea of Japan。 No information can
be got here except about the route to Niigata； which I have decided
not to take； so； after much study of Brunton's map； I have fixed
upon one place； and have said positively； 〃I go to Tajima。〃 If I
reach it I can get farther； but all I can learn is； 〃It's a very
bad road； it's all among the mountains。〃 Ito； who has a great
regard for his own comforts； tries to dissuade me from going by
saying that I shall lose mine； but； as these kind people have
ingeniously repaired my bed by doubling the canvas and lacing it
into holes in the side poles； ｛9｝ and as I have lived for the last
three days on rice； eggs； and coarse vermicelli about the thickness
and colour of earth…worms； this prospect does not appal me！ In
Japan there is a Land Transport Company； called Riku…un…kaisha；
with a head…office in Tokiyo； and branches in various towns and
villages。 It arranges for the transport of travellers and
merchandise by pack…horses and coolies at certain fixed rates； and
gives receipts in due form。 It hires the horses from the farmers；
and makes a moderate profit on each transaction； but saves the
traveller from difficulties； delays； and extortions。 The prices
vary considerably in different districts； and are regulated by the
price of forage； the state of the roads； and the number of hireable
horses。 For a ri； nearly 2。5 miles； they charge from 6 to 10 sen
for a horse and the man who leads it； for a kuruma with one man
from 4 to 9 sen for the same distance； and for baggage coolies
about the same。 ＇This Transport Company is admirably organised。 I
employed it in journeys of over 1200 miles； and always found it
efficient and reliable。＇ I intend to make use of it always； much
against Ito's wishes； who reckoned on many a prospective 〃squeeze〃
in dealings with the farmers。
My journey will now be entirely over 〃unbeaten tracks；〃 and will
lead through what may be called 〃Old Japan；〃 and as it will be
natural to use Japanese words for money and distances； for which
there are no English terms； I give them here。 A yen is a note
representing a dollar； or about 3s。 7d。 of our money； a sen is
something less than a halfpenny； a rin is a thin round coin of iron
or bronze； with a square hole in the middle； of which 10 make a
sen； and 1000 a yen； and a tempo is a handsome oval bronze coin
with a hole in the centre； of which 5 make 4 sen。 Distances are
measured by ri； cho； and ken。 Six feet make one ken； sixty ken one
cho； and thirty…six cho one ri； or nearly 2。5 English miles。 When
I write of a road I mean a bridle…path from four to eight feet
wide； kuruma roads being specified as such。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XI
Comfort disappearsFine SceneryAn AlarmA Farm…houseAn
unusual CostumeBridling a HorseFemale Dress and Ugliness
BabiesMy MagoBeauties of the KinugawaFujiharaMy Servant
Horse…shoesAn absurd Mistake。
FUJIHARA； June 24。
Ito's informants were right。 Comfort was left behind at Nikko！
A little woman brought two depressed…looking mares at six this
morning； my saddle and bridle were put on one； and Ito and the
baggage on the other； my hosts and I exchanged cordial good wishes
and obeisances； and； with the women dragging my sorry mare by a
rope round her nose； we left the glorious shrines and solemn
cryptomeria groves of Nikko behind； passed down its long； clean
street； and where the In Memoriam avenue is densest and darkest
turned off to the left by a path like the bed of a brook； which
afterwards； as a most atrocious trail； wound about among the rough
boulders of the Daiya； which it crosses often on temporary bridges
of timbers covered with branches and soil。 After crossing one of
the low spurs of the Nikkosan mountains； we wound among ravines
whose steep sides are clothed with maple； oak； magnolia； elm； pine；
and cryptomeria； linked together by festoons of the redundant
Wistaria chinensis； and brightened by azalea and syringa clusters。
Every vista was blocked by some grand mountain； waterfalls
thundered； bright streams glanced through the trees； and in the
glorious sunshine of June the country looked most beautiful。
We travelled less than a ri an hour； as it was a mere flounder
either among rocks or in deep mud； the woman in her girt…up dress
and straw sandals trudging bravely along； till she suddenly flung
away the rope； cried out； and ran backwards； perfectly scared by a
big grey snake； with red spots； much embarrassed by a large frog
which he would not let go； though； like most of his kind； he was
alarmed by human approach； and made desperate efforts to swallow
his victim and wriggle into the bushes。 After crawling for three
hours we dismounted at the mountain farm of Kohiaku； on the edge of
a rice valley； and the woman counted her packages to see that they
were all right； and without waiting for a gratuity turned homewards
with her horses。 I pitched my chair in the verandah of a house
near a few poor dwellings inhabited by peasants with large
families； the house being in the barn…yard of a rich sake maker。 I
waited an hour； grew famished； got some weak tea and boiled barley；
waited another hour； and yet another； for all the horses were
eating leaves on the mountains。 There was a little stir。 Men
carried sheaves of barley home on their backs； and stacked them
under the eaves。 Children； with barely the rudiments of clothing；
stood and watched me hour after hour； and adults were not ashamed
to join the group； for they had never seen a foreign woman； a fork；
or a spoon。 Do you remember a sentence in Dr。 Macgregor's last
sermon？ 〃What strange sights some of you will see！〃 Could there
be a stranger one than a decent…looking middle…aged man lying on
his chest in the verandah； raised on his elbows； and intently
reading a book； clothed only in a pair of spectacles？ Besides that
curious piece of still life； women frequently drew water from a
well by the primitive contrivance of a beam suspended across an
upright； with the bucket at one end and a stone at the other。
When the horses arrived the men said they could not put on the
bridle； but； after much talk； it was managed by two of them
violently forcing open the jaws of the animal； while a third seized
a propitious moment for slipping the bit into her mouth。 At the
next change a bridle was a thing unheard of； and when I suggested
that the creature would open her mouth voluntarily if the bit were
pressed close to her teeth； the standers…by mockingly said； 〃No
horse ever opens his mouth except to eat or to bite；〃 and were only
convinced after I had put on the bridle myself。 The new horses had
a rocking gait like camels； and I was glad to dispense with them at
Kisagoi； a small upland hamlet； a very poor place； with poverty…
stricken houses； children very dirty and sorely afflicted by skin
maladies； and women with complexions and features hardened by
severe work and much wood smoke into positive ugliness； and with
figures anything but statuesque。
I write the truth as I see it； and if my accounts conflict with
those of tourists who write of the Tokaido and Nakasendo； of Lake
Biwa and Hakone； it does not follow that either is inaccurate。 But
truly this is a new Japan to me； of which no books have given me
any idea； and it is not fairyland。 The men may be said to wear
nothing。 Few of the women wear anything but a short petticoat
wound tightly round them； or blue cotton trousers very tight in the
legs and baggy at the top； with a blue cotton garment